Proline are rock bottom priced Chinese made hoods that use 430 SS instead of the much more common and more expensive 304 SS. 430 SS uses less nickel therefore is a little darker and more prone to rust. You need a 60-66" hood with at least 1200 cfm. You will not find another company that sells cheaper. Maybe a new Chinese company selling something equivalent. In 2010-11 about 10 people on GW purchased Proline Hoods. Five were satisfied including one that was very satisfied and posted on every thread that mentioned Proline extolling the virtues of the hood. About three were unsatisfied with the lights. Either they were too dim or would not turn off. One got a free circuit board but got the run around about getting reimbursed for labor. Two had major problems. Not getting the right parts and another(if I remember correctly) too many holes drilled into the hood and duct cover. One complained to the better business bureau and the BBB closed the case with an unsatisfied rating saying the company never answered. This person would also post in any thread that mentioned Proline. The other just grew frustrated and posted so again and again. Eventually, people on here stopped buying Proline. But if you want something of better quality and reputation with the correct size and cfm you will have to spend significantly more. Do you want two remote blowers or just one for the outdoor hood? Fantech budget but kinda noisy remote blower. Probably not a good idea if you have neighbors close to your property line. Abbaka considered the best remote blowers. You have to maker sure blower is compatible with hood. If it is single speed I don't think they make those anymore. 3 Speed or Variable speed.

All of the above may be true, but are not in themselves totally limiting. In general, there is always a blower that will move a desired air flow volumetric rate through a given duct, but one might not want to operate it, listen to it, or pay for it. But in this case we are on the margin, and feasibility is not prohibited using conventional devices. For example, I have a Wolf/Broan 1500 CFM rated roof-mounted blower operating with a 10-inch duct, and given various estimated pressure losses, expect that it moves 900 - 1000 CFM. A 1000 CFM rated typical hood blower, no matter how large the duct, at a minimum will be significantly restricted by the hood baffles, and at a maximum by any added MUA pressure losses, and would be unlikely to move more than 700 CFM in use with a hood. An 8-inch duct has a sectional area of 64% of that of a 10-inch duct, so the pressure losses operating at 67% through an 8-inch duct of the air flow rate through a 10-inch duct will be similar. In general, one wants to select a blower having a fan curve that supports the desired flow rate at the pressure loss that one estimates is present. Without my looking up the specified hood, let us assume that its entrance aperture is 42 x 27 inches or just under 8 sq. ft. This calls for 8 x 90 CFM/sq. ft. or 720 actual CFM. A typical 1000 CFM blower may achieve this with a 8-inch duct, and one certainly can check the assumptions against blower fan curves (where available) to either ensure adequacy, or at least force the MUA system to be active and not cause significant pressure loss. Note that this doesn't violate your appliance guy's opinion about duct flow rates, although I am sure that his view is based on typical in-hood blowers. If you have the room in some part of the duct path, then including a silencer will help reduce noise back at the hood for only a small added pressure loss. In any case, numerous commercial kitchen ventilation blowers can be found that will pull 720 CFM against any pressure loss likely from a well designed hood/MUA setup. It is quieter to move a given flow rate when the fan blades are large and moving slowly than small and moving quickly, as the latter generates more high frequency noise from turbulence. Induction motors can be controlled by rheostat adjusted phase circuits, and these can be put into hoods. My Wolf hood has such a control, and now the technology allows for it to be performed with better techniques at low cost. These comments are meant to touch on most of your questions, but feel free to delve deeper as needed. kas

