Will chimney with 45% angle work???
emmachas_gw Shaffer
16 years ago
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Comments (13)
grannabelle
16 years agobrix
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Mount light at 45 degree angle in skylight
Comments (3)There are special mounting blocks made for exterior sconces that attach to angled surfaces, ie shingles or clapboards. Mounted to a perpendicular surface, the would hold the light at an angle. I forget the name but any electrician would know....See MoreChimney crown re-mortar bid - overcharged?
Comments (14)Thank you for good feedback, I appreciate the different points of view (well, kinda different ;) and even an unequivocal statement with the word "NEVER" in it. I never see those anymore! Re: "I didn't think so." - But I *would* offer them hot tea...and mittens... Jokes aside, you have a good point re: time. I would actually be less concerned about the upper end of the estimate of time, but to have a basic idea of minimum time involved in accomplishing a job would be great to give the customer a clearer sense of *labor* involved, since from the customer perspective labor is really what they are paying for. I know, I know, you have everything from office assistant to gas to insurance on the overhead side of things, but we don't see that, and don't really care because it does not *directly* contribute to the solution of the repair problem, whereas people doing stuff on the roof does. So from the customer's point of view, shelling out $750 for 2 hours of work can strike a chord. Especially if the repair addressed only half of the issue, and did not address the water that was already collected under the torch down material, which continues to cause condensation.. Speaking of condensation - this is the major issue now, it seems. The contractor poked a small hole in the torch down material (bitumen?) and pressed on it gently, water came right out. I have no attic, there is 6 inches between roof and ceiling, filled with insulation (foam, I believe). My understanding is when you have a sealed space (now even more sealed!) with water already inside, it can't really dry - it will simply evaporate, and fall back out as condensate. Which is exactly what is causing the moisture buildup on the sheetrock under the insulation, and seeps through the paint and ruins the ceiling. Do you have any suggestions on how to tackle the 'internal' moisture issue? I am guessing opening the roof up from the top and trying to dry it out? or trying to get in from the inside, removing insulation and drying it out? There is only a small opening in the ceiling barely enough to stick shoulders through, though...highly inconvenient. Any advice much appreciated..I am obviously dealing with a roof issue for the first time....See MoreFunky kitchen angle design help!
Comments (17)I've been thinking about your angled kitchen, and how the wall opposite the pass through will be a focal point from the DR, so I've tried to center the range in this plan. I also deleted the nook and gave you counter seating at the window. It might not be as comfortable as a cushioned nook, but sufficient for a visitor to perch while you're cooking. (and a nice place to have a quick breakfast.) The area marked 'snacks' could also be a coffee center. In this iteration, this fridge is the focal point, but an alternate location is on the left wall, possibly recessed. In that case the focal point could be a baking counter with open shelves, or a pretty dish hutch. The advantage to this plan is that the range hood can be vented outside. Is your current hood vented or recirculating? This one also has a couple of stools tucked under the island, instead of a nook. Coffee can be beside the MW. Same plan, but with the clean-up sink on the top wall, which gets you a 2nd prep area, and the island can be used as a work table. Disadvantage to this plan is that the fridge is farther away from the prep/cooking areas. The next plan leaves the fridge on the top wall, puts clean-up on the left, has seating at the island, and allows the hood to be vented to the exterior. In this version the triangle pantry is slightly smaller, so keeping the tall pantry adds storage. Island can be all storage drawers on the side facing fridge. This is a departure from the centered island, with seating at the end. DW and trash have been switched, so that it's easier to load dishes into the island drawers. And this last version centers the range, and puts your prep sink on the right side, with clean-up in the island. I've read that if a stages sink is used on the perimeter counter, upper cabinets should be omitted, to leave more head space. My choice would be function over form with the range vented to the exterior, and counter seating rather than a nook. I hope I haven't overwhelmed you (and frustrated your architect), but these are all basically the same bullet plan with triangle pantry. They all have pros and cons--just something for you to think about, and when you've made a decision, please post again, so that the folks here can help you fine tune your plans....See MoreNeed help calculating crown molding angles and miter/bevel settings?
Comments (6)I would have loved to cut it nested but the crown is 6 3/8 and to big to be cut on a jog or in my miter saw. That's te only reason I'm cutting it flat. I actually tried the setting do posted previously and they did not work so I'm back to square one. I have the whole bottoms floor done except for these 3pcs I am still trying to figure out the angles and setting on. When replacing the baseboards I had the same problem but I just used the old piece I was replacing and put those in my miter saw and copied the angles and it was easy. :)...See Moreemmachas_gw Shaffer
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