Electrolux has made many engineering changes to that oven, and they have played around with the location of the thermal cutoff. The model number you posted is incomplete, what's the full model number? There should be a character after the "GS". Only the model number off the sticker on the oven itself will contain that extra digit, it won't be on your receipt or the manual.

Not only did I forget the last number but the 65 is a 55.

The correct model is

EW30EW55GS6

The thermal cutoff is now called "Range High-limit" Thermostat
Part #: 318578506"

I can not find a great picture of that high limit sw, (so far) but the pictures I looked at seem to indicate, "it is NOT a resettable switch,(by pushing a button on it).

More than likely it is supposed to reset itself, once it cools down below its set temp, and is a "possible source" of the problem you have with your oven.

Be sure oven is disconnected from all power, and using an ohmmeter, the terminals on the switch should show continuity between the 2 lugs on the switch.

You can see the drawing of where the thermal switch is here

http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/R1010154-00002.png

It's not an expensive part.

Good luck with it!!! and let us know if that was the problem with your oven.

Gary

Thank you. I will check. Over the weekend I took the oven apart and found a device ("119" on the diagram) which is where the RHL switch is supposed to be. It was not a push button type like you said. So I put the oven back together again.

I don't mind taking it apart again but it will have to wait till the weekend. That should give me time to buy the part just in case it is faulty. I would not want to take that whole thing apart again to replace it. I also don't want to have it in pieces until the part arrives.

It is under a lot of insulation and difficult to reach, so I have to figure out how to remove the door lock. This time I think I will remove the door and door lock before taking it all apart. This should help with getting under that insulation to access the RHL switch for testing.

Thank you again for the info.

Yes , as you saw , that thermal switch is 119 on the diagram.

Gary

There seems to be a thermal switch on the top of the oven on the shroud for the ventilation fan which looks just like the pictures of this part. The device I found on the oven under the insulation looks slightly different. It is taller and thinner and bronze as opposed to black plastic. The connectors and wires are also insulated with a white braid. If I trace the wires from the back of the unit, I think they are brown which is what the circuit diagram shows as the thermal cut off wire colors. The fan thermostat also has the same brown wire.

I still have to pick up the part at the local store. But the weekend is still a day away.

I took off the top and right side. Pulled back the insulation and found the oven light and the cooking probe jack. But no thermal cut off switch.

There is a relay on the controller board, T9AV5L12-12 which controls power into the unit. Is there a way to test this relay? I ask because i took the oven apart and there is no thermal cut off switch.

There is a thermo couple on the fan shroud with brown cable as indicated in the circuit diagram. But it does not show it is open. >>1 ohm.

I replaced the Thermal Cut Off with no result. I tested across the leads without it installed and I get the same resistance >>1 ohm on the new TCO same as the old one.

I also put a volt meter from one of the leads of the thermal cut off to the chassis and the relay kicks on and off, 0 to 115v to 0 every minute or so. Same result on both sides of the TCO. Same with the broil and same with the oven setting. Neither will heat the oven.

The elements show little resistance so I assume that they are still working. It is also difficult to believe that K3, K5 and K7 relays are also bad.

I don't have an inductive pick up so I am not sure how to measure if there is a current draw when I hear the relay kick.

Looking at the wiring diagram you will see where all the heating elements tie together then go through a thermal switch called THM.

So far I have not been able to locate the physical location of this thermal switch , in the oven , nor a part number.

it is just called THM and there is no link to it in the parts section, grrrrrr.

I would try to call Electrolux, Monday, and see if they can help.
Meanwhile , if I turn up something, I will let you know.

All you can do in the mean time is try to follow the wires that go to the oven's heating elements.

Of Course Elux "may have" made changes to this oven since this wiring diagram was published, but I bet my money there is "Still" some over temperature protection device", just gotta find where that lil succer is hiding!!!

Gary

Well, did you get the oven fixed?

Somebody else here may experience the same problem
that you had, and would appreciate knowing what it took to fix it!

Gary

I find most issues with poor heating turn into control board issues. sensors on ovens are usually pretty reliable. If a thermal limit is out it usually won’t heat at all good luck

https://www.appliancerepairfortsmith.com/greenwood

Yep, it was in-fact a control board. I had a resistor burned out and what I assume was the thermal limiter or relay was also burned out on the control board. $250 later (not including the element and probe) and it‘s right as rain.

This is about the only place I've seen any good specific information about this issue. Recently my Electrolux Double Wall Oven, Model #: EW30EW65PSB, S#: AF44306118, has been taking an eternity to preheat. Once it's hot, it seems to cook well. I saw where some have said the the Thermal Cut-off Switch (fuse), or whatever this model calls it, will cause on leg of the 220 lines to go out and the oven is running on 110V only. It makes sense as only one of the heating element lights on the display will come on. Either the upper element, and it does Broil, or the lower, Bake, but not both at the same time, Preheat. The Convection fan works as do the controls and the oven lights. So, my question is "where is that part located?" I found that it is p/n: 5304494446, but where is it located on my oven? I found some exploded view drawings, and one showed the part off to the side, but didn't show where it was in the oven. And since mine is a double oven, are there two of these? You may be my last hope. I don't want to take the oven out and start hunting for it, but that may be next. Thanks

@joepiccaso53

You're having this problem in both ovens? What do you define as an "eternity" to preheat? Have you noticed any performance differences trying the different heating modes separately?

Only one element per oven coming on at a time and the control cycling between them is completely normal operation - your circuit doesn't have the capacity to run all the elements for both ovens at the same time.

I just checked the parts list, your oven has 3 safety thermostats - one for each oven, and a third (higher temperature one) that shuts off both ovens. If a thermostat were the problem were the problem none of the elements in the applicable oven(s) would heat. The thermostats break one of the 220 lines, correct, but at that point 120 will only be supplied to the parts that run on 120V ie. control board, lights, etc. The 220V elements could not heat with the thermostat open because they would no longer be part of a complete circuit! And if they did still heat, the concept of a safety thermostat would be rather pointless, no?

Long preheat usually indicates one of the elements in a given oven is not heating, which isn't a thermostat problem. I would be looking for bad connections and failed elements. Having this problem in both ovens would be coincidental, but I've seen weirder things.

Yes, both ovens and the exact same thing in both at the same time. They heat in each function, even Broil. Just very slowly. One of those repair websites said that that Thermal fuse or switch will cause that. Most are resetable. the thermostats appear to be operating acuratly. My Delimma is, where are they located?