W and S: Water (aged and filtered for several days) changed each day during treatment or every second day (less then 5 days so far into treatment) I have an old Dr. Innes book (way back in 40's) which uses salt and as a child that's all I ever used, even for one gourami (of two) that leap out of the tank and when I came back from school, they were dried on one side like leaves. did experiment and treated one with salt other without, fungus and death on one other recovered and lived. (I did try to catch up with fungus one but to far gone as I am not intential cruel but did want to see how well salt works) (I have an old water cure book from Zen monastary, and salt water is great when you have stomach or food poisoning, too much drinking so on, drink and purge then when done swallow a little, stops everything instantly) This research shows this and that is what worries me a bit - that the dot might be something else... (The most common way of diagnosing ich is by close observation of the infected fishes. The presence of small, (.5 to 1.0 mm) white dots scattered about on the fishes' skin. This is not always proof that the fish is infected with ich as several other infections can have a similar appearance. Proof positive can be obtained by removing one of the spots and observing it under a microscope. Ich has a small micronucleus and a prominant crescent-shaped macronucleus.) Well thanks once again for all of your marvelous help and time will tell (wish I had a microscope)... best Sherry

Gosh was so looking forward to knowing what that mark was hoping for a date. I've seen it on other Int'l pieces (etsy,ebay, Ruby Lane)with claims it was a date mark with such a broad range 1910-40s just thought I'd ask antiquesilver, she'd know & do appreciate your time looking it up. My dish I assumed from maybe within 10 year from when Mom rec'd from her Aunt. Here are the pics lindac. Am I in the right ballpark? 40's? 3.5" tall, weight of 22oz thicker wall yet similar to Paul Revere style bowls without the curved out lip. None of my .925silver P Rever bowls are this thick (wish they were). I had to leave the lid on because the flash keeps going off-even though it's shut off and the room lighting is fine. Turn off room light & then the flash wont come on. GETTING A NEW CAMERA TOMORROW, this one is junk! By the way lindac, the 78 try attempt earlier was not using the zoom, camera just kept flipping to 'auto focus' and blurred it out.LOL My old Yashica NEVER gave me the fits this one has.

riley605: Sorry, long again. I am very familiar with your feelings as I have seen this many times. When homeowners fight long and hard to build their home, the new or nothing approach is common in these situations. Usually its an emotional flinch reaction and if you understand the entire process, that will go away. Living in temporary housing no matter how nice will have its challenges. Your family will probably have some squabbles over this. There will probably be sleepless nights and a ton of hand wringing while this is going on. There will be times with a ton of stress as this whole process will be a major disruption in your lives and a major pain in the @$$. Heck the material selections for roofing, flooring, paint colors, tile, fixtures, etc. etc. etc. is alone very time consuming for a big home. The material selections are the easy part of the restoration process also. If it was me, my priority would be to find the "RIGHT" contractor to be my advocate so I get my house "PROPERLY" repaired ASAP. Once the house is repaired, I can get my family back in and our lives back on track. After months or even a year of this, it can wear on people so doing it right and being expeditious should be approach. Without seeing the home (you can send some pictures if you like) its hard to tell if a full tear down is necessary but it doesnt sound like it. A complete demolish and start over will add so much time to the rebuild. Not sure about Oklahoma, but here, if its a total rebuild, I will need site plans, a full blown set of architectural plans with all mechanicals just to get my building permit. If you are just repairing the home, the permit process is much easier. Also if you demolish the home, youll probably need to redo you septic or sewer connections, electrical connections and water connections. The disturbance to the yard is going to be much greater and you could need to redo sidewalks and driveways. All these things can take a ton of time and I dont recommend if its not necessary. Also, if its not necessary, State Farm will have a legitimate reason to delay and fight the costs. State Farm is terrible when it comes to claims IMO. Like a good neighbor my @$$. State Farm is the 600 pound gorilla in the industry and their adjusters are usually not the best. They will try to get by on the cheap if they can. Understand those words "IF THEY CAN". All but a handful of insurance companies will try to settle cheap "IF THEY CAN". Its up to the policy holder to make sure the insurance company gives a fair and proper settlement. How do you do that? First option is to hire a "good" public adjuster because a bad PA will only make matters worse. The public adjuster works on your behalf for usually a 10% fee. Sometime the PAs are useful but when they are involved, it takes forever to settle. If you hire a PA, dont count on moving back into your home soon. You may not even start the restoration process for a full year if you hire a PA. PAs can be useful on very large losses or commercial losses where business interruption and complicated policies and legal issues exist but for simple sticks and bricks issues, I feel they are more trouble than they are worth. Second option is to hire a "good" restoration contractor because a bad one can again make matters worse. A "good" restoration contractor is not going to be the cheapest as State Farm would prefer but the insurance company is obligated to pay fair and reasonable pricing, not the cheapest. The contractor will be doing the negotiations with the adjuster for the repairs. Final option is to hire the contractor that State Farm recommends if that do recommend one. During these large storms, they may not recommend someone. If you are in a very rural area, State Farm might be using the best company around because there are no other companies available. Normally I only recommend someone use the insurance companys contractor if the contractor is the only good player in the area or if its a minor claim. The contractor doing the repairs should already be involved. Usually when we do a rebuild, we are on the scene scoping the loss within a day or two. I know there was much damage in the area, but this is even a bigger reason to find your contractor now. If there is a good amount of rebuild work due to the storm, you want to be on the front of line so youre not waiting for the contractor to finish other work first. If you need help finding a good restoration contractor, I can possibly help. I know companies in the industry all around the country and if I don't know a good one in your area, others that I know will. If there is a good one operating in your area, they won't be too hard to find. Who is currently scoping the loss to write the estimate? Is it the adjuster or did the adjuster send in a contractor to write the estimate? In order to properly write a scope of repairs can take a week or two on the site, measuring, photographing and documenting. Then the estimator will have another week or two in front of the computer entering the data. Its not uncommon for a month or two to go by before these scopes (estimates) are properly prepared. Your contractor should be doing this NOW!!!! What the 2-story home roof specialist suggested???? Never heard of that title before but if you are missing parts of the roof in different areas of the house, why would you need to rebuild the second floor if the wall framing is in good shape. If the roof is trussed or even stick built, you can remove the entire roof, reframe it and leave the second floor framing intact if its in not damaged. This project is going to need someone to be the tough guy, pit bull, champion or whatever you want to call it. If your husband is not that person and you are, then you should be handling this. I have had many clients in the past where the Mrs. wears the pants on these projects and I rarely see the husband. There is nothing wrong with this because if the Mr. is not the one who will push and you will, you should be the one in charge of this process. It sounds like you were anyway when the house was built. If the house doesnt need to be demolished, rest assured, a good contractor will rebuild it to your standards and possibly even better then it was prior to the storm. Let me know how I can assist, BTW, was anyone hurt when your home was struck?

For the chimney flue, I'd maybe ask for a credit of $50, or $100 for the cost of the chimney sweep. The leaks and gaps are literally nickel and dime stuff - a few pennies' worth of plumbers tape can fix a tiny leak in a drain, and some caulk or mortar can fix exhaust gaps. And I wouldn't let the deal fall apart over these things either - if the seller is willing to cough up a credit, great, but if not they're just not worth losing the house over. Your first paragraph really has things that are potentially more serious... if the bathroom fan is not already venting out the roof, where does it vent to now? The attic? That's a mold problem just waiting to happen.