Does Brian have a Wolf cooktop? I didn't see that in his post. Kim G said in another thread she bought a 4 3/4" melting pan to check the pan recognition and the Wolf recognized it on all the hobs. Curious because the Wolf is one of the 2 or 3 finalists for my house which starts const. in June.

We have a Samsung. It has a PB setting, but the sharing occurs even on lower settings. You can't, for example, have both elements on one side set to High. Well, you can, but you won't get a High power output on both. One will be much lower.

The Wolf has a power boost setting. It's easy to use because it's just a "button" located below the slider for each burner control.

Jim -- my mistake about assuming Brian had a Wolf when it was Jerry who mentioned that brand.

Brian - Which Samsung range do you have? Maybe one of the slide-in models with the knob controls? It would be helpful to know the model number because it sounds like one to avoid. I am not aware of any other induction range or induction cooktop that power shares except on boost.

jwvideo -- I just verified that my Electrolux slide-in induction range will not give me high power (not boost) on both left hobs at once. Start one on Hi (equals "10"), then turn the other on Hi and power reduced to "9" on the first one. Turn the first one back up to Hi, and the second one reduces to "9". Still pretty high output.

If I start a burner on power boost, then start the other burner on the same side with power boost, the power cuts back more. Power boost on the larger burner on the left side limits the smaller burner to 5.5; power boost on the small burner limits the larger burner to 7.0 maximum. The results are similar, but slightly different on the right side, which has the largest and smallest burners shared.

When you are done on "high" or "boost" and turn down that burner, the other one which had limited power stays down at its reduced level until you turn it back up.

I only recall one time when I ran into this in actual cooking. Had something cooking, then started some water to boil using boost on the other burner -- didn't notice for a while that what I was cooking was turned way down.

I'm sorry if I'm repeating something that's been said. My focus is off this morning. The issue here isn't about induction, but specifically about induction ranges. Ovens take a ton of power. Induction cooktops, also take a ton of power. Power sharing is common on ranges because there is only so much power one can throw at one appliance and expect to fit it into the average American home. Power sharing is one way they can provide higher power (i.e., nicer to use) elements and still keep overall demand down. Some higher end cooktops (only, not on ranges), where they expect you won't mind having to upgrade the electrical, have all independent elements. Some ranges are notorious for having surfaces which use induction but are downright unpleasant to use, due to poor design and implementation. A little power sharing isn't a big deal. It just takes some planning and understanding.

We always encourage people to carefully read through the manuals on the makers' websites before purchase, to understand exactly what you're getting.

I agree with plllog.

Following up on what attofarad reported --- hmmmm. Interesting.

Sounds like Electrolux range has two boost levels, then.

I know that the Miele induction ranges have both a "boost" and "double boost" settings. Miele is forthright about calling them that and clearly explains them in the owner's manual/user guide. As pllog says, reading the manual can help. But sometimes not. I say this because I just tried reading the manual on the Samsung slide-in induction model and found the discussion of the High/Boost setting was, well ... ambiguous. Seemed all the more so after Brian's description of what he is seeing with his stove.

I wonder if Brian's Samsung has a double boost, one called High and one called Boost? Or, maybe, the "High/Boost" mark is actually the same thing? Turn the burner knob one direction to the High/Boost stop and the display shows "H" but turn it around in the opposite direction to the same stop and it shows "Pb," instead? Maybe worse, though. He indicated that there was power sharing on lower settings. This leads me to ask Brian if his Samsung can have two burners in the same zone both running at the "9" power setting?

Used to be that burner specs for induction cooktops and ranges were represented by two numbers. A burner might be spec'd as, say 2500/3700. The first number would be the max power from that burner without any boost functions being used in a zone. So if 9 is the highest power without boost, then 9 would draw 2500 watts like an 8" coil on a coil burner stove. Fine for bringing pots to boil, just not as fast as a boosted induction hob. That might be the "9" setting on the Samsung if that is the highest setting without a power sharing effect. The higher number in a rating like the 2500/3700 spec would be the boost power. That is the power feature which allows induction to blow the doors off other stoves in the speed to boil races. After all, we're talking sheer horsepower here and 3700 watts should be a lot faster to boil than 2500 watts just as a 25,000 btu gas burner should be faster to boil a big pot than a 15,000 btu gas burner. Doesn't mean you can't cook well at the "regular" wattage setting any more than having a car with 100 hp means you can't drive because you do not have 500 horsepower.

