itsallaboutthefood: Thanks for the info. about the custom trim kits. I wish I could see one in person, since I'm not sure how I like the exposed screws, but we may have to go that route so I really appreciate the link! weissman: I just measured everything and our countertop overhang is just shy of 1" and the depth of the metal that hits the cabinet (see right side corner of picture) sticks out just over 1" but then it bows out towards the middle to just shy of .5" beyond the countertop. For some reason when it was installed it stuck out a tiny bit more, when measured by our GC. Our trim kit is the 27" Model # JX2027SMSS. Is that the same as yours?!? Here's a picture that might be helpful. When the GC had it installed the part on the right is what hit the cabinet and the middle part stuck out. Should the part on the right be recessed inside the cabinet? But then I'm not sure how air would escape. Any thoughts?!?

Have had ours since 2008 and I've never regretted it nor have I had any problems with it! In fact, I'm starting on designing/planning our retirement home to build in the future and I plan to include a MW drawer. With the exception of my (very) old Montgomery Wards Convection MW oven, it's lasted the longest. When we remodeled, the MW drawer cost the same as a built-in MW with trim kit. I've had no problems cleaning it. If food is stuck on it, simply boil a cup of water + vinegar for several minutes in the drawer and then wipe clean - the food should be loosened up and wipe off with a swipe. Yes, you do have to lean over and peer into it to see if it's clean, but... I'd much rather have to do that once every week or two compared to having to lean over/squat to use the MW several times a day! A regular MW in an alcove under the counter is not easy to use - you have to bend over or squat to use the controls and to add/remove dishes/food - usually reaching blindly into the MW and trying balance the hot dish as you're struggling to remove it from the MW, balance it to keep it from spilling, and standing back up - all at the same time! Regular/counter top MWs are not designed to be used under the counter - they're designed to be used at counter height or higher. Note that MW drawers have a "child lock", so if you're worried about your children getting into it, lock it when not in use! Oh and having a child lean on the door of a "regular" MW means potentially bring the MW down on top of the child - so be careful. No amount of child locking can prevent that! [I had a friend over a couple of weekends ago who kept trying to push the drawer all the way in and pull it all the way out - without letting the drawer do it's thing (automatically opening w/a gentle pull / automatically closing with a gentle nudge). Not sure why he didn't understand when I explained it to him, but his forcing the drawer open/closed did not damage the drawer in any way.] Sharp makes all MW drawers, so I would stick with a Sharp-branded drawer rather than pay $$$$ for a re-branded MW drawer with a higher-end name - it's the same MW! Here's a thread from 2008 about them. BTW...the concern that someone had 8 years ago about them being short-lived has not panned out. They're becoming more and more popular! http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2688345/microwave-drawer-pros-and-cons?n=42 .

Read the installation instructions... They will tell you if you can use them or not. If it doesn't give you the 2 options (with or without), it means you need them and they there for a reason. If not sure call customer support and ask them. Good luck

@Alissa Talley-Pixley: "we got a microwave that is mounted under a cabinet and then our contractor put a piece of trim..." Most countertop microwave ovens cannot be installed like that because venting is required on the top and sides (and rear). For example, the GE PEM31 instructions state, "Recommended clearances: 3 inches on each side, 3 inches on the top, and 1 inch in the rear." Also, clearance is generally required on the hinge side to allow the oven door to open.