well because it takes time to go through and remove all that junk that no one wants anyway and yes often times stuff does get left behind. If they wanted to offer that junk they could include it on a disc so you can install it if you want it but pretty much all of it is just a trail version anyway so you end up having to either buy it or remove it. I use pc decrapifier on the computers I set up to get rid of that stuff. Yes you are right you can go through the time and effort to google each one and see what it is and if you might want it then take the time to fully remove it which means installing a good removal tool. And why? you never wanted it to begin with. The pc manufacturers are making money off us anyway with our purchase but they want to make even more by putting a ton of garbage on there too. That was one of the reasons I really like the new vizio computers they don't do that. Many people get a new pc and immediately wipe the entire hard drive and do a clean reinstall of just the Operating system to be fully rid of the extra junk.

Hi Chuck, Yes, it is a small world! It's really funny I've had TWO previous coincidences or "it's a small world" moments since I started on this geothermal quest. Both of these were related to HVAC contractors who know each other, either through a personal friend of mine or as business acquaintances. Anyway, it seems my house has a unique (challenging) setup in terms of the duct systems. You are correct in all your assumptions. The AC (2 zones) has 2 condensers which are located in a very low pitched attic while the oil boiler and heating air handler are located in the basement. The house has two stories built into a hill so the basement has 8' ceilings and is above ground on the rear and left side of the house but the front and right side are underground. Your questions regarding the testing of the systems make a great deal of sense. It sounds like I should have a duct blaster test. Here is what I know - (1) I had a blower door test which I think measured whole house leakage and the ACH in the house was high, .81 ACH; (2) No duct blaster was used but one of my geothermal contractors who wants to bid on the job wants me to spend over 2K upfront to have each duct system tested ($680 per system) "to determine the amount of airflow each register is receiving, which main line each register is coming off of, and other pertinent information needed to make a conscientious decision;" (3) Thermal heat images showed major air leakage in one of the AC duct systems. The returns for that system were like black holes in the photos; (4) The heating/cooling load calculation was done after the home energy audit. John, from Frederick Air is WONDERFUL, very dedicated, experienced, knowledgeable, etc. I would have him do the work and said as much but as you know his company doesn't service Howard County! I had John come out to see if that one leaky AC system would benefit from sealing it using Aeroseal. The big unknown seems to be whether it is more costly to seal and/or modify the existing duct systems or alternately tear out the ceilings and some walls (in my newly dry walled basement!) and install new ducting for at least the main line. It's interesting that the cost of replacing the systems and zoning is almost as expensive as switching to geothermal. One contractor is re-evaluating the duct work today with his "duct specialist" and I'm meeting another geothermal contractor on Tuesday next week. Then next Friday I'm meeting with the contractor John recommended who specializes in multiple zoned HVAC systems. However, if you take into account the state and county rebates offered for switching to geothermal, I think it will actually become the more economical choice. I'll ask TerraLogos about the duct blaster test. Should I have that test done? The thing is, I'm not sure if the cost of all this testing is worthwhile...basically I've paid a small fortune to verify what I already knew - my house has uneven airflow and distribution as well as leakage... At this point, my gut feeling is that the existing duct systems should be scrapped (metal recycled of course). That way, the winning contractor can start with a clean slate and build a retrofitted, truly energy efficient system. Thanks so much for all your input! Let me know if you have any other thoughts. Deborah