Now, without engaging boost, a large induction burner won't be much faster to full heat than similarly powered coil burners. (This is assuming a pan base matched to the diameter of the coil burner.) Of course with a coil burner, you can't quickly adjust heat down and see a near-immediate reaction as you can with induction and gas burners, etc., etc.

Attofarad: Your description sounds like how it operates on my Samsung. It has a 1-9 setting (button, no knobs) plus a High and a PB. I don't know how those translate into watts. The problems surface when you try to cook more than one thing on high heat (H or PB) at the same time. It just doesn't do that. I've never noticed a similar shift in power when using multiple elements on a ceramic flattop or coil electric.

I have a Wolf induction cooktop and a Bluestar electric french door wall oven (that's a mouthful). I have always thought that if you have an appliance that combines more than one function, one or the other will be skimped on as multitasking tools seldom are best at every task--and besides, reaching down into a hot oven is annoying.

I don't think that the costs for providing simultaneous power boost to all 5 hobs of a 36-inch cooktop would be quite as great as you imagine JW. In the case of my former and present Electrolux clones, one would need to double the power circuitry (at slightly lower continuous power each) for the two shared of three circuits so that there were now five independent power supply and generator boards. (The most powerful hob is already independent.)

Potential maximum current draw for the unlikely case of simultaneous boost on five hobs would be of the order of 70A, perhaps, (about 60A for my Frigidaire), so an 80A breaker and ampacity cable should suffice.

Limitations would be the need for a fairly hefty and even less flexible cable from the breaker box than the 6AWG cable needed for the existing units, and the user would still be limited to 10 minutes or so for any hob unless the entire cooling system was significantly upgraded, perhaps including additional induction coil heat-sinking. (Even for the 10-minute case the cooling would have to be somewhat beefed up.) Unit depth into the cabinet below might be expected to increase by maybe 50% over existing unit depths. A ballpark 50% increase in purchase cost (assuming everyone who would buy the regular unit would buy the enhanced one instead) might be seen.

I don't expect such a capability to be needed by most. On the rare occasions that I need two power boosts at once for smallish pots, I just use one hob from the left pair and one from the center pair.

kas

I do not disagree with you, Kas, but if we go to all the trouble and expense of rewiring to accommodate a 70Amp range circuit, then the stoves would not need to mess with boost/power sharing strategies, would they? Wouldn't we just have higher power burners and have done with it? (Let's leave off the fact that nobody is making or selling such stoves for residential use, anyway.)

Brian: when you said: "I've never noticed a similar shift in power
when using multiple elements on a ceramic flattop or coil electric," You never noticed it because radiant smoothtops just go to the maximum burner power and no further. Induction ranges can go to max power (the equivalent of "H" on the smoothops or coil burners) but then shift power to boost one burner even higher. (Remember when Captain Kirk would say: "Mr. Scott, route all power to the forward shields..."?) It seems likely that your Samsung range hits the max with power setting number "9" which would be the "H" setting on a smoothtop equivalent range. Go over that setting and you are in the boost territory.

One other question for you and attofarad: do either of your Samsung or Electrolux manuals/user-guides say that 10 or "H" is a power shared setting? I'm asking because in the manual for the Samsung induction range that I'm familiar with --- freestanding model NE597NOPBSR --- it very clearly says you can run the two left burners on "H" simultaneously. Maybe that was not accurate or maybe things have been changed since then?

Also, by any chance, do either of you live in an area where power is supplied at 208v rather than 240v? I'm wondering if that could affect induction power settings?

"One other question for you and attofarad: do either of your Samsung or Electrolux manuals/user-guides say that 10 or "H" is a power shared setting?"

