we had ours done by a man who paints car bodies...it is wonderful

I would normally wait 24 hours between coats. In humid weather you might want to double that.

Thanks kasefofane,

I think that's part of the problem. I posted this in another forum and learned that latex paint has trouble sticking to galvanized metal, and that's the other issue that's causing the blisters.

It's not going to be easy waiting between coats though, because we won't have a front door.

Denise

I used to paint industrial trade show displays, and paiting metal was the bane of my existance, due to all the toxic fumes which made people quite sick even with respirators. I would agree that water borne paints are not the best choice for metal though they've made improvements in the last few yrs. Specialty paint stores, and good spray equip are the best way to go if you have to do it yourself. I would have more info, but I have mentally blocked the entire metal-priming-painting experience from my brain, except for a little note that says, "never do this again, get someone else to do it."

I'm an amateur, but I too noticed that all the attempts used latex paint. The third attempt was getting there - use an oil-based metal primer. But the paint has to be compatible with the primer, so I think you need an oil-based paint, preferably sprayed on to avoid brush marks. It is a little like car painting, but having someone do that could be expensive. Rustoleum? :-)

When I painted 2 metal doors, I used BM oil-based primer and oil-based top coat using a small foam roller. Both came out beautiful--no problems. I painted them hung so I could do both sides at the same time, but I also had exterior, lockable screen doors so I'd have some semblance of security and could keep the bugs out. If you don't have this, then you may need to cut and hang a piece of 3/4" plywood to act as an interim door because as others have said, you must account for adequate drying time.

Thanks for the great advice everyone! So, the consensus is that oil based paint and primer are the way to go for a metal door. I do not want to strip this son of a b one more time, but the funky looking front door is too hard to ignore.

Fathen, I think I understand why you've blocked the metal painting experiences from your consciousness. I think it must be like child birth, nobody wants to remember something like that.

Denise

Hi akaDenise,
Here what I found about your problem. Hope it's not too late and you didn't give up:) Good luck!
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/doors/maintain/paint1/steel.htm

I have sprayed several metal cabinets outdoors, sunny and dry, but it is impossible to spray outdoor when ther is the least semblence of wind!
Yes, there is a good amount of work, but the results are good. Krylon, Rustoleum are ok.

Ive been painting for 15 years use oil based primer and paint if it is galvanized nuetralize it with vinegar first spraying will give you the best looking finish

So you felt compelled to respond to a 10 year old post.

Krissie I agree. Thanks for keeping this post going because I needed help with my security door. :o)

Hmmmm I suspect Benjamin Moore paints have gotten a lot better over the last 10 years. I painted my all metal door last fall and it is GORGEOUS with 2 coats of semi gloss exterior. It was factory primed when I got it.

Alexa

Oil based primer on galvanized metal is a no no. Latex primer on galvanized metal. Clearly stated on any primer can.

HA! Sounds like its come full circle. Wonder whatever happened with the original poster....?

I have painted metal doors numerous times, using Zinsser 123 primer followed by two coats of any quality latex semi-gloss. ( WITH GREAT RESULTS )

Luv that this old post resurfaced because I find myself today with this dilemma. After spending over 3 1/2 hours "stripping" 2 metal kitchen cabinets, my partner woke up from her siesta and was like "honey - how do you like it?" and at that very instant, I knew all my hard labor had been done for nothing! Of course I will admit, the exhausted messages traveling up to my brain from my lower back and shoulders is jumping for joy because this crap is hard manual labor! My hat goes off to all those painters/stripper/resurfacing workers that do this for a living! WOW! So now off to Home Depot before they close to find the right primer & paint, thanks to everyones input!

Remember this rule of thumb, If the surface you are priming is glossy then use oil base if it is porous then use whatever. You can and should finish coat with latex paint as it has much better fade resistance. Yes you can use latex over oil as long as you double check the labels on the paints

I know the original post is nine years old, but I found this post through a Google search about painting latex over spray paint (which I am encountering in a totally different situation.) I do have experience with painting over spray paint on a metal door 4 years ago (with great success) and we are once again doing this right now, so I thought I would share our technique/product in case someone else is in this situation.

We used (and are once again using) Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel in a CAN (rather than spray paint.) It is an oil-based paint for metal.

When we first used it 4 years ago, we were applying over faded spray paint. Spray paint is pretty durable for an exterior door but can fade terribly. We sanded any rough spots or scratches, and then used a spray primer over any bare metal. We waited a full 24 hours to do any more work. Then, we used a very fine nap small roller to apply the paint, using a small brush where needed (as it was a panelled door.) One coat of a deep red gave beautiful coverage over white primer. We waited a full 24 hours to rehang the door. The door today is as glossy and flawless as it was 4 years ago when we painted it, and it gets full sun, with temps well below freezing in the winter, and hot summers.

This time, we're painting over another spray-painted door (should have done them all at once 4 years ago, but didn't.) We're also painting over a door which has never had anything but the factory-applied primer. In both cases, we are again sanding as needed, priming if needed, and applying the oil-based enamel with a fine nap roller and brush.

This paint is durable, gives great coverage, and is beautiful.

To add - we removed each door completely and painted it set across make-shift saw horses. That way you can almost totally eliminate the issue of drips and it can dry horizontally, resulting in a perfect surface. (Also, since the paint we used and suggest for use is oil-based, this is just much better - no chance of getting it on trim, the floor, etc..)

Since we did not have an exterior screen door, we (as a poster above also suggests) made a frame out of boards, nailed plywood across it, and fitted it in place. We're rotating doors - this can just be nailed in place in the basement since the basement is unfinished (and is a walk-out basement.) The basement door can then be hung in the spot of another door, as we paint that other door.

Glad this thread is still alive because I need to paint my metal front door which is factory primed.

I found this in a PDF put out by Scotts:

"Many contractors are having problems with new, factory primed steel doors peeling relatively soon after painting. When inspected, virtually 100% of the peeled off chips indicate that it is not the topcoat paint peeling from the primer, but the factory primer peeling from the metal door. This peeling virtually 100% of the time occurs when the painter has selected an oil based enamel to go on top of the factory applied primer. ... It is Scott Paint's opinion that many of these primers are not of a sufficient quality to properly bond to the metal surface, and that the leaning processes used by metal door manufacturers may be inadequate or inconsistent and can leave some oils and release agents on the surface to which no paint can properly adhere. Additionally, many of these door manufacturers are now affixing a sticker to the doors stating their warranty policy which requires the use of latex paints, apparently recognizing the inability of their primers to withstand exposure to the solvent in an oil based paint. They will void the warranty if oil based paints are used."

So there you have it. Paint companies are now even recommending latex paints over a factory prime.

Sounds like complete BS to me, the only time I have not seen paint adhere properly is when the door was not properly prepped or the primer was compromised during installaion or construction.