To staceyneil; Sorry, I've been off-line for a few days, but I see you're getting good advice from others that have also helped me here in the past. What JW said very well about one mfg product's being sold, I can't say for sure but he certainly seem to know the story well. When I quoted $40, it was for teh exact blue box re-ignitor unit, on e-bay when I last looked in Oct'ish. I just did a search for it using BOTH the RI120e-4 number that's on the Tytronics OEM unit, and also the part number (also on that blue OEM box - i snapped a pic of mine upon delivery to be sure I know what to get later if needed), and that # is PA020041. That PA number appears to be the same OEM unit used on some Viking stoves. I found a $60 buy it now and a $110 bid price on another. AS JW or another said, if you also search for either of those numbers, or # PA020047, on Amazon or even Google, you'll find alternatives much cheaper than your indicated $140 est. I THINK but cannot say at 100% certainty as I haven't tried it, that the PA...47 unit will work, but the spark cycle/speed is a tad slower than the OEM blue unit. Taht said, I can see no reason it won't work, and even the old OEM blue units you can likely still find some at various internet sites at cheaper than $140. It may take some time, but I bet you can find it. Black88, thanks so much for teh info on how to get to the (spark) electroids under teh top, make sense. FWIW, I did find replacment individual burner electroids on-line, VERY reasonable, at only $21 apiece, but the shipping was $15. Maybe you can check there if you order your module AND a spare electroid, perhap a better deal... reach them via e-mail at sales the atsign guaranteedparts dot com As for teh rest of you with oven temps... Our normal cooking is around 350-425, and I noticed right at the start, at lower temps, the control varies, so I got 2 fairly good oven thermoters and placed on a rack in about the center of teh oven. After some pre-heat, and sometimes fairly extended run times, our oven out of the box was about 15-20 degrees on teh LOW side (real temp compared to teh markings on the painted-on dial). SO I took to the adjustment. Now, I cannot recall if I turned the set-screw left or right for my adjustiment, but I do remember researching on You Tube and/or other Googled sites, and just an FYI, the adjustment on gas vs electric is very different. I dount you should be afraid to try, but do realize, you probably want to tweak the adjustment screw NO MORE than a QUARTER of a turn each time. A little goes a long way. THe process, just as a poster above suggested, was EXACTLY as mine did. The flat-head screw way in the center of teh shaft is almost (to my bad old eyes) invisible, but with a long, thin (almost jewler's screwdriver), I gently kept placing and "feeling" until I felt the blade bottom inot the screw head, and then slowly turned. If I recall (this was right before Thanksgiving), I think I tried/readjusted 3 times, 3rd time being the charm. Again, we use mostly 350, or 425, and ours is about as dead-on as I can imagine. It worked thru everyday family cooking since Oct install, thru a great Thanksgiving and Christmas cooking event for a house-full. So far, very happy with the unit, even moreso now that (thanks to user above) I know I can get to change the spark electroid on the burners if need be, easily, even tho it means pulling the unit out a bit. Cheers all... If I find a cheap source for any of teh parts, I'll update, but do try the site above or call them at 514 685 5202