The electrolux manual just describes the power sharing (each side shares a single power supply), and says that power will be slightly reduced -- doesn't say only on H, or 9 or 8 etc. The PowerBoost (139% of H setting, 10 minute limit) description doesn't mention at all the power reduction due to sharing.

Even if the range did have separate power supplies to each burner, the overall cooling for the electronics would have to be an improved design. This cooling issue, and the decrease in lifetime that goes with higher component temperature, is probably why the boost setting is limited to 10 minutes use.

Here's what the manual says: "The cooking zones, which consist of paired cooking elements, are restricted to drawing a certain maximum amount of power ...." It goes on to indicate that for the small element on the right side (left side is not illustrated), if PB is selected for the large element, the small element drops to level 3.5. If PB is selected for the small element, the large element drops to level 5.5. If Hi is selected for either, the other one drops to Hi.

jwvideo: +1 for Star Trek reference.

I believe with the Frigidaire (working from memory here) that if a hob is on boost and another hob in the pair attempts boost, there will be beeps and the setting won't take. Conversely, if a hob is on 9 and the paired hob is set on boost, the boost works, but the hob that was on 9 drops to a lower value (not as low as 3.5 though). I'll have to test it when I have time to be less indefinite.

Kas --that's how I understood things were supposed to work.

Attofarad: Good point about electronics and cooling. In order to limit heat build up (or accommodate the appliance's cooling/heat dissipation limits), power usage may be limited even when not being shared.

Brian: So, have I got this right: although Samsung's manual says you should be able to run both right hand burners on H at the same time, in reality, the stove actually only allows one of those burners to be on H at a time and forces the other one to a lower setting?

Late to the conversation, but in case anyone is still reading this thread, I'd like to say that I have a high-end Viking gas range and a high end (Vollrath Mirage Pro) induction burner which I bought back when I had a rental kitchen with an electric range. Thus I've cooked extensively on both, and although not a full-sized induction range/cooktop, the Mirage Pro is at least as good as most and better than some (100 temperature settings, plus several temp control features that make it a top notch cooktop). I would not hesitate to go induction when it's time to replace our fancy range, at least if I can find a 48" induction range, which I have not yet seen on the marketplace. I use good cookware, mostly All-Clad and some Demeyere, and I have never had any buzzing issues on the induction burner, ever. Induction is MUCH easier to keep clean, as well as being faster and more responsive. For all of these reasons, I think induction is a no-brainer.

Yes, there are some drawbacks to induction, mostly (IMO) initial cost and lack of service technicians who know how to work on these units (make sure you buy from someone who knows induction!). But overall I think the pros outweigh the cons, especially as prices continue to drop.

I thoughtthis was a fair and well-balanced article about induction vs. gas, although maybe that's just because I am in the induction camp. Anyway, just my 2 cents, for anyone looking for info on this topic.

Our two reasons for ordering an induction range is easy cleaning of the cooktop. My wife hates the scraping. Second reason is safety. Small grandchildren in the house.

Other than the touch controls, induction has been great. Next time it will be one with knobs. Don't miss gas even a little bit.

We ordered the LG4617. It has large knobs. My wife wanted the large knobs For their appearance as well as function. However, they can be easily pushed by accident causing the burners to turn on. I have a bad habit of leaving bread, in its wrap, on top of the stove. Induction allows you to have those front knobs without the danger of a fire.

" Other than the touch controls, induction has been great. Next time it will be one with knobs "

Yup, knobs were one of my requirements, and I too went with the LG induction range.

absolutely no regrets!!! would never go back to anything else and had all types of cooking elements!

i like the sensors.,. i like the clean look of no knobs.

its been installed for 5 years and its been flawless, Miele 36"

I like no knobs too :-) ^^^^^^

I'm regretting Miele's KM 7000 series full surface induction cooktops announced for April 2019 may not be released in the US at that time. Here's the Press Release

Until you see it on the US website press release - you can’t count on it being in the US market. Good to know it is being introduced in Europe and other areas - US will follow eventually..

