Check with your local planning department. With 10" ducting, you definitely need a roof jack that doesn't constrict air flow. The standard Vent-A-Hood recommended roof jack is fairly low profile. It seems unlikely that it wouldn't comply with your local wind resistance standards. Are you sure it's not just your roofer's resistance to using something different from what he usually installs? It's a pretty sure bet that yours isn't the only house in Miami-Dade County with a 900 cfm Vent-A-Hood.

Good luck with your project - you'll need it ... just kidding. Many more decisions will be dropped in your lap as this begins to move forward. We have just completed (well almost) our kitchen renovation after about a 2 year contemplation and 3 + month construction phase. One item I was adamant about was an effective range hood. We suffered for years with the integrated vent on an Advantium. This thing is useless as a hood - see earlier posts by me in archives.?? Great appliance however and we would never be without it - 220 model. We just moved the thing to another area above our countertop and bought a real hood. Don't fret too much over the cost. You'll regret it later if you cheapen out. As my dear old dad always says - "It's only money, doesn't hurt you here or there, only in the back pocket for a while". The time you are spending coming up with ideas and making selections plus the labor cost or your time if DIYing it, is more than the added cost of getting the better appliance - IMHO. Plus once you finally get through this you will not want to do anything again to make changes. We did decide to go with a Best by broan Model UP27E (inline or external fan) since our range is only a 30" - we kept existing range since wife is happy with it and fairly new GE Electric Profile. 30" range has only 4 burners plus a bridge but not the btu of your 36" . We have the 600 cfm inline fan using 10" duct. It works marvelous and do not see the need for more as of yet. Summer may change that but I doubt it. We vent through a sidewall in attic space so no pentration in roof which I would advise against roof units. SLight vibrating noise from unit however and I will try using rubber isolation mounts on inline motor unit in attic which should help minimize that. Motor itself does hum somewhat also and I believe that is a function of the type of motor/speed control. Best should offer an option to upgrade fan motor to a better style of variable speed type control. HOod design is something I looked at before making decision since I belief these flat bottom screen types are not near as efficient as the baffle / capturing designs. IF using a less efficient hood design up the blower cfm. Also the greater the cfm the larger the ducting will need to be. These are low pressure blowers which need a large surface area in duct size to move enough air. And yes you should consult mfgr specifications for proper cfm to btu of range. Remember you can always turn the speed down but you can not make it flow more than it can handle. Regarding cost - remember that the biggest part may be installation not the price of the unit! So if a contractor is giving you a price for the unit and installation then of course it will be much higher than what you can purchase it for yourself. these remote blower units are much more work than an integrated hood. Electric must be run to 2 locations as well mechanical work on 2 locations. MAke sure HVAC guy does install properly - not too long a duct run and minimze turns. Also ask him to use rubber isolation mounts for you under blower :) I'll try posting elswhere on this forum some of our other experiences during KR. Here is a link that might be useful: Best hood UP27E

@lapetsmail: I'm glad this helped you out! An update on mine.... I'm finding that the "back" bearing (the one opposite of the squirrel cage fan seems to have the most stress. Fortunately that one is easiest to reach when on the hood to shoot some spray lubricant to quiet it back down until the next time I take it apart. I took the extra bearings and took apart the side seals carefully with a needle. The balls and races were cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Then I pressed in some automotive synthetic grease into the bearings and replaced the seals. This should increase the lifetime of these tiny bearings.

Heh! Yes, mattress is a very good example. This is why ca. 2007 I started reading up on kitchen ventilation so I could ignore the magic that was being asserted and determine for myself what was needed. In a hood, most of the effectiveness is embedded in the sheetmetal shapes and the blower motor and fan. I rarely hear of fan failures (I can only recall one on this forum). Broan absorbed NuTone that used to provide a lifetime guarantee. Wolf uses Broan. If the hood exterior is non-magnetic stainless steel, it shouldn't ever rust or develop surface staining. What tends to fail in lower quality hoods are fan and light switches. These hoods may have thinner sheet metal, but that is not a point of failure. It might have a relationship with rattles. Mean time to failure with electronics will typically decrease with increased parts count. So some risk of shorter lifetime may be present where fancy motor control circuits are in use. It is fine to go shopping and look at hoods from the point of view of ease of use or lighting or construction quality, or aesthetics of design, but nothing should be purchased until you have gone through the process of understanding what you need a hood system to do and what its parameters have to be to achieve it. Since modern higher performance residential hoods for pro-style cooking equipment derive their requirements from commercial cooking ventilation, you may wish to start by downloading and reading the first dozen or so pages of the Greenheck Guide: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf