"Have been looking on the net for a good place for help...and I believe I have come to the right place." I think so. There are a lot of really helpful and friendly people here, and people who know about all kinds of different grasses and growing conditions. Do you know what kind of grass you (and your neighbors) have? I think cool season grasses such as Kentucky Bluegrass (KBG) and fescue may be most common there, but Kansas City may be warm enough for some warm season grasses. I would have thought cool season grass would be greener that what is in your pictures by now, so I wonder if warm season grasses are more common. Fescue will stay green with less water and than KBG, but KBG will spread to fill in bare spots, so you won't get that clumpy look. Some newer fescues will slowly fill in bare spots, but nothing like KBG. If the fescue in the lawn is older, it's probably K31, which has a wider blade and tends to get pretty clumpy unless it is overseeded frequently, but stays green with very little water. Most of the newer varieties of fescue have narrower blades, but either don't spread or don't spread as much as KBG. If you overseed in the spring, it's likely that a lot of the grass will die during the summer, unless you're planning to use a warm season grass. Some examples of warm season grasses are Bermuda, zoysia, St Augustine, buffalo grass, blue grama. The last two are native grasses that are often planted together. Depending on which kind of grass you plan to have, you may want to kill your existing lawn before seeding. If you want to have a fescue lawn or a mixed fescue and KBG lawn, you can probably just overseed the existing lawn in the fall. If you want an elite KBG lawn, you'll probably want to kill the existing lawn and overseed (or sod) in the fall. If you want a warm season grass, you should kill the existing lawn and either seed, sod or plug in April or May. Seed is the least expensive way to get a lawn, but also takes the most time. Sod is the fastest and most expensive. I've only seen plugs for warm season grasses. Basically, you put little plugs of grass in and it fills in the bare spots. More plugs will cause the lawn to fill in faster but be more expensive, fewer plugs will take longer to fill, but cost less. Plugs tend to be more expensive than seed, but less expensive than sod. They also tend to be faster than seed and slower than sod in terms of getting a full lawn. Here are the pictures "inline"

That's ok Kai, I didn't know this simple treatment until my grandfather taught me when I was a kid. I use the Canadian peat you can purchase in plastic wrapped bales from Home Depot's, Lowes, Meijer's, etc. I buy bagged composted manure from Home Depot or Lowes. Sometimes it's called humus and manure. Same thing as composted manure, just a different name mainly. Spread the peat with the flat end of a steel rake and sprinkle the compost over the peat by hand. You don't need a thick layer, just about 1/4 inch. Don't worry if some areas have thicker than 1/4 inch, it is just an average. The watering in will help spread it out. Just get some on your lawn. (Sprinkling the composted manure by hand can be thin also. You don't need to go crazy if you know what I mean. Over time you'll figure it out.) It is labor intensive but you'll get alot of exercise from it. (Btw, you can do this as often as you like if you wait a couple of months between "treatments". It's up to you. After you see the results you might get addicted IMHO. LOL!!) Water it in. Don't go crazy with the water, just a medium soaking is all you need IMHO. Also, try and mulch mow the autumn leaves into your lawn every year. Just spread them out over the lawn and mulch mow them in. You might have to make a couple, or three, passes with the mower to get the leaves all chopped up. It's just that easy. VERY good for the soil over the long term IMHO. It's free to!! Good luck!!

