Eggs stuck to my Calphalon One first time I used it!
mickeyluvr
16 years ago
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velodoug
16 years agoRelated Discussions
My first egg
Comments (5)Yep, TR Forester, I keep chickens. Pamela thanks for the link, I will check that out! The biggest reason I built the tractor was to remove some of the large insect population in my yard. I also compost (where I know Forester from) and have a whole new population of insects related to that. I really want less snails, slugs and pincher bugs. All the rest of them gone is a bonus! To get the ground really vacuumed, I move the tractor every day. It is amazing what they will do to an 8X10 patch of ground in 24 hours! I only have five chickens, and they are so well fed from the environment, it is tough to get them to eat kitchen scraps. Might help if I had a few more, but I don't so I'm working with what I have. Silly girls are out eating cherry tomatos off the vine, but wouldn't touch them when they came out in the scrap bucket. Steep learning curve for me here....See MoreCalphalon One Vs. Vollrath Cookware
Comments (23)I just picked up a generous set of Vollrath HG-Pro cookware at the Seattle Home Show for $429. After the demonstration and talking to the rep for a bit, I was willing to give non-stick a try again. I have been using a few pieces of fully anodized Caphalon for years. In my book, the permanent "stick resistance" of anodized is better than the "non-stick for awhile" I've experienced in the past (I have one Caphalon non-stick that has degraded in performance over the years, even after cleaning per Caphalon recommendations. I may send it in). I cooked up my usual 4 whites + 1 yolk omelet this morning on the new pan, sans oil (except for initial seasoning), and almost spilled the finished omelet on the floor when I lifted the pan off the burner. I was not prepared for the eggs to slide around unprovoked like that. If this kind of non-stick performance lasts, then I'll be very pleased. The Vollrath pans are lighter than my Caphalon. They heat faster, and about as evenly. The rivets and outside sides of the pan are non-stick as well, which is nice. The bottoms are machined flat and stamped with the Vollrath and NSF seals, company address, and model number. The bottoms are exposed raw aluminum. This can leave gray/silver marks on other surfaces, such as on my cast iron burner grills. All-in-all, the set seems to be a reasonable value. If the "ceramic-titanium reinforced" non-stick really is permanent, even when using metal utensils, then the set will have been an excellent value. I just wish they had anodized the pan bottoms instead of leaving them bright and prone to marking other surfaces. Perhaps they will oxidize in time. -- Geoff...See MoreCalphalon One vs. Scanpan??
Comments (23)I've had 2 sets of Scanpans - the first I had for 30 years and the 2nd I bought for my son 5 or 6 years ago. The original Scanpans were not truly nonstick, they were stick RESISTANT. I used mine heavily and they lasted. But I have to say, the pans I bought for my son are *even better*. The new Scanpans really are totally nonstick. They don't "scratch" from the point of view of scratching through the surface alloy. They don't peel, blister, or otherwise wear through. My son's pans lived in his bachelor household for the first 3 years or so with 3 to 4 other bachelor roommates. They had cast iron stacked in them. They had metal utensils used on them. They got banged around, misused, abused, and generally were treated very very badly indeed. Yup, there are scuff marks on the bottom, but you know what? They are still absolutely non stick. Not only that, not a single pan has warped, discolored, or otherwise shows any damage. According to Scanpan, if you start to lose some of the nonstick ability, use Barkeepers friend and it will restore them. These haven't needed that yet. Yes, it's true - if you don't clean them properly they will build up gunk that will interfere with the nonstick coating because it's COVERING it. That's what they meant when they sent the pan back and said it hadn't been cleaned properly. The way to clean them is to stick them under cold running water straight off the stove - the bottoms are thick enough this will not warp them. If you don't like doing that (I only do it once in awhile myself but its all good so far anyway) you can boil water with some baking soda, or as I mentioned earlier, take some barkeepers friend to them. I had one pan - ONE - that blistered, and it was because of misuse on my part. There was food in it, which was stored in a refrigerator. Well unbeknownst to me, my brother sold that fridge and had it hauled away without my knowledge. By the time I realized what had happened, the food had been sitting out on the counter and it had molded. The mistakes were 2-fold: 1, don't EVER store food in one of these pans, and 2, for heavens sake don't let moldy food sit around in one at room temperature in the summer! If in 30 years of use and abuse (I am not at all shy in my handling of my cookware) that was the only time I had any damage, I think it's a good bet that somebody did something wrong somewhere if every single pan flaked. I'm not sure that can even happen with the new Scanpans, even if abused as above. The "wrong thing" may have been a manufacturing error - in which case Scanpan would replace the product, if it was sent back. Instructions for restoring nonstickiness or getting something stuck off: Boil with dishsoap, then clean as usual (I didn't measure the dish soap, just glopped some in and it worked ok) one tablespoon of baking soda per 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil and let boil for 5 minutes. Turn off heat and let stand 30 minutes. Clean pans. Make a paste of water and Barkeeper's friend. Scrub the interior surface to remove built up gunk. According to the manufacturer, this is how to restore your finish if it's built up gunk over time. BTW, do not EVER use Pam on this or any other nonstick surface. There is other stuff in Pam besides just oil, and that other stuff will build up a gunky surface that will cover the actual surface and make your pans sticky. If you've done this on a Scanpan, go at it with the Barkeeper's friend....See MoreMy first time to use real pesticides - Fenitrothion / Permethrin
Comments (4)Thanks, but I finished applying fenitrothion to the grapes yesterday. At least that's what I think it is. The tradename on the bottle is "Sumichion" or Sumithion, licensed in Japan as pesticide #4962. I believe this is the same as Fenitrothion?, but it's difficult with the translations. It's advertised as a broad range, knock-down pesticide that will also take out Japanese beetles. They die when they eat the leaf. Apparently it's being used here popularly for a long time. I'm supposed to stop spraying with this one 30 days before harvest of large grapes, 90 days before harvest of small bunched grapes. Maximum of two applications per season. The restrictions are a lot more relaxed on some fruit like peaches, up to three days before harvest, maximum six applications per season. According to my tanslator it has less of a product warning than Carbaryl. It's supposed to have no effect on warm blooded creatures, but you should not use it around a pond or on invertebrates. It has a strong odor, and turns milky when you mix it with water. Not sure if I have to spray the underside of leaves, or just over the top side of the canopy is good enough? Lots of unanswered questions about pesticides here, but this is the best I could do....See MoreBumblebeez SC Zone 7
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