are the 45s you are referring to 45s....or 90s adjusted to be 45s? I went to the HVAC supply today and they didnt stock 10" 45s so I grabbed a couple 90s...which can be adjusted to be 45. This will definitely be a more gradual sweeping corner (but take up a lot more space). I think I can do one of these corners (2 90s adjusted to be 45 each forming one big 90 corner) from the vertical duct to the blower, but I wont have enough room to do a big sweeping corner to to the wall vent...ill prob wind up putting a single 90 there right out the wall. I think that will be fine...minimal resistance in the (relatively) longer run from the hood to the blower, and then a tight 90 after the blower but that 90 is the *only* duct between the blower and the sweet open air. I guess when I take a step back, the only reason I am doing this is in hopes that the 90 between the blower and the hood will reduce noise a little (as opposed to having a straight duct between hood and blower). I suppose I have nothing to lose and its only an extra 20 bucks in parts. One other question for anyone who has used the fantech blower....I bought the rubber clamps they sell for either side of it. Does the duct not attach to the blower in a male-female manner (pieces of duct do with one another)? does the rubber gasket clamp onto the blower, and then onto the duct so that the metal from the blower than the metal from the duct do not make contact (thus limiting vibrations being transferred to duct work)? I havent studied the clamps (or the blower) yet but in my mind that would make sense....and if its not setup like that, and there is a male-female screw+tape attachment between the blower and the duct...i dont know what the purpose of those rubber clamps would be :)

54-inches (4.5 ft) x 2 ft = 9 sq. ft. Desired volumetric flow rate to achieve 90 ft/min across the hood aperture is 90 x 9 = 810 CFM. Blower rating needed to pull 810 CFM with decent MUA will be around 1200 CFM, as you noted. Fantech provides 'fan-curve' data in the form of tables, and also plots. A 1200 CFM unit (at zero static pressure) will show a value near 810 CFM at some pressure drop (about 1.2 inches, w.c., for the FKD10XL). Excluding MUA, most pressure drop will be from the hood baffles, unless one has several tens of feet of duct. It would be useful for you to obtain pressure loss vs. flow rate data from Bluestar. Fantech in-line blowers are, I think, axial blowers (like a turbo jet pressure section) rather than a flat plate with radial fins (like turbo chargers use). Broan blowers, including inline, appear to all be the plate type. There is nothing wrong with these, but they may have a different characteristic fan curve shape than Fantech's blowers. I've never plotted both together. (It is important for residential blowers operated at uncontrolled pressure losses and any speed from low to high that they have monotonic fan curves. Else they might 'hunt' at some setting. That would be annoying.) Plate type blowers are least conspicuous built into a roof cap. Commercial up-blast blowers use induction motors often tied to the fan assembly via a belt and sheaves. These can be tailored to provide the desired CFM at lower fan speeds, thereby reducing noise. They are, however, significantly more conspicuous on the roof. The primary advantage to using a hood manufacturer's specified blower is that it will directly adapt to whatever fan speed controls are built into the hood. Other blowers may require some type of adapter or control replacement. So a Blue Star hood's control nature might have to be determined. My Wolf hood adapts to my Wolf blower, made by Broan/NuTone, and likely would work with any other single wire pair induction motor blower up to some motor power limit. The Fantech FKD10XL data sheet show curves for a 5-step transformer control, and for no control. One would have to check with them for compatibility with whatever the Bluestar hood uses, such as phase control. If you use an in-line blower, you also have to find a suitable roof or wall cap. Fantech many sell these. You should have a damper at the hood and also at the roof cap. You need to plan out the entire hood duct path. Is there room for a silencer? Can the duct path rise over its entire length (desirable)? What elbows are needed? Fantech makes some duct couplings that may prove useful. Hanger strap material will be needed. Sound dampening material may or may not be needed depending on blower assembly vibration, which is mostly, I expect, due to blower fan assembly balance quality. Best to match MUA actual flow rate to hood actual flow rate (ex: 810 CFM). This avoids all (well most) pressure drop in the house, conferring safety with combustion appliances and keeping the wall dust in the walls. If active MUA is needed to do this (depends on combustion appliances and their MUA, if any) then a blower that can provide the required CFM at the MUA path pressure loss (usually any air filters, but could include the heating scheme if hydronic). As usual, the duct diameter in the hood exhaust should support a full speed flow rate of 1000 to 2000 ft/min. The otherwise clean MUA path is not grease deposition constrained, but larger will reduce pressure loss if there is room -- useful particularly with passive MUA. I'll skip MUA control in this message, but it needs to be addressed. Commercial rigs usually run at constant speed (exhaust and MUA), so tuning is easy. Residential variable flow rate, along with perhaps a need to deal with other exhaust fans and fireplaces, imposes more difficult conditions for blower control. You might need a Fantech MUA setup, or their 10V control type blowers run by a controller trying to keep house pressure relative to outside within some bound.