We are in the midst of the big induction versus gas discussion. Our son, who loves to cook, thinks fire is the way to go. He is the kind of cook that lifts the pan and shakes around what he is cooking, and would be frustrated if he had to turn back on the range every time he lifted up the pan. He can also be a little rough on things, so I worry about how the glass will hold up to his cooking style. On the other hand, it was his boiling over a pot of cream and sugar that made us think our dreams of a Bluestar might turn into a messy nightmare. We love the look, feel, heft of the bluestar, also like the gas oven. Thoughts?

jazger - You do not have to turn it back on after shaking the pan. what happens is that the controls blink when the pan is lifted and then go back to normal when the pan is put back. Yes, there is a time limit, but I don't think that normal shaking would exceed it. (The way it works on mine. YMMV)

Scratches don't appear to be a problem. After over two years of not very careful cooking and sliding pans around, I don't see any scratches. I'm not saying they couldn't happen, but it would take some effort.

Good to know Jerry. Thanks so much.

jazger - One thing that I've found is that you want pots with a thick base. Originally I purchased some All-Clad pots and they warped (I'll never trust America's Test Kitchen again). I now use Fissler which cooks very evenly. I still use the All-Clad for stir-fry and cooking where I lift the pan, and boiling pasta water, but 90% of stovetop cooking is done with Fissler. https://www.amazon.com/Fissler-original-profi-collection-Edelstahl-084-123-28/dp/B000JJGJA2

I have one Fissler pot I found at Marshall's, and I agree with Jerry, it's great. Initially I bought the set of Tramontina Tri-ply that imitates All Clad, and I like them, no warping, but they are very heavy.

For anyone still following this discussion (very helpful, thank you!), we’re wondering whether people who’ve gone the induction route have been able to use their cast iron cookwear without damaging/scratching the glass? Obviously you’d need to use cast iron with care. Just wanting to know from real world experience if it’s feasible as long as you’re careful?

Hi Stephanie,

One really cool thing about induction is that you can place a newspaper or towel over the cooking surface and put the pot over that. The towel stays cool because it's not magnetic. (You can find videos of people doing this on YouTube.) So if you're worried about scratching the surface of your cooktop, that is one solution. Having said that, I much prefer induction compatible stainless steel to cast iron with induction. Cast iron heats slowly and unevenly, and with induction being so fast, you can end up with a very unevenly heated pan if you're in a hurry and don't want to wait for the temp to equilibrate throughout the cast iron (which can take several minutes). I'm sure there are many who use cast iron with induction and love it. It works, it's just not ideal, IMO.

" Just wanting to know from real world experience if it’s feasible as long as you’re careful? "

Absolutely. I use it in addition to stainless steel, for different types of applications (I have a cast iron flat bottomed wok, as well as some cast iron frying pans). I frequently use paper towel under the cast iron, which helps with the slightly uneven surface.

I put a silpat down on the burner, and put my enameled CI Dutch oven on top of that. I find that the silpat helps pans that tend to slide on the glass top stay in place. One of the first things I tried was the "can I cook with ____ under my pan". I find paper towels tended to burn (likely due to heavy heat retention in my pans; the dish towel I tried scorched -likely the same reason; and the silpat has worked like a charm. I would love if I could find one the size of my cooktop area and just leave it there until it got to the point it needed cleaning.

I am in the process of purchasing a slide In induction range. I had cooked on gas all my life and had a terriblr adjustment to an upgraded GE glass top electric. We have no gas in our area. I just hate this electric cooking, very difficult to simmer and forget about waiting for a large pasta pot to boil,ugh! I am trying to decide between the Bosch 800 and the new GE Profile induction(with dials). I would appreciate any thoughts, there is a$1000 difference and my other appliances are GE profile.

You'll really enjoy cooking with induction, but your timing may be off at first because instead of putting a pot of water on to boil and then doing prep work, you do the prep work and then start the water boiling. Get the one with knobs, the touch screen is a pain unless you never spill or have wet hands. I don't have experience with either of those brands though.

Some of us, like Jerry, do prefer knob controls for induction ranges and cooktops, but is GE now offering a knob controlled slide-in induction range in their Profile line?

If so, could you provide a link as I think others will be interested.

