They cannot be let out because of a few reasons. Yes, they are declawed, so they cannot survive in the wild. They are declawed because they are small and wild. Since they are small, nature has built into them really big claws. Mine had adult house cat sized claws at 4 weeks old. They are also really strong, I mean SUPER strong for their size. It takes a lot of effort to get them off your arm or leg should they 'hug' it. I brought mine home when it was 4 weeks old. At that point his claws were big like an adult house cat's claws. They really love and enjoy spending time / playing with their owner. They love being on their backs too, just waiting to grab your arm with their front arms and kicking with their back legs. OUCH. Their claws will also destroy anything they choose to sharpen them on. They do this a lot, regardless of whether or not they are present. Yet they also cannot be let out because, in nature, bobcats have large natural areas. They will travel, and mark as their own, a square mile or more. They are secretive, too, so chances are you will not see them again. Also, they will not be afraid of humans, so they will approach neighbors. They are not house cats, so will attack other people. The bobcat, and other wild cat 'pets' will bond strongly with their owners. They are extremely loving creatures. But a stranger is an enemy. Period. They will attack them, and probably will go for the face. They can jump 8 feet from a sitting position after all. They will not fear taking livestock and pets as food. This little cat has been known to take down deer. They may also be more likely to interbreed with domestic cats (if they don't kill them), creating 'pixie bobs' and diluting the ever important gene pool. And let us please not forget those people who choose to kill things just because they can (ie not a food source). There are people, believe it or not, who think it is okay, for various reasons, to kill and stuff a bobcat. There are others who think it is okay to kill them only for their belly fur (blond and spotted)- literally throwing away the rest. Pet bobcats are easy targets for this. I myself have had clients (we own several businesses) express their desire to kill bobcats. I find it sickening, personally. As anyone who has a graduate understanding of ecology (hopefully) knows bobcats should not be hunted. Also because they are being killed strictly for the thrill of the kill. Not right. To own a bobcat- or any wild or domesticated animal- is to protect it from other people, and to protect people from it. Hopefully that answers your question.

I found this on another website; Bleach Bottle Bunny Basket* baskets03.jpg (8275 bytes) baskets02.jpg (9536 bytes) baskets01.jpg (7161 bytes) Materials Needed: * 1 large-size empty bleach or vinegar bottle, washed out well (The newer bleach bottles are shorter than they used to be, so adjust pattern accordingly.) * 2 Chenille sticks of any color (one for whiskers, one to attach handle) * Crayons or markers or felt (for eyes, nose, mouth, and ears) * 1 Cotton ball for tail * Glue * Scissors * Small-holed paper punch or other device to make a small hole Directions: Cut off the top of the bottle just below the handle, leaving a completely round bottom half, approximately 6"-7" high. Place pattern for basket around remainder of bottle (the bottom of the bottle will be the bottom of the basket) and trace outline, making note of where holes for handle and whiskers will need to be punched. Remove pattern and carefully cut around the outline. Using the leftovers from step 2, cut a strip approx. 12" x 1" for the handle. Use the handle pattern, if needed, and be sure to note where holes will need to be punched. Carefully punch small holes for the whiskers and handle. To make the whiskers, take one chenille stick and cut it in half. Insert the chenille stick into the whisker holes on either side of the bunny's face. Give the stick a twist or two to secure it. Cut off any excess and fold down the ends about a 1/4" to make them less pokey. Repeat for other set of whiskers. To attach the handle, take the other chenille stick and cut it in half. Insert the stick into the handle holes on either side of the basket (from the outside), then insert them into the corresponding holes in the handle. (Handles should be on the inside of the basket.) Give the stick a twist or two to secure it. Cut off any excess, and fold down the ends about 1/4" to make them less pokey. Repeat for other side of basket. To attach the tail, apply a small bit of glue to the back of the basket and attach a cotton ball. (Fluff out the ball as desired before gluing it on.) Using crayons or markers of your choice (or pieces of felt and glue), draw on the eyes, nose, mouth, and the inside of the ears. Decorate the outside of the basket as desired. Complete the basket by filling with Easter grass, colored eggs, candy, and/or gifts. Write the child's name on the outside of the basket (under the head, on the handle, or on the bottom), if desired. Pattern pieces (2) -- the grid lines are just to show the sizing of the pattern. Each square is 1" x 1": Handle:bunny_basket_handle.jpg (19937 bytes) Body: easter_basket_body.jpg (98714 bytes) * This is a craft that my brother learned in Kindergarten in 1964. The pattern isn't written in stone, so don't worry if the basket is too shallow, or if the face drawings aren't exact. Just have fun!

Thanks happykate! I still have to pinch myself when I walk in and look at it all (esp at night when the counters are sparkling under the lights!). The granite guys had actually told me to use steel wool to remove any spots of epoxy they might have missed when they'd repaired our seam. They also used it to remove some shadowing we'd gotten on our honed travertine floor tiles in another part of the house--they said the steel wool "polishes" the stone, in a manner of speaking. The 00o stuff is pretty gentle. I used 00 steel wool in one spot, and might have buffed a little hard trying to see if I could remove a partial ring, but even at that, there's the slightest of faint scratches if I look really close (and only because I was looking really close). I'm not sure if the steel wool has worked on all the rings (not that there have been that many, but any at all is too many for me!). One that was there for a while from fairly early on, seems to be gone, as is another one. One or two that seemed to have faded after buffing them with the steel wool, had reappeared. On the advice of the fabricator, I'd re-sealed/polished the stone early last month with the stuff I'd gotten from them (an Italian product called K.R. 33, that says on the can that it "Brightens, Polishes, Protects"). I don't know if it helps at preventing the rings at all, but it sure shines up our granite so, and I love how gorgeous the counters look after I've applied it. If I wasn't afraid of harming the counters (over-applying), I'd be tempted to use the stuff monthly!

Of course it can be repaired! Surely others on this forum can give more detailed instructions, but do a quick computer search for repairing damaged moulding. There are kits that include material for making a mold from a similar moulding, then filling the mold with a plaster-like resin to make a repair piece.