We are building a traditional colonial home (new construction) in northern New Jersey. The floors have already been installed (5" red oak boards). Our contract with the general contractor permits us to source the contractor to finish the hardwood floors (we're not thrilled with the flooring contractor our builder typically uses). We have about 2,800 sf of boards to sand, stain and finish. We're considering using Bona or Loba water-based finish (which we understand to be high-end products). Can the community recommend a high-end flooring contractor in the northern New Jersey area? Thanks!

SJ McCarthy, our contract is stated we are responsible for the materials and we pay for the labor. Unfortunately we never met nor discuss with the owner but only discussed in details ( in the proposal) with the project manager who is the solely the carpenter.) We just found out there were a lot of the DETAILS from the proposal were not explained (per the PM,but who knows) in detail to the owner or almost like "bait and switch" - for example like item #2- he spent more time because the owner did not get him another helper to help him- I told him this should not be the customer's expenses-Anyway we are willing to pay for it. The owner was offering to renew and establish a new contract from the original contact ( we felt that he cherry picking the items from the proposal, we marked them up then again he decided not to included) for the unfinished works . Once he agreed in our 2nd meeting (another example: he agreed tiling our study room to be included from the original contact in our 1st meeting then when he write the REVISED CONTRACT- he wants to charge us ), but again we are facing the same old stories-he tried to change the wording. We were burned so many times and now we diligently review line by line knowing the owner's personality. He kept saying he lived by the contract-then I told him then he should honor the low estimated to install our engineering hardwood floor including removing the carpet-in the end he says he would honor but he did not including the cost in the new REVISED contract which we add into it - we are so tired with his games. So now we put a contingency - once we agree with the new contract, no more additional expenses from the previous work was done- and we do agree that we need to be notified first and need both signatures for additional expenses from the new contract. and no more point finger of "not included" since we have discussed in detailed and are in the contract. The new addition has a hardwood floor installed - with Dri-core. Once hardwood floor was installed- they are some areas squeak- we were told by PM -put a marked up then he would fasten without explaining to us-these would be additional ridiculous charges (PM told the owner, too-we told PM that they should explain it to us- ) Regarding the installing the engineering hardwood floor is for our existing rooms(concrete slabs that has plywood already)- we are told just to put a vapour barrier. Is it possible to let me know what brands for the glues have to be moisture resistant ($2/sf) or moisture PROOF ($3/sf).? The manufacture instruction suggests to use Franklin Tongue and Groove adhesive (cross linking polyaliphactic emulsion glue) www.titebond.com -any suggestions? This Applachian engineering hardwood floor - FLOATING only needs GLUE between the wood (tongue and groove per the manufacture manual ) then would be FLOAT - this is not to be GLUE DOWN on our concrete floor (could be glue down if necessary but not in our case). Here is the website- on PAGE 9 http://www.appalachianflooring.com/uploads/general/documents/engineered-installation-guide.pdf We trust the PM and we pay for it- we just want to move on and complete the project-It has been almost 10 months. We have to do what we have to do to protect ourselves now- The owner refuses to install our towel bar in our new shower without charging us, and we told him we will take care them by ourselves. I will update this post and hoping for a better solution. Thank you

Hardwood floor without a sub floor added to the joists needs to run perpendicular to the joists so you need to know what is under the existing hardwood and posting an actual floor plan here will be a good way to get answers.

Concrete can have issues with 'flat' and level. In fact it is one of the worst substrates to get to sit level. It takes +++work (subfloor prep) to get it ready for a rigid floor - like hardwood. Even if this is a new build, concrete prep needs to be done. If this is a renovation, I'm guessing carpet was removed? Carpet hides HORRIBLE subfloor conditions. How much did you pay for the subfloor preparation? For concrete I like to see a range (listed AS A RANGE on the quote) from $2-$4/sf. Yes. I know that looks pretty big. It should be. Concrete is a PITA to level/flatten. Now onto the door...if there was carpet there, I'm going to guess the door used to catch the carpet just a snick. But the door didn't care because the carpet CRUSHED under the door and it was no big deal. Now you have a rigid, non-compressing, hardwood floor that stops the door in it's tracks. That's an issue. You need to trim the door or rip up the hardwood and grind down the concrete. Those are your two choices. As you can imagine, the door is easier.