I am very sorry to read of your loss. I have a good friend who was recently widowed and she is finding it quite bewildering. When you say you cannot lock your door is that because you don't have a key, or because the deadbolt has no hole to receive it in the jamb? A new key can be procured by taking the lock (out of the door) to a locksmith. Or even just buying a few bit key examples and seeing which one fits. Which highlights the lack of security of that style of lock and an old-fashioned bit key. I have to confess mine are just like it, but we don't live in a particularly dangerous area. If the problem is that there is no pocket in the jamb to recieve the tongue (not sure the technical term for the part that will stick out when the deadbolt key is turned), then the solution is to have a carpenter create the hole and attach a plate to reinforce it. It's a simple job. If the problem is that you have the key, and that there is the appropriate hole in jamb but that the key won't turn in the lock, it just needs to be cleaned. You could try some WD40, but it may need to be removed from the door and cleaned. This is not hard to do. Just take pictures as you go, and perhaps put every little piece in a separate, and sequentially numbered, yogurt cup (or similar container) as you go, so you know how to retrace your steps on reassembly. Or the problem maybe that you want a more secure lock (which wouldn't damage your door, no matter how historic it is), then I would find a qualified locksmith and get it done. Medeco locks, I believe, are very well-thought of (and a higher-cost) brand. You may or may not have enough thickness to the door for such a lock. Other good brands would be Schlage, Baldwin, etc. Some of these have mid-to-lower cost lines for sale at Home Depot or Lowes. Installing a lock like this requires hollowing out a pocket for it within the door. It can be a tricky thing to do on your first attempts. If you can afford it, it's something I would have a pro do. It's not hard or involved, it just takes experience and special tools, so it wouldn't be ruinously expensive. As to whether you should replace the hardware, that depends on whether you could find newer ones that fit in the pockets. I would start with cleaning, making sure the deadbolt/key thing is workable and then consider adding another good-quality deadbolt to the door. If you are particularly worried, you might need to reinforce the jamb, as well. I am suggestig these smaller steps at first because I (as an older woman) find it comforting to take on stuff and fix it myself. It really adds to my underlying sense of security. I hope my answers help you. Liriodendron

I'm back. but i've been sick again. still am. have been very sick for at least 4 days. so I'm not up doing much of anything. hurts too much, difficult to walk. the 3 windows and door were supposed to be in last Friday but they didn't get here. hopefully they got 'here somewhere' yesterday. dbf called the guy today to check on them. he'd even lost the guy's ph # and I had to call a shop in AJ and ask them for it. geeze. I can tell he's really concerned. He came out last wk with the prv owner of the mfg home and brought out his old mattress set for me to use for now on the floor so girl doesn't have to jump up and down far. he had some grey tiles he thought I could use and brought one out. it's the old type from the 50's. or a school cafeteria floor. so no, I won't be using them. there were flecks all thru them. He also brought out a different dw. A maytag. it's older, not a new one but does look better than the GE in there. Still, I think GE is a better brand than maytag. will probably have him hold on to the GE for a bit in case the maytag dies out on me. if it does tho I'll probably just look for a KA on sale. the PO helped dbf take a big old metal desk out of the back bdroom. glad to see that gone. he also checked way at the top of the built in cabinet in my bdrm to see if it was screwed into the wall up there. now I just need someone tall with a ladder to unscrew it all. It should split into 2 parts (each with shelves at the top, one with drawers at the bottom and one w/doors at the bottom. They'll probably go into my 'desk/book' room. They'll need painted or something. eventually. They also measured all of the rooms for area rugs (he has a ton of them). I just hope they're livable... they will be for a time anyway. I managed to go to Lowe's last wk before I got so sick (like the day before) and got 3 shelves cut. 1 is still in my car! the shelves are particle board. should I paint them? if so, wouldn't I need to seal them first? I noticed when over there one day that there was a smell I didn't like - I think it's the boards. I was going back this past wkend to get bathroom lights - but I was too sick to do that. I hate being sick right now - the temps are down. about 104 today. was only 98 yesterday (or sunday). good temps to get things done.

Ok, I'm back, and refocused. Thanks so much for all the advice (and the football tangent. I'm married to a Steelers fan, so Sunday wasn't a happy day -- record-setting blizzard AND Brady getting another ring). Anyway, I did the rough math and decided that by the time I pay my GC to install and painter to paint my doors, they won't be much cheaper than going with a much better product. Plus, my GC doesn't do exterior doors everyday and I know there's a real benefit to having the experts handle install. I've talked to a few local folks and been advised that HomeGuard is a bit of a better value than Provia -- less expensive and still quite good. I've been quoted $4400 to install factory-painted HomeGuard doors - two 36"x80" flush steel doors plus two 16'x80" sidelites with low E and argon glass. Is this a decent price? And a good way to go? Thanks again.