I went a little rambler-happy when I ordered for the cemetery. There are quite a few big trees there, and I basically picked one for almost every tree. If Brian the caretaker doesn't want them all, I just may keep one or two for myself -- and save the rest for another cemetery I'm already eyeing. This is what I've got sitting in pots right now: Brenda Colvin Kew Rambler Kiftsgate Mlle Cecile Brunner, CL Polyantha Grandiflora Rambling Rector Seagull The Garland Treasure Trove Violette Wedding Day summersrhythm -- If you got the real 'R. moschata', I'd recommend planting it against a wall or side of a house, facing south. Mine was getting hit hard by Winter, and this Spring I dug it up and moved it to where it got more sun. Hopefully, this will allow it to ripen more before Winter sets in. For you, I doubt it'd make much of a climber. Even where it's warmer, it's more of a big sprawling shrubby thing -- look at pics of it on HelpMeFind. Of course, there is the question of whether you got the real thing. Some places sell 'R. brunonii' under that name. Others sell something else entirely. BTW, what is "Thema"? I can't find anything about that one. Was it a typo? :-) ~Christopher

Hi, Matt, Thank you sooo much for sharing your tuberose growing experiences and wisdom. Appreciate it!! I am in zone 5, windy city Chicago , much cold area than NJ. All my tuberose have to grow in pot.I bought 3 single and 3 double tuberose bulbs along with whole bunch of other fragrant bloom bulbs from Edens Bloom. I have to say that I am a bit disappointed by quality of their bulbs... The single one are so tiny , they can't be called bulbs! They are just a bunch of dried roots. I doubt there are enough energy stored in them for them to last till next spring. Some bulbs I got have already have 3" new growth in the paper bag...There is no way I can keep them in dormant till next Spring. You are so right about "No bulb appreciates sitting in a bag all winter". After hearing your story, I am definitely go for your option #2 ... I am going to water them regularly, give plenty of sunlight, and fertilizer to encourage them to grow the best they can throughout the winter time. Hopefully by starting them early, when next fall comes, they would catch up and bloom. Although, I am somewhat patient. If it does not bloom next year, it is Ok. I can wait for them to grow stronger and put out a bigger spike of flowers the year after. Do you find they are easy to start growing or take long time for them to start to grow from bulbs? I have never grown tuberose before, I am not sure if some of the bulbs are still alive. Talking about growing Brugs. in ground, I am so envy you... I have three, each is in half-whiskey barrel size pots that need to be moved inside to the basement soon... Image what my back will say--leave them outside. Again, Matt, You have been great help. Thank you!!!!

