The perfect build followed by the punch list from h**l
labradoodlelady
16 years ago
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bus_driver
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoauburnfan
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Mature sizes in Z-4 for the following list
Comments (11)That's an interesting list - sorry I can comment personally on so few, but in the end your experience will probably be like nobody else's, so you'll be doing what we all do - winging it - LOL! Oh well, there are worse things in life than having to move a rose. Double Delight - I have several in the ground, own root and grafted both. Grafted grows larger - 3.5x3.5 usually. I'd save the pot for another needy rose and plant DD out. Ferdinand Pichard - 4'x3' & I don't have him anymore. I gave him away because there was something about his stripes I really didn't like. (Just me, not anything against this rose.) Reine de Violettes - Mine is still quite new, too, but I'm expecting it somewhere in the 4' height range. I'm not sure how the width will work out there. Heritage - here's a rose that can bounce back from total cane loss over winter and then some! In a good year with the proper water, fertilizer and disease control I have had Heritage blast up to 5'x 4'!! Many years it is a more demure 4x3' size. Great Maidens Blush - One of those lovely "vase shaped" shrubs that lend so much grace to the garden. Mine is young yet and only about 5x3' Mme Isaac Pereire - a narrow, tall and lanky grower for sure. This one needs a support (oblisk or tutour?) or pegging. It never manages to have cane survive over winter so it is always starting over. Rose de Rescht - short, short, short. That's 2.5 ft. tall here, maybe 3' in a shadier spot where it's stretching a bit for the sun. But watch out! If yours is own root like mine, it will be suckering zealously. Don't plant it where you would have problems digging out the volunteers - which BTW, can appear more than 5' away from the original plant! Stanwell Perpetual - takes 4 years at least to build itself into the mounding shrub it wants to be so don't be fooled by early growth! It eventually settles into a 4' tall by 4 or 5' diameter plant so this is one to give lots of real estate. Hope these help!...See MorePunch list photos (LONG)
Comments (6)Thank you for sharing photos. I read your last thread but it was hard for me to follow.. the photos help a lot. I am still struggling to see how the rooms all fit together but I see how they are all visible from one another. I have a much smaller home but I have the same issue with shared, untrimmed walls. I first had the rooms painted different colors-- but it felt so discordant that I had them repainted to carry one color throughout. It was amazing how much that improved the vibe and visual flow of the house-- and it felt bigger and more spacious. To answer one of your questions, when I did have different colors butting up on an shared, untrimmed wall, I used the color of the primary room (or the one most likely to be flowed FROM) on the end piece. I know you are absolutely set on the pumpkin for the dining room but do consider that it will break up your expanse of ivory walls-- it will scream. Is that the effect you want in your sea of creamy ivory? Would you consider some great swathes of orange in curtains ,seat covers and accessories for that room? I do love orange and I love that you want to boldly use color but it feels like too much contrast-- not just in color but in style. You have a relaxed eclectic cottage vibe going in much of your house. Your inspiration palette is perfect for that-- but a bold orange room feels much more modern to me. Just a thought. Love that you are going to paint your fireplace. I have a very similar fireplace and will be painting mine this fall too! I am a little concerned about how much you want to paint in the LR. Will you white wash or paint the floors? I think it's worth considering keeping some of the wood tone in the room.. it will add warmth and continuity as you move to the paneled room. Definitely paint the china cab. It will give it new life! I think I want to see the chairs remain wood-- recover in your new palette-- but I want their warmth. I might also want to see the coffee table as wood. One other thought on the floors-- I remember that you said they cannot be refinished again. I assume they are not thick enough? When I refinished my floors, my bff (who has a gorgeous home) was instantly jealous. Her floors are beat up and old -- but they have SO much character. I love them and i love how her rugs look on the floors. We spend so much time on here looking at new floors and gorgeous woods I think it skews our thinking. I had to refinish my syrupy orange oak floors- if not because of their color, because of the damage from time, water and carpeting. Do consider whether you can use rugs to add color, texture and character without painting the floors. I think a flat weave or dhurrie style would be lovely with the direction you are going and they can be picked up pretty inexpensively. Again, just a thought. One more tip on painting. I also have plaster walls with the same texture (that photos seem to emphasize). I used BM aura matte paint on my walls. The matte finish is perfect for these old plaster walls! It hides the imperfections (if you have them) and it hides that goose pimple texture. I love love love the matte finish and wouldn't use anything else. Yes-- paint the faux brick. Use a good primer to make sure it sticks. Again, I love your palette and I think it's a great direction for your style. My final thought is-- are you willing to reconsider your plan for ivory walls? I definitely think light and airy is a good direction but is ivory too stark? I love your green in the family room addition. There is a wonderful range of light grays and colors that lean aqua, blue, green. I so wish you lived on the east coast because I'd give you access to my basement full of sample cans. Two friends have repainted their homes based on my samples lol. A few that come to mind may not be quite light enough for you but they are lovely-- the first is SW Oyster Bay. My bff painted used it in her living room and it is easily my favorite color for a wall. I do think it's a little darker than you want to go but it's definitely in your palette (and looks great with ivories, oranges, greens). I have BM Gray Owl in my bedroom and while it leans green-blue it is ever so delicate and ephemeral. It looks great with orange, aquas, pale greens and dark turquoise. A little more neutral with a hint of green is Ancient Marble. You can try your colors (or stick with ivory) but as I imagine your plan in my mind's eye, I want to see a hint of color in the walls. Just a hint.. just enough to be enchanting. Good luck with your projects-- you have an aggressive plan but it is going to look great when it is done! Think how fun it will be to watch each room inch towards your vision!...See MoreList of Home Building Decisions? Next Steps?
