Have you called Bluestar directly to tell them the service vendor has not been satisfactory? They may be able to, and likely will, arrange for a different service rep who can provide real assistance.

I was close to purchasing a Bluestar mostly because I want the experience of cooking over their legendary top burners.

But stories like jojo40's push me in the direction of going with Capital-Cooking's new great "Precision Line." HMMMM -- decisions decisions.

Hope you can work this out satifactorily JoJO. Everyone seems to love their Bluestar except that there appears to be a few lemons and a few incompetent service people out there.

I agree that you should talk to Bluestar directly. And please let us know how it goes.

Best Wishes for the New Year

These ovens are simple, so it must be the repair people. The ignitor is really a 'glow plug'- it runs off house electricity. It takes a minute or two to get hot-before it allows the gas to flow. And if you remove your racks and lift out your oven floor, you can see if the plug gets red. Once red, the gas should flow to the burners and light up. If the glow plug is red (give it two minutes)but the gas doesn't come on, it's the thermopile- basically a wire and sensor that 'allows' the gas to go to the burner by opening a solenoid valve or relay switch. If the glow plug gets red but the burner doesn't light, this is the problem. Sometimes it's as simple as moving the sensor closer to the glow plug.

As the oven heats up, there is another sensor/thermostat, that is controlled by the knob to cycle the flow of gas on and off to keep an approximate temp in the oven . This regulates the temperature. And I 'think' it works by cutting the electricity to the glow plug.

Now I have never worked on my Bluestar oven, but I have replaced thermocouples on old Wedgewoods, and worked on many old gas furnaces that work similarly.(except they have pilots). But I put new controls and thermostats in them.

From what you said, I think it's the thermopile. (Also called a thermocouple)or the solenoid valve it controls. Otherwise you would have heat. When the oven worked once and shut off - it would have been interesting to see if the glow plug got red again-if it didn't, then the thermostat was bad, but if the glow plug went red but the burner didn't go back on, it's the thermopile.

If the glow plug doesn't get red hot, then it's the glow plug, but like I said, you can see that if you lift out the oven floor.

Call the factory evidentally Earl B Fieden can't figure out what to look for.

Thanks everyone for the advice. Alex, the ignitor did NOT go back on after the oven failed after the first repair visit. So it sounds like the problem's in the simple thermocouple mechanism? (Simple? As Sr. Wences used to say, "Easy for you, difficult for me." And I was the only girl in my highschool physics course, plus I made our family stereo from a kit back in the days !!! So I should be able to follow this.)

I'm going to try to contact the factory but my husband has had a really hard time getting a callback. I'll let you know if I have better luck.

Does the glow plug go on when the oven is first turned on? If so, you can eliminate the glow plug. If the gas never flows, it's the thermocouple. If it repeatedly starts up, but the glow plug does NOT go back on after the oven cycles off, it's the thermostat.

The bluestar range is so easy to work on i don't understand why you are still having problems, it could be the retailers service guy is not 100% sure of what to do.

I have emailed Matt at bluestar your first post for his input.

If you send me an email or call me over the weekend i will have Matt call you on Monday. Unfortunately i am not allowed to post my email address or business name, but i am sure someone else will help us out in that department.

You and your husband can rest assured your problem is 100% fixable, you just need the right part or the right guy, both of which Bluestar can provide.

Alex: How can I get that info to you?

Just for the record, here is the sequence as I perceived it (I don't have all the details).

1. Mid-November: Oven stopped working. We called repair guys who checked it out then eventually came back with parts, I believe replaced ignitor and oven seemed to work. (I was at work at the time.)

2. Day before Thanksgiving I put a cheesepie in the oven and halfway thru the baking realized that it had come to a halt; nothing was happening. Tried to restart, even let it cool off completely and tried again. No luck. Called the dealer, confirmed that broiler worked, glow plug didn't light.

3. Waited weeks. After new ignitor arrived they returned the day before Xmas (having been told by Matt? that the problem might also be wiring.) Fiddled for an hour, but the new ignitor wouldn't work. Now think it might be valve but didn't have the right one to swap out. They hope to learn more on Monday. Meanwhile my husband has exploded with both dealer (Guadalupe, why do you conclude it's Feiden?) and on Matt's voicemail. I don't want to blame the wrong party here, but this is ridiculous.

