The power supply is from Delta Electronics of Taiwan. With only 4 USB ports on the rear and 1 on the front you may not have any concerns about power. Probably pay to ensure any external drive you might consider should have it's own power source. Using the Newegg link below you can click on the photo of the case to enlarge it plus have the opportunity to see 12 view including the inside. Use the zoom tool on the side view and you can see the CPU fan blows front to back with a secondary fan almost behind it to remove the heat Also the offer of a free update to Windows 7 is nice. Been using Windows 7 for a while now and even on my ancient P4 it does very well. The i7 920 Nehalem CPU alone is listed at $288.99 at Newegg. Notice the separate video card can support two monitors if you so choose and with 1 gig of video RAM it should be incredibly good. Overall it looks a very nice machine but cramped inside if you need to work replacing anything. The $100 off is smoke and mirrors, everybody seems to have it at $1,199.99 Here is a link that might be useful: User reviews at Newegg

I use Printpal and have been pleased with the results. They have free shipping available and it has been prompt. I did receive a defective 3rd party HP cartridge from them a couple of years ago. They replaced it without question and included a postage paid container to return the defective cartridge.

Is stainless steel AC copper-cored? Mine don't have any copper trim bands, just SS inside and out with "something" inside them - I never gave it much thought, I guess. In the "old days" the only AC styles I was aware of were the SS and ones with an anodized black coating on the exterior similar to Calphalon, which was at the time the much-promoted "high-end" brand. Mine are shiny SS inside and out, well, except for one square grill pan with rounded ridges on the bottom, which has to be the most useless pan I've ever owned. My DH bought it for me as a gift so I can't really get rid of it. It doesn't work on induction, but then since it's such a stupid, useless pan in general it's hard to tell the difference between using it on high BTU gas (where it certainly ought to work) and induction (where it can't work). But I digress.... Re portable induction units: they can be had at Target/Wal-Mart for less $100, but with a caveat - those are generally not very powerful so some pots that don't work on them may be OK on a regular induction cooktop. There are many other portable models available ranging up to about $500. My own, a Viking, has been very satisfactory and gotten hard use as we are using it as the main (only) burner during our marathon reno, now going on for more almost five years. I think it had an MSRP of @$400, but I got it on sale locally for about $275-300, I think. I've had it since 2009. I'll add a link below to the induction burner that I use. My SIL has a cheaper one (no idea which brand) and she is not very happy with it. I especially like the control knob and the size on the Viking. I am not suggesting you buy it from Amazon, just using them as an exmaple of what mine looks like. I see in some of the Amazon reviews of my unit that some are saying that Le Creuset doesn't work on it. That is not my experience, though I use quite old LC (My Mother's from the '60s) with completely smooth bottoms. It's possible newer ones have little rings on them. What happens when there's a ring is that the pan is raised far enough away from the unit that the cooker can not sense a pot and won't turn on. (That's why my fave little fried egg skillet doesn't work. Its ring is about 1/8" high.) A lot of my pots are still packed up, but I regularly use a variety of LC-style knock offs on the induction (Martha Stewart, and no name ones, and assorted old ones I inherited). I only own one Lodge CI pan as I simply loathe them, though I am very happy with my other cast iron pans. My DH adores food with stripes so I finally gave in and bought the Lodge ridged grill pan. The pan is OK, if somewhat crudely made. But the foul "non-stick" coating that they put on to try and make the rough surface workable, is awful. But it makes lovely stripes - my DH would probably eat sheetrock if I put grill marks on it. Customer service at Lodge told me the coating can be removed and the pan ground down and re-surfaced to make it smoother, but that's a big project which hasn't gotten on my to-do list, yet. If you do decide to jump completely on the induction band wagon and get an induction cooktop or range, I suggest you enlarge your stock of vintage cast iron pans, which are often very cheap and much nicer and lighter than Lodge. My old Griswold and Wagner cast iron shillets and dutch ovens (most about 100 years old) work like gangbusters on induction. Many manufacturers are now making induction, or all-cooking methods, cookware now, so it's not hard to find what you want. And you can always ask on cooking forums if a brand you are considering will work on induction. Induction is common-enough now so that people will be able to tell you readily. I am not not entirely converted to induction - still on the fence with it and I am certainly not ready to switch completely. I still really prefer cooking with gas. I think people who are presently using electric coil, electric radiant and smooth glass cooktops will find induction much, much, better. As will people who are presently using ordininary gas ranges. But if you've gotten used to a high BTU gas range, you're kind of spoiled. Plus gas works even when there's a power outage, which is a big deal for me. My gas range will probably outlast me so it's a moot question. But I am planning on integrating some induction capacity into my ever-evolving kitchen plans. There was a neat picture posted this weekend that showed a small portable cooker mounted in a drawer that was pulled-out to use. That particular burner turned out to be radiant electric (not induction) so it had a lot of safety concerns, but as a storage position for the Viking unit, it offered lots of possibilities. I was very intrigued HTH, L. Here is a link that might be useful: Link to Viking Induction Unit on Amazon

a replica would be fine provided the designers did not replicate the mistakes that sank the first one. 1. Better water tight compartments and controls. 2. Dohble hulled below the water line. 3. Emergency power higher up in the ship. 4. Install a real Captain who knows how to handle emergencies or better yet, how to avoid disaster in the first place. 5. Do not compromise the life boats. (On the maiden voyage of the Titanic, about half of the life boats had been stowed away to reduce 'clutter'.) 6. Run safety drills while in port or very soon after embarking. 7. Do not put disabled passengers more than one deck away from the main excape deck. 8. When in dangerous waters, operate the boat accordongly. Better yet, avoid dangerous waters.