Hmm...well I never have managed to do things the easy way. So, basically it looks like if I can't get to the subfloor from underneath, I'll have to pull up a tile and figure it out from there. (Should be really interesting trying to keep Inspector Gadget and the Intrepid Explorer -- who's intrepid only when he's *behind* the Inspector -- from investigating the excavation.) Are there specs for minimum support requirements? And are there any considerations for tile choice? (I'm thinking clearance ceramic tile at Lowes.) With ceramic tile and epoxy grout what would be my best bets for subflooring? 3/4" plywood topped with cement backerboard? Thanks! Lorree

Hi Patricia and thank you for your comment. However, I did not post on the same subject. My other question is separate as I indicated in this post. If you'd like to check out the other post I welcome your feedback on that grout issue as well. And, as I said, we've been happy with our contractors work overall. That's why discovering this mistake and his lack of communication about it surprised us so much. 90% of the job is done and done well, so I'm not too concerned about that. I know he'll come for his last check, and I expect that he will fix it per what we request. I am seeking advice on exactly what to ask him to do from those with tiling/tile-fixing experience. Replace the whole tile on each piece that is chipped/or has the accidental hole? Or, is there an acceptable enamel-type fix anyone would recommend? I am the painter on this project and 2 of these tiles are next to the ceiling. I'm worried about damage to the new drywall, ceiling, and time I don't have to paint again as hubby and I are working full time during this closure. So, rather than flippant calls for shame, why not thoughtful ones about what to ask my contractor to do?

Hi everyone- tried sponges and hot water it’s not coming off. I’d like to hire a professional for help. Is a tile installation or tile cleaning company best? I’d like to have them clean and reseal. Thanks!

If it only has to last until the check clears than mounting tile to wallboard is fine. My experience isn't comprehensive but in five of five houses I've done extensive restoration work on over the last four decades tile on drywall had failed in less than 20-30 years in each case, 10 years where mastic was used to adhere it. Tile on a masonry base in the same houses hadn't failed. For me the extra $20-30 and half hour work for a cement backer board is a no-brainer. I don't enjoy setting tile so much that I want to have to do it more than once in the same place. Granted I'm unusual in worrying about the next guy.