COOL!!! What it doesn't show is whether there are distinct regions, like DeDietrich or AEG zoneless have. The controls certainly imply that it might be totally free, but they could also be interpreted as regioned. The question is whether one could put something like 8 different small pots on at the same time, or a crescent shaped pot. Probably not, but this appears to be a big step forward. Just in the depiction of the inductors as nearly touching circles--if that were true, it would be a leap from the wider spaced rectangles. And the control panel looks as easy to use as the knob on the current unit. Thanks for posting.

I think some on the Kitchen fourm have a countertop induction unit. I am getting an E7 in the timer window when I turn on the unit. It won't work at all unless I unplug and plug back in. Even then sometimes it is unresponsive. Any idea what E7 is? I hope this doesn't die! It has been my primary heat source (cooking) for 18 months. Thanks, Judy

todds, "Trap Arm" may be the notion you may need to work with. A longer "Trap Arm" lets peninsula sinks be properly connected to vertical vents that are in the closest wall. The window/counter setup you described is the same as whatever DWV plumbing setup happens for sinks in peninsulas of all shapes. No window needed. In other words, go pick up vertical venting over where there is no window. a.f.a.i.k. a house must have lots of real venting and almost no Studor/AAV venting. This is serious, in houses where there are toilets on a second floor above the main floor. It is less serious in a single-level house because there is no drain plumbing above the main floor ((i.e. on a second floor). Studor/AAV vents transfer air only one way, so they handle only "positive pressure". Real vents allow air to move both ways; this is required in most arms of the DWV plumbing branching tree. How to handle effluent is a serious concern, so don't let internet strangers advise you on cutting corners. Only someone on site can see the geometry you have in your DWV plumbing in your house. DWV plumbing requires a lot of 3D thinking. Words written are almost never good enough to describe everything, unless the person writing is a Master Plumber and the person reading it has the same level of knowledge allowing him/her to interpret the precise words, and they happen to agree on what they mean. This can happen in forums inhabited by Master Plumbers. But even there, it requires a few posts for them to go back and forth to be sure about what they mean. For many years, I have been participating in forums inhabited by Master Plumbers (under another handle/name). If you posted diagrams that showed critical distances very clearly, you could receive some comments that help you see more clearly what options you might have, in your case. When a DWV plumbing system is not well designed, it allows e.coli, salmonella, dangerous gases, and fecal matter waste contamination to spread beyond the area that should have contained it. In DWV plumbing an exchange of air for water happens every time you flush. The Studor\AAV thingie is an imperfect thingie that will one day fail (years from now); when it fails risk and danger are increased by several orders of magnitude. Before it fails, it is unable to handle air moving both into and out of it : it only lets air in, when negative pressure pulls air into it. Just remember that the answer to the question about Studor\AAV vents is always "maybe" until your entire house plumbing is known to the answering party. Hth

Theanimala, I didn't follow that. I didn't see anything in the kpowers mentioning price comparison? between counter and cooktop. He was just saying that you have to add the additional cost of the 6 plus feet of countertop and trying to get a long piece when you look at cooktops. Cothele, What was the clearance you needed below the miele for Miele? It's about 5" right? They vary wildly from maker to maker as far as I can tell. For instance, my AEG requires less than 3" BUT there needs to be airvents in front, literally cut into the faceframe of the cabinet. So no oven for me. The viking requires only a few inches below it BUT that item (shelf, etc) can only come forward 18" so that the air ports in front are not block. So no oven for that one either. The Kenmore Elite looks like it requires about 5" forward BUT specifies a 4"x8" opening required in the cabinet for the armoured cable. So no oven for that. And those specifications are to keep heat from building up. I don't know what the heat would be from the oven but I'd assume greater clearance in that situation. Then theres the oven side. My oven vents from the rear and requires open airflow behind it so it HAS to go in a wall stack. Other ovens have other issues. I am certainly NOT saying that it can't be done. I was simply putting it out there that it is a very complicated question and I think stacking them should be avoided unles you are totally TKO. LOL. I know people who have done it to great success but it was always, always a huge deal. Breezygirl, there must be a billion posts on GW about the clearance below an induction cooktop. If you are seriously interested you should give it a search.