Tigerdunes brought up demand defrost versus timed defrost. For the past 18 years, I have dealt with my Lennox defrost scheme. The only times I heard it go into defrost mode were when the unit was first running in heat mode. The unit would switch over from heat to defrost, the defrost cycle would complete and everything would turn off. I never heard it run a defrost cycle when it was not first heating. I rarely heard it go into defrost. I never heard it defrost on a fixed cycle such as every 90 minutes. Am I to understand that a Carrier will just go into defrost mode every X minutes whether it needs it or not and is not in a heating cycle; just turn on and defrost itself? I found this information in the Carrier 25HNB6 heat pump installation instructions: AUTO defrost adjusts the defrost interval time based on the last defrost time as follows: When defrost time When defrost time 3-5 minutes, the next defrost interval=90 minutes. When defrost time 5-7 minutes, the next defrost interval=60 minutes. When defrost time >7 minutes, the next defrost interval=30 minutes. The control board accumulates compressor run time. As the accumulated run time approaches the selected defrost interval time, the control board monitors the coil temperature sensor for a defrost demand. If a defrost demand exists, a defrost cycle will be initiated at the end of the selected time interval. A defrost demand exists when the coil temperature is at or below 32_F (0_C) for 4 minutes during the interval. From that description, if the time interval elapses and the coil is not at 32 degress, then no defrost will take place. That, to me, sounds like a form of demand defrost. Is Baldloonie saying that the coil could be at 32 degrees or less without frost and, therefore, a defrost cycle would be unnecessary? What kind of ambient sensor detects presence or absence of frost? Neohioheatpump asked, "When your old A/C would run, was it producing water?" It was producing water and I saw it dripping from the condensate drain. One weekend I went out of town and came back to find water on the floor around the return box that the fan coil sits on. I opened up the access and found the interior insulation of that box soaked. Turns out the condensate line was plugged. Took awhile for that to dry out. On the other hand, this past summer I did not see water dripping from the condensate drain. The drain line was not plugged and the drip pan seemed dry. I thought it was because I had dried out the air so much with the two dehumidifiers that there wasn't enough remaining for the A/C to remove. Cooling was normal. Running the fan on manual started with the installation of the Lennox and an associated Honeywell Electronic Air Cleaner. The house suddenly became dusty and I blamed the EAC for not doing its job. The Honeywell zone representative came to my house, sized up the situation, and told me to run the fan on manual so that the dust would remain suspended in the air and available to be captured by the EAC. I did that and it was of no help for the dust situation but it did help reduce the temperature differential between the first and second floors during cooling so I kept doing it as a matter of routine. Thus, I cannot say that not running the fan reduced the humidity. Though I complained about humidity, the heat pump contractor never told me that I was humidifying the house by running the fan (on orders from the Honeywell rep). I will continue to run at least one dehumidifier in the completely below grade basement during the summer because I want that area to be warm and dry to avoid mold and mildew. I've been in the basements of other houses in the area that don't use dehumidifiers and they stink. Mike Home said, "You stated in an earlier post that you run the fan in the summer because the upper floor is 2-3 degrees hotter than the lower floor. I think adding the attic insulation will help this." I agree that adding attic insulation could help. But, having a Dutch Colonial house with a barn-like roof that is covered in dark shingles on the east and west sides causes a lot of heat gain through the second floor walls. I'm not keen on opening the walls to determine the amount of insulation or add to it. Changing to a light-colored roof would make the house look out of character with the neighborhood. There are newer shingles that reject heat gain that I will investigate. Mike Home also said, "You could also zone the first and second floors, but this is expensive and probably not feasible with your current duct work." There is but one main feed duct and it runs through the basement. There is no way to segregate the room feeds in this scheme without doing each one individually. I'll leave that expense to the next owner.

Lucie, my sink is an older model of yours. The colanders and cutting boards have been used once or twice and are now in the garage. I love the deep sink for washing large pans. I have only had 2 bowl sinks before this, and I will never go back to 2 bowls. However, with our garbage disposal sitting underneath the sink drain, that leaves just 5-6" to get around it to fix any plumbing. My husband can't get inside the sink cabinet to replace washers or repair faucets. Make sure your sink cabinet doesn't have the divider piece between the two doors. (Stylus? I don't remember what it's called.) I think because your drain is off to one side, you will not have the garbage disposal problem. We raised our countertops 4-5 inches, and we still have problems. Even without a garbage disposal, you will have to reach around the deep sink in the back, then up to the underside of the countertops to repair or replace anything. We have to hire people to do anything because my husband's back won't let him bend like that to lay inside the cabinet. Plus, you can't see what you are doing. 19" reaching back, then 10" reaching up to the underside of the countertop to unscrew the faucet, air switch, or soap dispenser connections is not easy unless you are young and bendable with long arms. Your sink is 19" front to back, but only 14.5" in the interior. Make sure your largest hand wash item will fit. My Ruvati center drain sink did not drain well. They had the channels/bends like yours, but the angle was not enough to fully drain like the slope on a cast iron sink. They could have changed that problem though. Cleaning: the square corners, edges, and angles are a pain to clean. I use an old toothbrush. Bleach will leave black spots on the sink if it splashes and you don't rinse it off. It is hard to notice that you splashed bleach until it is too late. Faucets: search Houzz for pull out vs pull down faucets since your sink is narrow front to back and deep. Our arched, pull down sprayer/faucet splashes everywhere unless we pull it down and let it hang 4-6" down hoping it will splash inside the sink. I am constantly drying the faucets, countertops, soap dispenser, and backsplash because other people don't pull the faucet down. It is a long way from the faucet to the item you are rinsing in the sink. With your narrow sink you will have to be careful that your faucet doesn't stick out too far which is why we chose an arched faucet that splashes. Doing it again: I would probably choose a sink without the square edges and corners to clean. I would choose more rounded edges and I would get a better slope in the drain. I would never go back to 2 bowl and would always have a deep sink. It is tough to find a perfect sink though with all of your requirements.