Bill is also correct about the CV-22 being a vertical crankshaft Vee Twin. It is the orientation of the crankshaft that determines whether the engine is considered vertical or horizontal. Not the cylinders. CV-22= Command, Vertical crankshaft, 22 horsepower CH-22= Command, Horizontal crankshaft, 22 horsepower. I posted this to give a clue about how the engines are titled because for some components, it really does make a difference whether the engine is configured as vertical versus horizontal. ggoyeneche is also correct in his suggestion that swapping the ignition coil units to opposite cylinders will determine without a doubt whether the problem is ignition or otherwise. Bill's offer that only a spark tester is adequate to check the real "firing power" of a coil/magneto is true. The biggest reason for this is that the effects of engine combustion chamber pressure (aka compression) is profound on the ability of an ignition coil to generate a strong spark. Any method of testing the spark of an ignition coil or magneto that DOES NOT take into account the effects of compression will be inconclusive. Or in other words, it might make a spark that will jump a gap or flash a light out in the open air, but under compression, it will not spark. I don't know what type of test light you are using to check for spark, but unless it is an inductive test light that can be clipped over the spark plug cable with the cable still connected to the spark plug while the plug is properly in the engine, that method too is subject to giving iffy results.

If voltage made it's way to the new coil, it could have damaged it. A test for voltage at the kill wire is in order. If you know there is never voltage at the kill wire (check in every position of the ignition switch) and you are SURE there is no spark- it goes back to the coil. You basically need a grounded coil, no ground or power at the kill lead and magnets that do what magnets do to have spark.

What year did you buy your range? I think the older models used a different module causing several burners to spark when lighting any individual burner. The newer model have a different setup where only the one burner clicks

I just went through this. A Viking cooktop only 6 years old failed. Some burners wouldn't ignite. Some didn't register that they were lit and kept clicking ad nauseum. I found Viking completely uninterested in standing behind their product. They crow on their website that they acknowledge their previous models had issues and have now improved due to Viking being acquired by a new corporation. But when I called to ask what specifically they had done to make it worth my while to invest in a new Viking cooktop no one could tell me anything other than they were now owned by a new corporation, and by gum that meant something! When I asked if they would be willing to offer me a replacement unit, or pay to upgrade the defective electronics, or at least give me a discount on a new model, they declined on all counts. I told them I would be happy to relate my experience with their company online — good or bad — and so that's what I'm doing. I ended up going with a DCS CDV-2365H and I love it — SO much better than the Viking. Build quality is great. High output burners. Incredibly low simmer on all burners. And it was $700 less expensive.