About the two part epoxy....I've used that as well. I was extremely disappointed with it at the end of the season. I used it for totems, and it worked great. I thought it holding up well the entire summer. When I went to put away the totems for the winter, they came apart. The epoxy made a very clean, smooth peel off...one piece from the next. Be Safe, Rach

I tend to disagree with some of the advice in that link: sand for play boxes is usually too fine, it is specifically good packing sand to make sand castles and sand cookies and similar...if it was coarse, it would not stick together. So that info is, IMO, incorrect. You need to find what is referred to as Horticultural sand - much grittier, with bigger particles. Most of us do not use sand at all (very few ppl do, and they have lots of knowledge and experience with growing succulents). You would be much better off reading info on this forum: ppl giving advice grow (and many, like Jeff above), have been growing succulents for years. Our goal is to keep plants healthy, and #1 is usually drainage problem: mix needs to drain fast/well, and soil with fine sand will not provide drainage. Perlite is available to most. It is good idea to sift or rinse it, to get rid of dust. Pumice is anorher excellent substrate, not always readily available. Chicken grit/small granite gravel, is another ingredient excellent to use. There are many more inorganc ingredients that could be used. MG bagged potting soil is considered not good enough and many will not use it (including me). You could make much better draining mix by using just sifted perlite and Cactus&Succulent soil in 1:1 ratio. If you already have MG soil and want to use it, I would suggest to add even more perlite (60-80%). If you have pumice, use it instead of perlite. Or mix it with perlite, and use much less soil. Adding grit helps a lot. Grains of different ingredients should be approx. of same size: 4-6mm is good. It could be tad smaller, but, IMO, 2mm or less is too fine. Over 6mm gets to be too large. Many succulets do not need very large pots. Try to find out where some grow naturally: most in very 'rocky' areas, with literally no soil (or very little), and many on and in-between the rocks: tight spaces. So size of the pot is not always a problem. Bigger is not neccessarily better :) Repoting is usually not needed every year, and if repotting, it is better to go up just a bit - if plant needs it. Succulents could be grown in large pots - but drainage is even more important. Lots of water retaining soil that will fill up large pot will take very long time to dry up and cause lots of damage. If you provide good drainage (and have space for it), you can grow tiny plant in a wine barrel.... There is ton of info here, from good and experienced growers. Not like on some blogs, that offer incorrect info (at least partially) - often not based on experience, but incorrect info passed down. ETA: I just re-read blog you posted link to: here is contradicting info offered within 2 or 3 paragraphs: ..."The type of sand I buy is just the stuff they sell for use in a sandbox (I buy it at either Home Depot or Lowes)"... ..."Just don’t use sand from the garden, the beach, or a sandbox (you never know what nasties will be in that sand)"... Do not use play sand - either from the bag or a sandbox... Anything will work for short period of time. But if you want to grow succulents for a long time, keep them healthy - try to provide good drainage and good light.

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_dolls/article/0,1789,HGTV_3242_2248412,00.html Is this what you mean???

They'll strike from cuttings with or without flowers on the bush. The flowers being on the bush will hinder your strike rate to a small extent, but not drastically. You could propagate them in Autumn, they'll just take a bit longer to put roots out is all. The process you want to follow for cuttings is pretty simple. Take your cutting material from healthy parts of the plant in the morning before the sun comes up. From your cutting material, select stems about 100mm long from the tips of the plant. Cut just below a bud - this is where the roots will grow from. Tip prune your cutting, this will make a bushier start to the new growth when it gets underway. In a 150mm pot you'll easily fit 10-15 cuttings. Trim the lower leaves of the cutting (about half the cutting), I don't tend to strip them off the stem as you can take the meristematic tissue with it inadvertantly and spoil your chances outright. Use rooting hormone of one type or another, then push the cutting into propagation mix (both available at any nursery). Water in well, don't let it dry out (important!), keep them warm (and humid if possible), and in 4 to 6 weeks you'll have new plants. May be longer in the winter. Then divide and pot-on! I've never grown or seen them being grown indoors, but I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as they get adequate sunlight, warmth and water over the colder months. Good luck! Jim