Opps, did not take any pics before I amputated the limb, and the limb is now burn in my wood stove (seemed like a good way to dispose of it). However the description and visuals matched exactly the pics I had seen online, when I looked it up. (And even if it wasn't fireblight, it was some infection which was producing spores, so it needed to be removed) Fire blight is not a big deal usually up in my location (8200'), due to colder temps and dry weather. However it can occur. One of the problems I have is this orchard was damaged 1.5 years ago during a wild fire. Lost quite a few trees, and many of the surviving trees had parts of them burned (usually the one side which faced the flames). There is bark damage on some of the surviving trees from the nearby heat of the fire. Those heat damaged areas look a bit like sun scald damage. And it occurs to me now that they may be masking fire blight (which may have entered the burned areas). Which raises a good question, how can I tell whether these "burns" (or other scars/damage) are just normal injuries or are harboring fire blight? Waiting until the ooze starts is not the best idea, and several of the trees would not survive pruning out all the visible damage (if I were to err on the safe side). Are there any easy tests, or definitive way to spot a fire blight injury vs a normal and healing injury?

Good news for a lot of people, they had a ton of subscribers.

cuda- I am a professional furniture and custom millwork maker. I have made my own hardwood flooring and millwork throughout my own house. I can tell you that it is MUCH cheaper to make your own flooring and other woodwork provided you have two things: 1. access to the proper equipment. and 2. access to low priced material. I live near a sawmill and the material i used was pretty low grade stuff. 3 common and in some cases burn grade (which is as bad as it gets-lol) but what many folks dont realize is that you can pick up 1000 board feet of burn lumber for maybe 50 dollars. alot of the material will be garbage but the average 10 ft long board will probably yield a 3 foot piece that is usable. so this is a very viable way to get material for flooring. now all of the boards are random width- i have found that if i mill the flooring to 2 final widths it maximizes your final square footage. (i generaly make them 3 1/4" and 5"). here is more or less how do it. 1. sort using a miter or chop saw (mine is a 12" slider) sort the material into three catagories. firewood- narrow- wide i will not cut any sections shorter than 18" short boards are difficult to plane. 2. plane run all material thru planer to thickness 3. straighten one edge run all stock thru jointer (mine is an 8") to straighten one side 4 rip rip first one width and then the other on a table saw (i would recommend at least a 3 hp 10" saw) 5. toungue, groove, and relief cuts these are actually three different passes performed on a shaper. If you have access to a molder they can all be done at once. I used a shaper (if you use a shaper- dont even think about doing this by hand- you need a stock feeder)i generally do the tongue first- if the board has a crappy edge you can usually use that edge as the tongue and the crappy part gets removed- next do the groove- lastly do the releif cuts ( i use 1/2" cove bits for these-you can stack them on the spindle and do them all at once- i use 2 on a three inch board and 3 on a 5 inch) the relief cuts are necessary- they are not for air circulation but to strategically weaken the board- if they are not in place the boards in your floor will warp and pull their own nails out. as far as snipe or tearout is concerned- you do not need to worry about it because it will sanded off during the installation process. one thing i need to point out- buy a pair of calipers to measure the width of your stock after ripping and molding- if the machines are not setup properly you can get tapered boards- you dont want your boards to taper more than a couple of thousandths per foot. I will tell you that the cost of equipment isnt cheap. but i have a floor in my house made from black cherry- its probably worth in the area of $6000 i have less than $1000 in materials. so if you do the math- after a couple of rooms the machinery will pay for itself.

I'd highly recommend LastPass. Here are some comments about it: I have not used KeePass so I cannot comment on that. There are tons of users, so there is safety in numbers. It is also a paid-for service, so there is a better chance that they will keep a staff of security specialists. They are very responsive to defect reports (I have a paid subscription so that I can use it on my cell phone, which is well worth the money, in my opinion, for keeping this type of important info). I've tried Clipperz and it was great .... until they revamped the entire user interface making the desktop browser experience so slow that it was unbearable. I've not yet had that experience with LastPass. For choosing any of these password storage services, I would do a google search for how safe they are. I know of at least three other people in my company that use LassPass without fear of their passwords being abused/stolen. Other than keeping passwords safe, I also heavily rely upon LastPass's automatic login feature: I have to login (and relogin) to multiple sites in my daily work. Without that automatic login, my productivity would plummet. With LastPass, I can share some, but not all, of my passwords with my wife, keeping my own personal websites from cluttering up her view into her own LastPass. So that when the passwords need to change, it isn't much fuss or bother to keep her view updated. Good luck!