***"not necessary to disconnect both cables when working on electrical, just the negative/black?"*** That is correct.....So long as the negative/black cable is in fact, the GROUND cable for the vehicle electrical system. And in most machines built in the last 40 years or so, the negative/black is the ground conductor. But you must "cling to" every word of the description. "Negative", "Black", "Ground"! Each word must be considered as a separate and individual criterion when you are preparing to "put a tool" to the battery terminals. (this is a lesson, listen up) There are currently (no pun) no laws governing the colors of wires and cables used in AUTOMOTIVE applications. There are "generally accepted and recognized practices", but no REGULATIONS. Black is nearly universally used as the color (by OEMs) of the negative battery cable, Red for positive cable, but some OEMs might decide to use black cables for BOTH positive and negative conductors leading from the battery posts. And, additionally, you must always consider that the original RED positive cable.....might have been replaced with a BLACK cable. Furthermore, the OEM, BLACK negative cable, might have been replaced with a RED one (you see all kinds of things in "used equipment". The odds of finding a BLACK cable for the positive conductor are actually pretty good, while the odds for finding a RED cable for the negative conductor are slim (but I have found them more than once). Nonetheless, since it only requires that you "look at" the markings on the battery (positive+, negative-), that is what you MUST DO,.... each and every time you prepare to "put a tool" on a battery terminal. ALSO, when you identify the negative post/cable of the battery......trace the cable to where it connects next. If the negative cable connects to the vehicle frame, chassis, or engine block....it is the GROUND conductor. This configuration is what you will find on just about every machine/vehicle of recent manufacture. But, it makes sense to understand the relationship of "color vs. polarity vs. function" in a vehicle electrical system. IF the black cable is connected to the negative battery post at one end, and to the "vehicle ground" at the other end.........that is the only cable you need to remove from the battery in order to render the electrical system "inert" and safe to work on. Even that statement will have "limitations" if the vehicle has advanced electronics and engine/cab controls, but for MOST L&G tractors, it is the best, safest, practice. ................................................... Getting back to your Huskee. Before doing the next test, disconnect the GROUND cable from the battery. Leave all wires connected to the solenoid "posts",.... connected for the test. The black/blue pair will be removed but reconnected in this procedure. To further test whether the solenoid is defective (shorting inside the solenoid), if the first series of tests point in that direction, remove the mounting bolts of the solenoid (where solenoid mtg bracket fastens to chassis/frame. Reconnect the black/blue pair of wires to their same chassis/frame bolt and secure with nut. Use some kind of non-metallic, electrically insulating material (suitable piece of cardboard, carpet, even an old sneaker will do) to set the solenoid on so it can't touch a grounded surface (chassis). Once you have the solenoid resting on the non-metallic material, reconnect the ground cable to the battery negative post. Now, operate the ignition switch to the start position. If the fuse does not "blow" now, it indicates the solenoid has an internal short to ground (fuse DID NOT blow because no ground was provided for the "short" to use). Don't expect the solenoid to operate during the test. Access to the solenoid on my Huskee is somewhat "difficult at best", but I find I can get a better view of it by going in from the right side floorboard/step area (front end of center console and backside of engine). I have to lock the brake/clutch pedal down to get more room for my head. In taking the photos, I went through the battery access under seat AND from the other end I described above.

Hi corneliu, I'm a retired consumer electronics technician and from the way you describe your problem it sounds like you have a dead or shorted blue gun in the CRT (picture tube). The clicking you hear may be the power supply relay latching & unlatching due to the TV going into a failsafe mode that shuts down the power supply down through the use of an "electronic fuse". This is designed to protect the electronics from shorts and/or high voltage arcing. I used to run into this problem quite frequently. One thing you can try is to take off the back of the set and place it face down on a carpet so as not to scratch the face of the tube and very gently tap the neck of the tube with something like a screwdriver handle. Hopefully this may dislodge some debris inside the guns and cause it to fall harmlessly into the bell of the tube. When you upright the set the debris will hopefully drop down into a non critical area and will never cause a problem again. Please understand that you must be very careful when doing this because it's all made of glass and that it's only a guess from what I read in your post. If they're are plastic rings on the neck of the tube try not to disturb them otherwise you'll end up with convergence and/or purity problems and they can really a problem to correct! Like I said before, this "fix" is only a guess. To accuratly diagnose the problem correctly I would have to see it! If the tube is bad and the problem can't be cleared, then I would go along with the previous posters and get a flat screen because a new CRT with labor would be VERY costly! Jim