I would recommend that you get one of these non-contact probes. They are great for testing if a circuit is live or not. You just touch it to the outside of the hot wire and it will show a red light and beep if it is live. Non-Contact Voltage Tester RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: gpraceman (My Page) on Thu, May 9, 13 at 12:25 Not sure what happened with my last post. It won't even let me edit it. Here is what I mentioned. Here is a link that might be useful: Non-Contact Voltage Tester RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: Angie_DIY (My Page) on Thu, May 9, 13 at 14:25 I poked a hole in the drywall and found the metal box connected to a 2" x 4" with wires capped with nuts, a properly tied off circuit. Let me take the opportunity to make a PSA: if this is indeed still powered, it is NOT a properly tied off circuit. You are not allowed to cover a junction box that has live wiring in it. (Not that it hasn't been known to happen!) So, it is possible that these wires are live, or it is possible that they were disconnected somewhere "upstream" from this box. You said "x-post," but I don't see a message from you on the wiring forum. I would definitely consult the wiser folks there! (EDIT: I found your question on the bottom of another thread. I would start a new thread on that forum, including the picture you showed us.) Roger what gpraceman said. Let me expound a little. I cannot quite tell what is going on in that box, either. To me, it looks like only 2 wires. I see one white one and one that was formerly red or formerly black. It is conceivable that there is a third one, but am not sure with the shadows, etc. My understanding is that the metal jacket was used, in the bad, old days, as the ground wire. I would hazard a guess (as I think gpraceman implies) that you probably have found the 120 V circuit. The safest thing to do would be to use the non-contact probe that gpraceman references. If it is live, you could determine the circuit breaker that turns it off. Then you could turn it off while setting up the next test, and turn it back on after getting set up. Or just be very careful =8^) If you had a voltmeter, you should (carefully) test the AC voltage: A-between the white wire and the box B-between the black wire and the box, and C-between the white wire and the black wire. If it is a 120V circuit, you should get A=0V, B=120V, C=120V. If it is a 240V circuit, you should get A=120V, B=120V, C=240V. If it is an old 240V circuit without a neutral conductor, don't use it. Call an electrician. This post was edited by Angie_DIY on Thu, May 9, 13 at 14:37 RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: EAM44 (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 0:45 Thanks so much both of you for your input. It is indeed a 120V with white=neutral, purple=live, and as they are so fond of doing in the midwest, box=metal, as is conduit all the way back to the panel that is grounded = ground, so no ground wire. That non-contact probe looks so cool. Alas, Lowes did not have it. I bought a really cute little multimeter, tested the wires, and attached a 15A outlet today. The readings are as they should be, no reversed polarity, ground is grounded. All looks good. Tomorrow I skimcoat the drywall, then sand and paint. Alarm guy comes Saturday. One more question - there has to be a 240V (not A, forgive me) in that wall somewhere. I really thought that this outlet was capped off properly. The wires were capped, they were in a box, and there was 1" plywood over the box opening to keep someone from nailing into it. I would guess the 240 was handled the same way - is that a problem? The X post was on the wiring forum where the op was instructed to cap off an unused outlet in exactly this way. If I do have to dig and deal with this, I will call a pro. This is out of my league as I have no idea how to kill a live wire. Thanks again. RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: gpraceman (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 0:56 If they dead ended the wiring in the old gang box for the dryer, I would think that they also dead ended the breaker panel end as well. You should definitely verify that. Does the house still have an electric dryer? RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: Angie_DIY (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 8:53 The problem wasn't the way the wires were capped; that was proper. The problem was covering up the junction box and drywalling over it. You need to retain access to j-boxes that have live wiring over it. I think it should be clear to you right now (!) why it is a problem to cover it up! The post on the wiring forum was implicitly saying this (in addition to the instructions about capping the wires inside the box). gpraceman: it sounds like they did not disconnect the 120V circuit before covering it up. I see no reason to believe they disconnected the 240V circuit! If you need to find the circuit, I think an electrician will have a tool that allows him or her to trace the wires. I have never used one, but have seen it used once. They attach a device to the wire to be traced, say at the circuit box end. I presume it puts a high-frequency signal on the wire. They can then follow the wire with a receiver device. (Hmm, If that is how it works, I wonder if it works with armored (metal-jacketed) cable....?) RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: EAM44 (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 9:28 So this box with capped wires should have been covered with a metal plate that sits proud of the drywall, not filled with wood and drywalled over. Got it. What a drag if they did that with the 240 as well. Yes we still have an electric dryer that is now in the basement. Maybe they re-routed the wiring for that? I could just pop the drywall off the entire wall and look. If there is more wiring, I could get the cool non-contact probe and a proper box cover that I drywall around. Would that be correct? I don't mind patching and skimcoating, but hate drywalling, and it sounds like I've got more of it in my future (grumble, expletive deleted). Thanks again so much. RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: gpraceman (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 12:27 They probably left that 120V circuit live since there were other outlets on that circuit. Still, they should not have buried the junction box behind the wall. If you still have an electric dryer, then they likely disconnected the end of the old line at the breaker to install the new line. I do think that you should try to find the old junction box and make sure it is done proper. Some rental places may have one of those snake cameras that you can use to explore inside your walls by just drilling a small hole in the drywall. That would save you some patching work. RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: Angie_DIY (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 13:45 gpraceman: Ahh, I see -- you are probably correct that they are much more likely to have disconnected the 240V circuit. It is not like there are scads of 240V, high-current breakers sitting in your breaker box. EAM: Following that argument, I would look in the area of your breaker box (dist. panel) for remnants of the old 240V circuit. Usually, it is a PITA to reroute wiring, so you just disconnect it and leave it in place. You may find a loose or cut-off end near the breaker box, or you may find capped wires in the box itself. Post a Follow-Up Your Name: Your Email Address: Subject of Posting: Message: Optional Link URL: Name of the Link: A copy of your follow-up will automatically be emailed to the original poster. Return to the Kitchens Forum Here is a link that might be useful: Non-Contact Voltage Tester

MizLizzie, It is very nice of you to share the issue with Cambria since we are thinking about using man-made hard surface for kitchen counter in the upcoming kitchen remodel. The incompetent fabricator messed up counter top edge and sink cut out in our hall bath. I have no confidence in him of redoing the counter top, I worry if he would make things worse by damaging connected backsplash, cabinet, faucet and sink. It has been two months; the poor work still bothers me so I know I would never be able to accept it. We too have demanding jobs and frequent business travels. We are trying to find the best time slot for the rework. Congratulations for your childâÂÂs college graduation. Ours finished his graduate school last May. After the ceremony, we parents congratulated one another and jokingly shared the tips of calculating pay back rate for the bailout loans we provided. It was a lot of fun. This post was edited by azmom on Thu, Jul 4, 13 at 12:31