I have this sheet vinyl: www.tarkettna.com/Default.aspx?tabid=71&sku=38041 It is a Tarkett FiberFloor LifeTime� with Urethane finish, no paper on the bottom, all solid 0.120" plastic. We already progressed in the work. We nailed down with 2" ring shand nails in some loose higher levels of hardwood planks, than laid down a 1/4" Luan underlayment from Lowes to even up leftover small differences. It was not my idea, however I agreed to it in order to speed up trogress time. We stapled the Luan down with Bostitch 7/8" 18ga staples about 6" apart. The staples went through the luan layer (should be a hawaian mahagony...), but stopped at the middle layer of the underlayment. We also added a second 1/4" layer of IntegraPly, which is recommended by Tarkett. We nailed it down with 1-1/4" ring shank nail about 4" apart with abouth 2" @ edges. Oh mine, I can't move my thumb today, not speaking about the whole hand and part of my arm being so sore, I can't do anything on the floor right now. I will be checking the nails with spatula in the evening. I don't want them to stick out, which they shouldn't, however with so many nails, we could miss some. The floor is 9x21 feet large. I mid be using the Henry 547 Unipro Universal Patch & Skimcoat together with Hendry 546 Patch Additive tomorrow as I did not order anything from the web. I have too much of the Hendry patch, the smallest bag they sold. It was $50 together, however I can't find a small container of already pre-mixed patching to cut on the cost of material and ease of use. I should start purchasing the material much longer than one week ago. I am frustrated with the material limitations of our local hardware stores. It takes time to drive from store to store plus we experienced some very unhelpufull folks at Lowes more than once. I also checked our local flooring stores, however didn�t even carry the special divergent point staples. And they told us they use Luan for underlayment.

Most of the name brand manufactures I've looked at offer different grades of sheet vinyl from budget price to top quality. The length of warranty (5 year, 10 year, 15 year, etc) determines price range. Its really a matter of finding the pattern you like in your price range. You can go to the different manufactures websites and request brochures of their flooring and that can help cut down on the shopping legwork. Just be sure to look at it in person in a store as they do look a little different than the brochures. For a floor that may see a lot of traffic and abuse, I think the low gloss or ultra low gloss finish will show the least wear over the long haul. Plus they're not supposed to be waxed - just sweep and mop.

Amen, Glenn. I started when I was 12 helping Dad on weekends and evenings when Mom worked. At 15, I helped during evening weekends, and summer vacations (and getting paid!) when he went out on his own. At 17, I went to the Armstong School of Resilient Installation to learn all that I could, which was before certifications. They confirmed shool completions back then but didnt "certify" as they do now. All my life I have been taught on the job and Dad pulled me aside when other co-workers and his bosses did things inappropriately to save time and cut corners, telling me this isnt the way you should do this, but we do what we have to when we work for someone else. Every facet from pattern scribing inlaid resilient sheet in a room full of pipes and old radiators, all the way down to professionally and expertly installing vinyl/rubber cover base corners. Nothing was too big or too small to do right. At 21, me and Dad had a falling out in business. He had his own busienss now doign commercial and residential subcontract work and was becomming like so many others we laughed at and despised for doing shoddy work to make a buck, then I went out on my own. I am not maligning my Father. I love Him and he taught me pretty much evrything I know, but I couldnt do the work he was asking me to do anylonger when I knew it wasnt right. He had changed. Business had changed him. Money and time was becomming more important that job quality. Business certainly isnt easy, but a time comes when it's either right or its wrong, with little middle ground. Whhen professionals hit that crossroad, then take the wrong path, it changes them, and each time they elect that improper path, it makes the next crossroads easier and easier to take the wrong path, until the day comes that money and time means more than giving people who trust use with their work a professional job. I am an advocate of installer and buiness educataion no matter how they go about obtaining it, whether that be on the job, through a mentorship, union apprentiship, manufacturer or distributor training session, or certification. If certifications are the only way they can get proper training, they shoud go get it. Consumers need to step up and make a fuss when anything isnt exactly how they want it to be. We live in a low cost wallmart and home depot world, where as long as the price is right, they can live with almost anything. As an employer, I instill in my men and women the same installation and customer service values my Dad originally instilled in me, and I demand that on every job. I believe much of the talent has moved to the commercial spectrum too. Its where the money is at. Interesting you should say that (about commercial work getting the good men). When I left Dad, I went all commercial for about 10-11 years before we started opening up stores. Did alot of traveling and made alot of money. Now we bring those values and quality to the residential sector. In the end if something isnt done right, it doesnt matter why.

Sooz, click flooring is not "waterproof". The surface of each plank, and the substrate in the body of the plank and click mechanism are waterproof. But you are correct, some moisture can leak down through the click mechanism especially if you flood the floor (wet mopping etc). But it's a very small amount and I wouldn't think it would damage the underlying subfloor. My concern would be the development of mold, or smell if it's pet urine flooding the floor! The benefit to that kind of floor is it's a bit more forgiving of a slightly rough or unlevel subfloor (sheet flooring is thinner and will transmit subfloor flaws) and it's warmer underfoot because it's thicker. It also can be popped up, cleaned and dried, and reinstalled if you have a major flood problem (sewage backup for example). If you don't anticipate numerous pet accidents or flooding consider a good quality click vinyl such as Coretec. There are numerous Coretec threads on houzz. And they do have tile look options.