Jojo, I don't think you need to get any info to me. You can see for yourself if you remove the floor of the oven as I mentioned several times. If the glow plug doesn't 'glow' then that is the problem. If it keeps burning out, there is a short.
In any case, for your oven to work, it starts with the glow plug, so that is the first thing to check, and it's easy to see whether it's working. There are also easy methods for the service people to see if a new glow plug works before it goes back into the oven.

The problem is with the service people. They don't know what they are doing.

Trevor: I'm not sure how to reach you.

Alex: I thought I indicated that the new glow plug doesn't work. And I think the serviceguy suspected a short and tried to find it. It seems that he and Matt need to talk since I can't really say exactly what he's been checking for all these visits.

Guys: If I call Matt tomorrow will I be able to get through to find out what's going on?

Hi all!
You can reach Trevor at 978-232-0007.

JoJo, sorry to hear about your oven! Please let us know how you make out!

We ordered the BlueStar 60" range with 24" grill a few weeks ago from Trevor. Can't wait to get it!

Trevor: I'm not sure how to reach you.

Alex: I thought I indicated that the new glow plug doesn't work. And I think the serviceguy suspected a short and tried to find it. It seems that he and Matt need to talk since I can't really say exactly what he's been checking for all these visits.

Guys: If I call Matt tomorrow will I be able to get through to find out what's going on?

Someone's repeating themselves 6 hours apart. How does that happen? Anyway if you didn't see the phone number for Trevor above, you can Google Eurostoves to get the number.

Sorry about the double post. I was working from a very slow old laptop which made it hard to tell that I had actually sent that message already.

Hi,

This is the first thread I came upon that addresses a similar problem with my BS oven. The oven temp failed then stopped working altogther. I found a cut in the wire that shorted out the system. I think it damaged one of the components in the oven.

I spoke with both John and Matt at Bluestar and they sent me all the parts I needed to replace on the oven. They were very helpful after I explained about the service people at Elkay in Brooklyn were going to gouge me $1000 to fix my oven. Elkay told me the parts were going to cost $450. It cost me $200 ordering direct from Bluestar myself. Then the repair was going to be another $500. This was after I paid them $150 to come out and look at the thing. They fixed the exact same problem two years ago for $430 total (that's both parts and labor!).

Anyway, I replaced the ignitor and still get no glow. However the broiler does turn on and work. When I turn the knob the other direction to start the oven the light on the front clicks on but I still get no oven ignition. So my question is:

If I replaced a brand new ignitor in the oven and it still won't come on is a problem with the Dual Safety Valve or the Thermostat?

Hi Ben,

Just to keep you up to date. Exactly two weeks after the last unsuccessful service call I have heard that our new part (a second dual safety valve) is in at our dealer and they are hoping to attempt repair again tomorrow. (If only someone in our family were courageous enough to perform these tricks ourselves!!!)

To correct my previous chronology. They replaced valve first and then the oven cut out at the first real trial. They thought it must be the ignitor, brought a new one, but couldn't test it because there was still apparently no gas flow. (They really did check a whole bunch of circuits. I witnessed that myself.)

I guess it could be the thermostat; I'll make sure they check that tomorrow when they install the new valve

Stay tuned. My husband is about to write an account of our workarounds living with no oven.

Hi Jojo, Don't know if you're still reading this board, but I also live in Kingston and have a Bluestar. No problems in four years. But there is another repair shop that works on Bluestars: H.L. Snyder and Son in Saugerties, 246-2431.

You live in Kingston area and called Elkay in NYC for service, Did you ever call Signature Marketing the distributor of Bluestar for a servier recommendation or how about the dealer you purchased from?

I was reading this thread and think I have a similar issue with my BS oven. My oven doesn't stay on or get to temp.
When I turn my oven knob the blue light doesn't even come on until I reach the 250 degree setting.
I removed the floor to the oven and the glow light does light, the burner ignites, the glow light shuts down, but after a couple of minutes the burner shuts off.
Waiting a few minutes, the oven cycles, and it repeats this process but never gets over 300 degrees.

It doesn't appear to be the glow light. Based on what I read in the thread, I don't think it's the thermopile. Is it the thermostat?

Thanks! I hope someone has an answer.

sounds like a thermostat to me. If you set it to 400 and it stays at 250, then it's the thermostat. There is an adjustment screw in the middle of the stem of the oven dial, but it may be to far off for adjusting

I do not know if anyone still monitors this thread, but I have a very similar problem. I do not have the funds to hire a repair tech so I am trying to self diagnose. I was running my Blue Star oven and it stopped working in the middle of cooking. The oven igniter no longer glows at any temp. I purchased a new one and still no luck. Just to be sure I didnt get a bad igniter I switched my small oven igniter, which works, into the larger oven and it still did not work. The boiler in the large oven does work, so it has power.