Comments (23)All good feedback but if your heart is set on new then focus, learn and be prepared for mistakes. Personally I prefer older homes. I like the charm and character(aka flaws) an older home frequently offers. I am a commercial, high-rise demolition contractor and perform all of my renovations myself, so much as I can. I can't stand the residential contracting business. There's way too many "deadbeats" including an relative of mine. I haven't taken on the challenge your about to but I can offer some advise from a contractor's perspective. Many contractor's take on more than they can handle, It's the nature of the business. They rarely hit deadlines and will drag out your build while focusing on another project that is further behind schedule, or has a higher profit margin. Your best leverage is money. Negotiate into your contract(s) that you will not pay in advance for ANYTHING. If the contractor refuses to fund the purchase of materials then you should get the invoice from the supplier and issue a check to the supplier. You should be provided a Schedule of Values(SOV) upon selection of a contractor. This SOV is how you determine what is completed and how much the contractor is entitled to be paid. Be careful, many contractors will "front-load" the SOV to get most of their profit out in the 1st few tasks. For example, they will over-price the excavation, which is usually the easiest task so if the relationship sours, or you lose your financing, or whatever, he has made his money before anything happens. This is when ALL leverage is lost. It's also wise to negotiate that you will withhold "retainage". This is typically 10% of all progress payments and is intended to be your assurance that the work will get done properly, any damages will be fixed, all vendors will be paid and not lien your home. It will also give you time to see the little details that may be done poorly that need to be re-done. You WILL miss the little details from time to time. Upon 100% completion you will walk the entire home, flip every switch, test every outlet, flush each toilet, open & close each door and decide if you are satisfied. When satisfied and provided proper lien releases you can release the retainage. A "good" contractor will not be afraid to accept those terms. A "less than reliable" contractor likely will not. If you have little or no experience with contracting, building, etc. you would be wise to hire the architect or someone with the experience to manage this stuff for you or at least consult with you periodically to assist. Some contractors have mastered the art of the "change order". Fending this off is where someone with experience will help greatly. Things will come up that will cost the contractor additional money, you need to understand why it should cost YOU extra money before you agree to pay. For example, you choose a stove that requires 220 rather than 110 but the drawings show a 110 service in this location. This you pay for. While excavating they find bedrock that needs to be chopped out. This too you pay for unless the contractor was provided geotechnical reports showing the rock elevations. If the contractor has to reframe a floor to accommodate the toilet flange, this should not be your problem. Contractors will frequently use bully tactics to get their way. They will yell and berate unsuspecting homeowners to get paid when they are not entitled or to get the client to agree to pay for extra work which was really a result of their poor planning. Don't fall victim to these tactics. Your money is your money and not theirs. A friend used to just pay anytime a contractor claimed it was legit. After I yelled at him and explained he was being "taken" he let his wife handle it and they found that pushing back and not being accepting saved them thousands. Also remember, this is YOUR house and YOUR project, not theirs. If you don't like the way something is coming out, tell them to stop. Notify them in writing to stop, take pictures(MANY pictures) and document everything. If you tell them to stop installing the kitchen cabinets but they do so anyway, then when they request a change order for dismantling them and rehanging them you can reject it. It's YOUR house, it should be done to your satisfaction, not theirs. Moral of my long story... YOUR money is your only leverage. The more you hold back the more satisfaction your likely to get. Contractors can't be profitable if they cant get paid. Good luck....See MoreDesign Help Needed: For Christopher Peacock Kitchen From Craigs List
Comments (87)I did need to have a few panels made for a new cabinet and they came out fantastic. Are you planning to have painted cabinets? Also, someone on this thread actually made cabinets for his kitchen and they came out fantastic! That is Joel! I do have lots of close-up pictures of the cabinets that Joel used to construct his cabinets. I do need to post the finished kitchen photos! We have had my Mom's 85th birthday gathering this past weekend for 16 people in our kitchen. The family is still here - we have cooked and visited these past days and this kitchen is the best! So many details have paid off! Tonight we make homemade pasta or Chinese dumplings.......See Morevfish
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