Just did a quick check and did not have any luck in finding a knob-controlled Profile induction slide-in. The one I'm finding has circular "glide-touch" pads . Maybe that is what you meant by "dials"?

The only knob control GE induction models that I am finding are all in the Cafe line with prices starting at about $1k more than the Profile slide-in and $500 more than the Bosch 800 induction range (which has linear touchpad controls).

FWIW, you might get more responses by starting a new thread with your question. When you do, you may want check the boxes to have your question appear in some of the other forums here such as Kitchens and Cooking as well as Appliances.

jwvideo - I only read Gail's post where she said knobs, so I just thought knobs meant knobs. If it just means some kind of touch screen, then that's different. The Wolf I have has a touch screen and while the cooking part is fine, you have to watch it carefully to make sure it hasn't turned off due to spills or wet hands. Had the Bluestar with knobs been available when we did the remodel, that would have been the choice. I guess if you only use one pot or pan at a time and put it on the furthest burner from the controls, you'll be okay, but I usually have three or four and it's an issue.

I actually said “dials” GE does not use knobs on any slide in induction. The dials seem to work easier than the plus minus on my GE now.

Hi Gail, according to this article, the GE Profile is Consumer Reports no. 1 pick for induction range. I also know that it has a larger oven than the Bosch, FWIW. The Profile has cool finger swipe controls, but the Bosch has pretty easy-to-use controls, too (no menu that you have to scroll through). I think most people give the Profile higher ratings for usability, but IMO you really have to try both of them to decide which one you prefer. I don't think you can go wrong with either brand so if you want to save $$$$ get the less expensive one.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m just so nervous about purchasing the induction just to find I’ll hate it as much as the electric! Everyone says that won’t happen.

I really doubt you'll hate it. If electric is your only other option, then induction is a no-brainer! I love, love love induction. I have a gas range and when it dies, I hope to replace it with induction, THAT'S how much I love induction. (Right now I only have a portable induction burner, but a really nice one). My best advice is to go to an appliance dealership and ask questions and play around with the stoves. That's the only way you'll get a true sense of how it works.

Gail Taub -- Well, water boils very quickly and heat changes instantly as you adjust the settings. The kitchen will be cooler, and the energy use will be lower. Cleanup is a breeze, and because only the pan heats, the only hot part of the cooktop is just where the pan sits. And yes, you can lift the pan and toss. You do need ferrous metal pans (If a kitchen magnet sticks, the pan will work). I've found pans with a thick base, such as Fissler Original Pro work very well.

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I love my Bosch 800 induction. Mine is the cooktop but they're basically the same. I love the buttons over the dial because it's so much more precise. I turn on the cooktop, push which hob I want to use and then push the number for the temperature.

I also like that each hob has it's own timer.

I would absolutely get a Bosch over a GE. Bosch has excellent ratings for a reason. This is my second kitchen with Bosch appliances btw.

BTW: I will never go back to gas again since having induction. So much cleaner and more precise than gas. If I want to cook rice and go from a boil to a simmer, I can do it on the same hob because the hob will immediately cool down to the correct temperature.

And cleanup is a breeze. A spritz of windex and a paper towel cleans up the surface.

Expanding on both Hattiecarrol's and Jerry's responses to what you said about being nervous you might hate induction as much as the radiant electric you've been suffering with, let me offer the following.

One concern you mentioned is that you find it tough to get a good simmer with your current range which is a radiant electric glasstop model. Getting a good simmer should not be a problem with either the Bosch 800 or the GE Profile ranges. Both offer pretty fine control in the lower heat settings. That makes it easy to get any kind of simmer from still water poaching temps to barely bubbling stock-making temps to a near boil simmer. And, as cpartist points out, induction burners are very responsive and can very quickly take a pot between a full boil and any of those steps. Not possible with radiant electric except by moving the pot from the boiling burner to another one which is already set to your chosen simmer level.

Another aspect of getting a good simmer with radiant stoves can be that some of them make it hard to know where to set the knob/dial for the simmer you want. Both the Bosch and GE have digital controls which makes it easy to return to a particular power step once you've figured out that it is the power step that works for the task at hand..