Can anyone help me with this? Based on my research I found a parts list for my oven. The only two parts I think it could be are the large thermostat (part 702901) or the thermovalve (part 718901). My guess is it isnt the thermovalve because the broiler would not work anymore right if it were that part?

I thank in advance anyone who responds to this message!

Chris

Sounds like you need to replace the hot surface igniter. I just did mine on my BS RNB oven. Easy fix if your even a little mechanical. look here for part >>> http://www.guaranteedparts.com/picture_library/BlueStar/Parts%20identification%20for%20Ranges%20and%20Cooktops.pdf .....here's installation >>> http://www.guaranteedparts.com/picture_library/BlueStar/BLUESTAR-Oven%20Igniter%20Installation.pdf

I took off my oven door to make it easier to get to the igniter wires .... no service call needed. I am not service tech, I am just sharing my experience. The part number I had was #703301 from Guaranteed parts website. Give Bluestar a call for verification, they have been really helpful for me via phone....

@kfunky_gw, what you are describing sounds exactly like the part that @lv2trav46 already replaced. So, it is unlikely that another replacement is going to fix things.

This is unfortunate, as the igniter is a) the most common reason the oven wouldn't light up, and b) the easiest and cheapest to replace.

That means, some more serious diagnostics are required. A technician should be able to pinpoint the root cause easily, but of course that costs money. And if it requires major disassembly, that's going to be high labor costs. If @lv2trav46 is good with a multimeter and with understanding basic circuit diagrams, he can probably figure it out himself. But if he doesn't, then online advice won't help all that much either.

My guess is that it doesn't have anything to do with the thermopile, as that only really matters after the igniter has already turned on. So, that leaves the thermostat. But that's a much less common part to fail. It probably can be tested with a multimeter though before spending a lot of money on a replacement part that isn't actually the problem.

Also, this forum had single report of the wire harness failing due to incorrectly installed insulation. That's a cheap part, but it's very difficult to get access to all of it. Also, since there only is a single reported incidence, we have no idea whether it is likely to happen to @lv2trav46 But yes, it could be as easy as a loose connection or a frayed wire.

In other words, either be prepared to spend a weekend diagnosing the problem DIY or pay a service technician.

OK its 2 years after this thread so I don't know if anyone else is still having a problem or out there listening. If you are there please let me know.

I purchased and installed the Blue Star stove in 2016. All of a sudden the igniters on the stove don't go on and the oven stopped cooking mid roasting last night. I have also been suspicious that the oven was working optimally for a while.

It appears that all the electrical components are not operating. I will be calling the store that sold and installed the stove for service.

Is this a common problem with Blue Star?

I know that this is a dumb question. But if everything failed all at once, have you checked the breaker? There are different reasons why a breaker could trip. Some have to do with the range and some are completely independent of it. But they would all show these symptoms.

If the breaker has tripped, can you reset it and does it stay on? Can you still use all stove features afterwards?

The most benign explanation would be that your oven igniter burned out (that's normal; they are designed to only last a couple of years). In 90% of the cases, they just stop working and that's it. But there has been at least one report in this forum where somebody had their igniter fail with a short circuit. That's unusual, but it would cause breakers to trip. Fortunately, super easy to fix, if that's what it turns out to be

My RCS oven just stopped working a few weeks ago. I have narrowed it down to the thermostat but I'm wondering if anyone has put in the Elan electronic replacement tstat? It's only about $20 more that the mechanical one but I'd like to hear from some real life experiences first.

Blue Star Ovens are great, if and when they work.

After installation, I went thru a test routine to include testing for gas leaks, turning the oven on; normal stuff. Then I turned on the lights.

Turning on the oven light tripped the circuit breaker on my inverter (I’m not on the grid.) Now these are stacked 5548 watt inverters running a 50 amp service. Dead short – right? And the 20 amp breaker on the house service panel should have tripped first, so this was an interesting situation. However, as this is a wall oven and weighs a ton, I figured that bread doesn’t need light to bake so don’t turn on the light. Worked for me.

I thought the convection fan was a little loud. It was, and failed after a month. I ordered a new one which had a bent arbor, ordered another which had a bent fan. After 6 weeks, I was missing my oven, so I disassembled the last two fans and made them into one big happy fan which after installation, lasted about a year. During this happy year, I replaced the top and bottom igniters and a convection fan switch.

