I wonder if our GC's proposal is overkill. We've just installed new PEX radiant heat panels over existing slab on grade, and now are considering having tile rather than 5/8" engineered wood above the radiant panels (Rehau Raupanel, 8" OC). The Raupanel installation specs diagram for tile installation shows the following layers: - ceramic tile (1/4" typical) - cement or mortar compound w/ mesh or rubber membrane (1/4" typical) [e.g. Schulter Ditra?] - Raupanel + PEX + furring strips - vapor barrier - concrete slab Our GC claims we need to: -tear out the Raupanel and furring strips. -have loops of Pex with a concrete overpour, -then plywood base, a 1/2" backerboard, - and finally the tile in thinset (I think). What's going on? I think the GC said this is for sufficient isolation from expansion, and the tear-out needed to keep the assembly from being almost 1" higher than the adjacent room (5/8" Owens Plankfloor above Raupanel). But some of the GC's solutions have been un-nece$$arily labor-inten$ive, so I've become alert to padded proposals. BTW, His partial quote, for the 50 sq ft room is: "Demo the existing wood furring strips and float the floor and install the owner provided tile. Total cost 2,100.00 (Note the base will be wood provided in an alternate price)" Does that make sense? What should I do next? ------ PS. Should we even be doing tile, vs. e.g., linoleum, if we may have a litter-box and/or pet food bowls in the room? I started imagining urine odor in grout....

Thanks again. When I said the tiles went up one at a time, I literally mean that. He built some brace to hold them up and waiting until each dried before adding the next one. It was very time consuming, but worth it. As far as lining things up, I am the "engineer" of that. We looked for specific tiles that were sizes that would give us what we wanted. For instance, the small pieces on the hearth are about 3 or 4 inches wide - but they have a bull nose - and we wanted that, otherwise there would have been a raw edge there. We had an estimate of over $1,000 just for someone to build the surround - after we had taken down the brick, which was the absolute worst part! So we started investigating - we always think if someone else can do it, we might be able to as well - and then starting drawing out plans based on sizes we found. It took forever and a Sunday to find the fireplace screen. But we are happy with the results. Of course, then I start second-guessing myself -- hmm, maybe I should have gotten the beige color, now I am tied into blue, but then again I am always second-guessing my decisions! Thanks again for the compliments. I will tell DH at dinner tonight!

In warmer climates as SoCal and Texas, travertine works well outside..covered or uncovered. I have travertine on my patio that is open to all the weather elements. Here in Texas we have winter 2 months out of the year and it might dip into the teens or 20s. No issues with my travertine that has been installed for several years. The travertine that is installed in the photo is a versailles pattern (also called a french pattern). Looks like Durango travertine but could also be called Crema Imperial, Ivory or Classic. Several names for just 1 color. Being that you're in SoCal, most likely the cost of travertine is highly expensive. You can find glazed porcelain tiles that mimic the look but may not have all the sizes. Pricing may also be better. Visit actual tile showrooms to look around and get advise. Avoid big box stores as Home Depot or Lowes.

What is missing from you house is foundation plantings. Get a plan together an plant in the fall after the heat wave is over. Plant far enough away from the foundation to allow the plants to mature. Paint the secondary door the same dark brown. There is so little trim showing, I would leave it brown along the roofline. I would leave the brick wall directly in front of the empty. It will give it more emphasis, But plant some low growing bushes along the walkway. Next year, in early spring add annuals for long lasting color. Can you paint the window frames and the frame around the door? If yes, the I would paint that trim a creamy off white, a really pale tan. Or if the windows are an tan color you can match that and paint the brown trim I think I see around the windows. They will show better. The two small windows could use shutters - one half the size of the window. Paint them a gray blue or black. Paint the front door the same blue.