At the other end of the heat settings, you want to remedy your current radiant electric taking a very long time to bring a large pasta pot to boil. Many radiant electric burners top out around 2500 watts although some newer models have burners going up to 3000 watts. That is a lot less power that is applied less efficiently than with the induction ranges. Both the Bosch and GE offer stronger power for boiling a "large pasta pot" with their 3700 watts on the large burners.

Also, I do not know how old your current radiant electric is or how big your large pasta pot is, but many of the older radiant ranges had difficulties with boiling larger diameter pots. Bigger diameter pots could reflect too much heat back to the sensors that regulate the power cycling on those radiant burners and so kept the power level too reduced to get to a full boil quickly if at all. Haven't seen much about that since this thread started back in 2012, but I can say that no similar problems have been reported here for either the Bosch induction burners or the previous generations of GE induction ranges.

As for choosing between the Bosch 800 induction slide-in and the GE Profile slide-in induction, it is pretty much a choice between mixes of feature trade-offs. Different tradeoffs and mixes of tradeoffs matter differently to different folks. There is no right answer for everybody. Some of these may matter a lot to you, others may matter only a little, and still others could be a matter of complete indifference to you.

One example that comes quickly to my mind is the burner arrangements. The GE puts the largest burner at the front right with its smallest burner behind in the back right corner and places two medium sized burners on the left. The Bosch 800 puts the largest burner more or less in the middle with two small burners in the front corners and a medium-size burner in the back left corner. Hard to think about how those designs work for your own cooking without taking some of your regularly used combinations of pot sizes to a store (as hattiecarroll suggested) where you can see how the pot combinations and sizes fit with burner positions and whether those positions work or don't work for the way you like to cook. BTW, the stove does not have to be powered on for this test and it might be a deciding factor for you. Another reason to try to see one in person.

Of course the brands' looks are different and maybe it matters to you that the GE may look more harmonious with the other GE appliances you have or are installing. Are you buying other Profile apliances? Ifso, maybe you get a discount for buying the GE range as part of an appliance package, too? That could be a pretty good financial incentive. OTOH, if you meant you already have the other appliances and are just hoping for a better appearance match, then this consideration is irrelevant for you.

The Bosch offers timer control for each burner, the GE does not. Some here (cpartist and me, included) have found timer controlled induction burners to be a useful convenience in their cooking. Others here could not care less about that feature. Likewise, the Bosch offers linear burner controls in the front middle of the cooktop surface with the oven controls in a spearate panel on the flat front face of the range while the GE puts the burner "dials" and oven controls in a separated, upward-angled panel at the front face of the range. There, you are less likely to get spills and boilovers on them and maybe makes the oven controls easier to see. The tradeoff there is that the GE arrangement leaves a little less usable depth to the cooktop surface.

More important would be whether you prefer the ergonomics of one brand's controls to the other. Again, hard to tell without seeing an actual stove and being able to put your hands on it.

The Bosch has a warming drawer under the oven but no surface warming burner while the GE has a storage drawer under the oven and a low-power radiant electric warming burner up top. Warming drawers and warming burners are very much a YMMV thing. Some of us have had them and hardly, if ever, used them while others here swear by theirs.

If you want more detail, other examples of design and feature tradeoffs that you might consider include the following:

* The GE Profile is designed as a freestanding range with finished sides (overhangs and edging are extra cost options) while the Bosch 800 is the more traditional style of slide-in with unfinished sides and a cooktop with flanges that overhang the countertops for a more "built-in" look (Bosch only offers trim kits for the rear of the range);

* As hattiecarroll mentioned, the GE Profile's oven is a bit larger at 5.3 cu. ft. (same size as your GE smoothtop) vs the Bosch 800's 4.6 cu. ft., Both are plenty big enough for many cooks. Does the differnce in oven size matter to your cooking? How big an oven do you need? (If it matters to you, the ovens in LG's knob-controlled induction ranges are rated at over 6 cu. ft.)

* The GE has some WiFi and bluetooth connectivity with the advantage of some kind of remote diagnostics. (Check out the manual to see what it actually does.) The Bosch does not.

