I wouldn't try to match or mix wood floors, I'd replace all with new.

Fix the sagging floor, this maybe as simple as adding another layer of plywood, maybe worse. Have local professional give you an opinion. If its that bad, I'd be suprised if your not already having problems with the laminate.

Laminate or any flooring should run under the toilet.

I'd probably prefer prefinished for a kitchen. But you'd still have to exercise more care than if it was vinyl or even laminate.

If you going to invest that much in a wood floor, I'd start training yourself into not tracking stuff into the house and vacuuming it regularily. Wood is less forgiving than laminate flooring.

good luck

Chris - I have seen no real problem with the sagging other than it is disconcerning when walking on it with bare feet. I don't know if you would notice in shoes, but in bare feet the dip is noticable. I don't think it noticably flexes - it just has low spots.

I asked one contractor about it and he seemed to be telling me that I was better living with it than trying to fix it. Putting another layer of subfloor on would not be a very attractive solution, because my ceilings are already low - 7'6" - and I don't want to make them any lower. I especially don't want to make them lower in the kitchen where it impacts how tall my upper cabinets can be.

Is the prefinished engineered wood less tough than the laminated planks of fake wood? I had the impression that the finish on both is the same - aluminum oxide.

Paul , the dips have to have to be addressed somehow. It does not matter if the dips are solid or spongy, they are still low spots. To get a serviceable engineered wood or laminate floor down the substrate has to be flat within 3/16" in a 10' radius. Thats pretty flat so the finished floor will not depress causing the joinery to be compromised.

What are the options for fixing the subfloor? I believe normally, and in my case, the subfloor extends under the walls. I don't see how it could be replaced.

The basement is below, and unfinished, so the floor is accessible from below, except that there are a lot of mechanicals down there. Would it work to fit cross braces between the trusses and shim up the floor there?

This unit is 20 years old, but the original architect and builder is still present and building. So I guess maybe I should ask him if there have been other occurrences of this, and what has been done about it.

I'm reviving this. I have been having discussions with contractors and still haven't started the project yet.

My likely contractor sent me to a flooring showroom. (Patriot Hardwood Floors & Supply.) He said they were the wholesale suppliers for the metro Boston area. I don't know if I actually believe that, but they seemed to have a decent selection to view.

The guy I was talking to there didn't know all that much, but he pulled in a rep from Mercier who happened to be in the office then. I discussed my sagging floors with him. He insisted that I needed to:
- level out the sags, with a leveling compound
- then put another layer of plywood down, bringing the total up to 1 1/4", or at least 1".

As I noted earlier, my ceilings are very low, so every little bit counts. I'll already lose 1/4"+ just going from laminate to engineered - more for solid wood. I certainly understand the leveling. Do I really need to add on top of that?

At the showroom I was looking at my options. I want a very light look. Maple seems the best. And I want it to not have much yellow cast. Of the prefinished, unstained, there was noticable difference between grades and brands.

The stuff they had that looked the best to me was Mercier - either the engineered or prefinished solid. They both have the micro-bevels. I would really prefer not to have those, but the only option for that seems to be site finished. I do think the toughness of the prefinished will be an advantage for me. I've gotted mixed impressions of the issues with the micro-bevels - my concern is "stuff" collecting in them and being harder to clean up. (I also don't like to look so much, but I think I can get used to that.)

I did a search here and discovered boxers raising some concern about problems with their quality. The samples looked fine - better than the other stuff there. Expecially in the case of the engineered - they had a 7-ply product with the top layer being 4mm. Seemed far better than anything else. Also, they claim an anti-yellowing UV blocker. At the least their clear finish seemed less yellow than the alternatives.

What other brands of prefinished (engineered or not) would be viable alternatives to Mercier?

Finally, are the warranties that come with this stuff actually worth anything? I was looking at the Mercier warranty for the engineered stuff. It is for 35 years, which sounds impressive. But then I see it doesn't apply unless the finish has failed on at least 10% of the floor. I imagine that less that 10% of the average floor is in major traffic areas, or exposed to any special condition, such as sunlight. Also, I notice that they expect you to account for a 5% cutting loss and another 5% "normal defects" in what you order, and won't replace unless you exceed that.

Are these terms normal? Is it a scam?

Thanks in advance. I'm counting on you guys - I haven't found any other good source of advice on this subject.