Thread for machine embroidering, can I use...?

15 years ago

I am wondering what different "types" of thread I can use. I know there is machine embroidery thread. What I am wondering is can I use machine quilting thread to embroider? Polyester serger thread? Mettler? Silk? I was at our five and dime and they carry some notions. They only carry gold or silver in machine embroidery thread sheesh! The sales lady said I could use any of the others, that I listed, and that is why they don't carry what I was asking for. Before making a purchase I thought I would check with the experts. Thanks for the help it's greatly appreciated. P.S. I have a Brother SE 350 if that is of importance.

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Comments (6)

sew_clueless_emb2
Original Author
15 years ago
Another P.S. I found a thread on line called Color Twist Poly Thread is that a thread I can use? Thanks again for any and all help!
msmeow
15 years ago
You should use a very fine thread (40 or 50 wt) for machine emb. so that the designs are not too dense. You can use thread made of any fiber; it just needs to be fine. Rayon is shiny but not very strong; some polyesters are shinier than others, but I think poly can melt when ironing it. Cotton will make a design with a matte finish.

You could always buy a spool of each type and experiment with them...see if you like it.

Donna
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Some home machines, especially with that thick thread do not do as well. I have 2 suggestions. First try using that heavy thread ONLY on the bobbin. Use a matching but regular weight thread on top...that way the heavy thread does not have to go thru the tension. This works on many home machines. OR.. Try using regular thread on the top... On the bottom use regular thread, BUT wind on 2 strands of regular thread together. That also usually works well.. You get a heavier thread, it's just easier on the machine. ALSO Jean hems are so heavy... and so harder to do on a regular home type machine. When you roll that fabric over on the side seams...it's so very thick. So Before trying to run that thru a machine, fold the hem in on the sides, lay it on a brick and "pop" it down flat with a hammer. Hammer it down from the "inside" It flattens it nicely and goes thru the machine so much easier
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Thread snapping and needle breaking sounds like wrong threading or wrong setup. All sewing machines needs service now and then. Give the machine some TLC, oil all places, check with the instruction manual if you have it. There are holes to be oiled, lids to be lifted, sometimes loosening of a screw or two is needed. All models and makes are different this way. In general: move all joints and moving parts that touch, it is all about reducing friction. Check for any threads and lint around the bobbin case and feed dogs (unscrew the needle plate if necessary). It's surprising what can gather there over time. Double check that threading is done correctly on both under thread and over thread. Some models are very particular, the bobbin has to go in the right way (the way it is wound). Then check needle, sometimes low quality needles make machines act up, if possible use Schmetz or Orgran during truble shooting. Check that the needle is put in the correct way for your model (flat side either to the right, left or backwards). This should give you an indication of how the needle is threaded, usually straight on when the flat side of the needle is in the back (facing away from you). Make sure the thread doesn't go around the needle, only straight along the shaft through the hole and under the pressure foot and backwards. Needles needs to be replaced quite often, and make sure they are sharp and not bent. Thicker needle for denim and heavier fabrics, finer for thinner fabrics. Always sharp needle unless you sew jersey or knits. This might have solved the problem, but if not: When you have double checked correct insertion of the needle, set the machine to straight stitching. Make sure the needle doesn't hit the needle plate by manually moving the balance wheel. There is most likely a function for moving the needle to the left or to the right, and there is often a mark on the needle plate for correct posistion. Don't drag the fabric at all when trouble shooting, let the feed dogs do all the work. You most likely don't have to adjust under thread tension, but double check that upper thread tension mechanism is clean and lint free. Some models have automatic tension (Bernina had it on their 60s models), others have a manual knob with numbers, models differ a bit that way. If upper thread tension is too high the tread will snap, but most often it is wrong threading or setup when adjusting the tension doesn't solve it. Only bother about this after straight stitching works fine: Then set the machine to zigzag, check the needle movement manually with your hand turning the balance wheel a few times. The needle should go clear of the needle plate and move within the space it is meant for. There is limit to how wide the zigzag stitch can be set (how far the needle arm swing from right to left when sewing).
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stashblaster
15 years ago
Yes, you can use the color twist but I don't think you would want to use that all the time since it has two colors twisted together. I think that you need to look at your projects and decide what type of thread you want. The only designs I've used the twist thread on is my sock monkey designs.

I have an assortment of rayon and polyester thread. I want to purchase some DMC cotton embroidery thread to try some heirloom designs. I've had good luck with Marathon thread. I also bought lots of WonderFil and Hilos Iris polyester thread while at the Chicago quilt show. So far, those brands are doing the job for me. The Viking store that I shop at has Sulky and RA rayon threads. So I do use rayon also.

If you are a beginner, you will probably read that everyone has a preference or should I say their machines have a preference on which thread is used. I have heard differing opinions on the ThreadArt Thread. But honestly, I don't remember if it had to do with embroidery thread or quilting thread.
maryanne12
15 years ago
I have a Brother machine, the Innovis 2500D. I only use machine embroidery thread on my machine 40 weight. I prefer polyester for it's durability but have a few spools of rayon as well. Polyester will not fade and withstands ironing better than rayon. However, you should never place a very hot iron directly on your embroidery design--always use a press cloth. I can tell you the thread brands my machine does not like--Coats & Clark, Sulky, and Floriani. I have tried just about every brand of polyester thread out there and I get the best results with Madeira, Isacord, Marathon. I prefer Madeira because their polyneon, which is their polyester, has more sheen than most other polyester threads. You can order these online and some sites offer free shipping. For the bobbin, you must use special thread that is made for an embroidery machine bobbin. You can wind your own or buy the pre-wound ones. I personally love the pre-wound bobbins. I use FilTec Clear Glide class 15 in my machine.
sew_clueless_emb2
Original Author
15 years ago
Thank you flameon58 and maryanne12 for your help, I guess my thread will be purchased online. I love supporting my local businesses, but I also love saving money and I have seen the prices online are much less than the five and dime. I ordered a set of 26 poly thread from Radiant Thread for $24 shipping incl. It didn't say the brand tho, so I hope my machine likes it. Thanks again for your time and help.
jsm123
15 years ago
We (www.allcustomwear.com) swear by madiera thread, although we use just about every brand. I don't know what the minimum quantity that you have to buy is, but, i bet you could go by a local embroidery shop and just buy some from their inventory. Local shops are always wanting to sell of what they don't think they can use. I hope this suggestion is helpful!

Thread for machine embroidering, can I use...?

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Thread for machine embroidering, can I use...?

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