So, who needs a convection fan and lights in a $4k oven, right? The turkey will still bake.

Except on Thanksgiving.

Had a microwaved chicken pot pie with stuffing and all the trimmings

.

Maybe it was because the oven light was out and it couldn’t see!!!

So tomorrow I will look at the oven igniter, check the thermostat and order parts including a new fan – maybe. Than, if I need to remove the oven to do a wiring trace to determine where the lights and fan are shorting out, I don’t think that my $4k, 30 inch gas wall oven that will not ignite and has peeling red paint, no oven lights or convection fan can/will possibly fit back in the hole.

Not the same hole anyway.

Blue Star is no star.

J. Perry

Round Valley, CA

I have rcs304 bss second hand

Just want to be sure about the electrical wiring.

120 v pass by the thermovalve before the bake igniter...look like someone made a wires mess.

was working but burned a lot of bake igniter and now the thermovalve is

Where i can find the wiring diagram?

You'd probably need to find the service manual, but I am not sure whether Bluestar would send that to you. And unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be available on the internet either.

We installed our BS gas wall oven in 2011. We been through 2 fans (fan broke again so we live without a fan) 1 infrared igniter.

Quite a few weeks ago, the oven stopped working midway through a bread bake session. A BS certified service person came out, diagnosed the gas valve...couple of weeks later came back with the valve & a relay box, both burned out! Another couple of weeks go by, he came today, same thing, both valve & relay burnt out!

Anyone have any knowledge of this? Anyone out there?

Thanks

Sounds very much like an intermittent short, similar to what I just dealt with. I don’t know your model at all, and my range doesn’t have a relay so I’m wondering what that controls. Is there a fan that’s supposed to automatically run when the oven’s on?

I’d expect the tech to be looking for damaged wires, probably the ones going to the igniter or fan. My money would be on the igniter wires. The igniter’s resistance limits the current that can flow through the rest of the circuit. If a break in the insulation creates a short that allows the circuit to bypass the igniter then far too much current flows through the thermovalve, and in your case evidently the relay too. These components aren’t protected by a fuse or breaker, so the excess current will fry them instantly.

Thanks Jon...if we discover the source I’ll post a comment

I need some help with bs 36” drop in cooktop. I have recently installed this and hav some user error so some exper can guide me.

I have a 48" BS and we are facing a very similar issue as the above. First the tech came out and replaced the hot surface igniter, then he replaced the thermostat, and now he says he needs to replace the burner assembly...this is becoming a huge money drain.

I have had nothing but problems from my BlueStar range RCS. It started within the first year and we have replaced igniters at least six times in the last five years We’ve also replaced the thermostat —we’ve also replaced the convection fan and other parts. I’m just holding my breath because I’m sure it’ll break again soon.

Love love love the open burner cooktop. Hate hate hate the oven.

We have had similar problems, installed 2011...3 new fans, last one installed late 2019 broke a month later. Ignitor # 2. Certified BS repair man dropped the whole oven on the floor, smashing slate tile & oven doors. New oven doors do not close properly....love our cook top, hate the bl@8dy oven. Doesn’t keep temperature for baking either🤬

I have a BS RCS 30

The oven does not work. The top burners do work and so does the broiler. The broiler ignitor and burner ignitions all work.

I have replaced the oven ignitor but does not get red, even after waiting 3 minutes. The ignitor to the broiler does get red. I have checked connection with a volt meter and no red light to the oven ignitor. The electrical housing behind the oven knob was hopped in cooking oil, I've tried to clean up and dry out all connection and check wires and nothing seems fried or broken. Sooo, I'm thinking it's the Thermovalve (see attached photos) but should I consider replacing the black thermostat wire before I do that? Or purchase a new electrical blue box that's behind the oven knob? Are there any other options? Other possible problems?

Definitely not the blue box — thats the spark unit for the top burners.

Since the broiler works, we know the connections are ok up to the thermostat.

Two wires go from the thermostat to the thermovalve. One will have voltage when the knob is rotated to the broiler position. The other *should* have voltage when the knob is set to an oven temperature position. That’s the next thing to check. If that second wire doesn’t get voltage when the knob’s in a position that should turn the oven on, then the thermostat is shot. If it does get voltage, and that voltage is making it all the way to the thermovalve, then you’ll want to check for voltage at the other two terminals on the thermovalve. One goes to the broiler igniter, and the other to the oven igniter. If the terminal connected to the oven igniter doesn’t show voltage when the oven should be on then the thermovalve is shot.