* The GE Profile has two medium sized burners on the left which can be linked (or "synched") to work from a single control. That makes it easier to heat large burner-straddling griddle pans or large roasting pans. The Bosch 800 has a small and medium burner there which are not linkable but the Bosch 800 has a bit more room to fit a longer burner-straddling griddle. (FWIW, Bosch also offers an extra cost option for rectangular griddle pans that are specifically tailored to the depth of the Bosch's induction cooking surface.)

I'm sure there are other differences that can be listed, but the point is that none of these design choices and trade-offs are intrinsically better for everybody. Each stove is a mix of design tradeoffs and the mix that works best for me might not be the mix that appeals most to you.

I should say that I have a cooktop and a wall oven rather than a range. I find the combination works much better because there's no bending over and when the wall oven's doors are open, they take up less space, and you can get the best of each. Also should one other the other need service (no issues in three years) I would still be able to cook.

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One additional financial consideration in choosing between the GE Profile and Bosch 800 could be the location and type of the electrical connection on the back wall. The GE Profile induction will be plug-n-play with the same outlet as your current GE glasstop. That's probably a surface mounted outlet located at the bottom of the wall behind your range. You may have additional expense with the Bosch as (IIRC) the Bosch stoves require (a) that the outlet be located a foot or so above floor level and (b) flush mounted into the wall. Download and check the installation instructions for each to verify this.

I have a question regarding induction ranges/cook tops that I have yet to see answered in regards to the difference between cooking with gas vs induction. When cooking with gas, one can set the flame height and it will remain at that height, not varying until changed. Is this true with induction ranges/cook tops as well? We're in the middle of a home remodel and are living onsite during the construction. We set up a kitchen in one of our bedrooms and are using an induction hot plate. It cycles on and off, just like a traditional electric hob. If I'm making candy, the last thing I need from my cooking source is pulsating heat, as is the case with traditional electric heating sources. Thanks for your response.

Induction heat is controlled by pulsing, that's true, but full-sized cooktops have much more sophisticated controls than cheapie portables. I have a Vollrath Mirage Pro portable, which is a high end model. While most portables can be controlled by temp as well as wattage (power), you are correct that the cycling/pulsing makes for very uneven heating. This is not so with my Mirage Pro. I can set it to a temperature (from 80-450F) and it will hold that temp within +/- about 10F. Once it stabilizes, it will hold even more accurately than that.

So I can't speak for those with full-sized induction cooktops, but I imagine that at what you're paying for one, you'll get pretty accurate temp control. I would guess considerably more accurate than gas heat (with radiant electric a distant third). But I'll be curious to hear what others have to say about this.

You can't do better for candy than induction. (I used a 1920s Wagnerware "Drip Drop Roaster" dutch oven.) Sure, it pulses, but you don't notice and it maintains a very low low which is ideal for candy making.

Currently I'm a few kitchens away from my induction cooktop and I have a very nice high BTU gas stove. I was just thinking a few minutes ago, as I set up a cookie sheet over the burners to hold my pressure cooker how nice induction is, not just for the cooking, but for the smooth bit of countertop under the hood. Then I was notified of this post which apparently I'm subscribed to.

I can't be the only one who likes to put the Crockpot or Instantpot under the hood when making something smelly. And I really do miss chopping onions on the cooktop under the hood. My poor watering eyes!

Gas works when the power is off. It's good if you like to do stuff that required flame. For everything else, induction! I'm ready to go back. I prewired for it. :)

When cooking with gas, one can set the flame height and it will remain at that height, not varying until changed. Is this true with induction ranges/cook tops as well? We're in the middle of a home remodel and are living onsite during the construction. We set up a kitchen in one of our bedrooms and are using an induction hot plate. It cycles on and off, just like a traditional electric hob. If I'm making candy, the last thing I need from my cooking source is pulsating heat, as is the case with traditional electric heating sources. Thanks for your response.

Yes it holds the heat to whatever number you set it to. An induction cooktop is nothing like an induction hotplate. It's the difference between a Yugo and a Mercedes.