if it were my kitchen to redo (leaving the sink where it is for plumbing) I get a counter depth fridge and put on the south wall, move the stove down to about where the fridge is now (leaving a space for countertop to each side of it), put the DW where the stove is, then I'd even skinny up that penisula with maybe cabinets at 12" depth under it. I'd also round out the corners of the counter top of the penisula (then 2 people could sit at the end - at each 'corner'). there'd still be room on the south wall for a pantry and the far wall by the dining room could be a computer / message / book / study area. depending on how much etc the penisula got skinnied up there might be room for the DW to the right of the sink even and then the stove could go midway on the west wall (figuring that's west). I'd put in banks of drawers on either side of the stove and to the right of the sink (if DW not there). probably no drawers on the skinny cabs under the penisula (unless custom cabs). depending on exactly how i worked it I'd also try to have a trash bin under cabinet close to the sink (maybe under sink?) I don't see the need to push a fat fridge back into the bathroom etc and use money that could go for a window. windows are a priority on my list. big windows! lol! with the stove moved farther down, maybe the sink could move a bit to the left making room for the DW to it's right. I'd prefer that and would try to get that to work out. hopefully there's no rule that says the sink has to be centered. I'd rather it off center w/ a big window than centered to a small one.

The problem / challenge I realized with the earlier layout with symmetric high uppers over sink is that actually it wasn't symmetric over the sink. There is a light right in front of the sink and then the notch would be off center of the light in the ceiling-- at this point I can't change the lighting. (horrible electrician experience, but that's another story). If we make the cabinet on the right wood over glass then it really wants to be wider. This then makes the notch narrower and throws off the geometry. Our other contender was to do a double-upper over the fridge and then put a regular vert in the corner which could be a blind corner if we want, like this: (I put some glass/steel above the sink--this might be an alternate color tile, or something else... or nothing...) DW prefers either an all wood or all glass cabinet over dish washer so we can put 2 shelves in it, as this will be for cups and mugs. She thinks it would look funny to have a shelf inside 1/3 of the way up the cabinet with a split wood/glass door. Also, she (and our architect) didn't really like the single vert cabinet in the corner of the run. Same views, single vert at end, with shiny stuff: Our architect says this view is misleading, in that your eyes will never just see the one wall. So the end of peninsula view is probably the most telling: The rendering is also probably misleading because we have been thinking of using obscure glass, which is not nearly as shiny as this shows. The app just doesn't have a good texture to simulate that. I think I like it better overall with the single vert at the end-- it's a bit less busy, a bit calmer? I would like it maybe a bit more with the single vert a bit wider and the double upper on the same wall a bit narrower, but I want to keep the single vert to be really close to the height of the wood cabinet to its left (now it's 1 inch wider). Between the corner and the double upper there is 3" filler, plenty to allow the door to swing up and not hit handles on the adjacent corner cabinet next to the range. I could maybe increase this another inch and reduce that cabinet by an inch and then make the vert 1 inch wider, but that's about it. Another option would be to make the vert door all glass--but then it would be the only one like that.

First thank you all for commenting. When I break ground I plan on starting a new thread and will start with a link to all the previous threads, including this one, which is why I wanted to make sure this one was updated with the "latest and greatest" in the exterior elevation. In fact last night I was looking over some of the old threads and was aghast at what I actually started with. While the original layout wasn't terrible, the elevations were ghastly. LOL. (And I'm being kind.) I'm truly thankful that so many of you stuck with me on my journey so far and were so helpful in getting my house to where it is now. A special shoutout to the architects, especially Renovator8, Virgil and ARG. Thanks Russ. I like it. How wide is it from window to window including the door and your trim? what change did you make to your friend's entry? Thank you ILoveRed. In the drawing above from window to window is probably a bit too wide in the elevation but it's correct on the plan. So it will probably be just a bit narrower, but I wanted to have it to show the builder how I wanted it built. It's about 9 1/2' from trim edge to trim edge. Oops. Here's the friend's entry. I've been debating about the molding around the outer frame of the door entry. With or without? On the right side elevation, what is the band under the study windows? That's actually behind the master (for now until we change it) but it's the A/C and pool equipment. Both need to be enclosed according to code. However I will NOT have AC's below my bedroom window, especially with my bed up against that wall! I'm expecting them to move it to behind the study.

"The only issue that we are unsure on, is what to do with the microwave and toaster oven in this layout. We use both a lot." Would your budget stretch to a MW drawer? If so, put it in the island at the end closest to the range. That leaves the drawers across from the DW and fridge free for dishes, silverware and possibly glassware. Or you could design a cubby for a small counter top MW in the pantry cabs, either behind doors or on an open shelf. The GE Spacemaker II MW is designed to fit in a standard upper cabinet so it would fit, no problem in your shallow pantry cabs. We use our toaster oven a lot, too. It was our only oven for 2 years after our oven died and couldn't be repaired (too old). We thought we'd get rid of it after the remodel but we decided to keep it. So glad we did! We designed a cubby for it. It works really well for us but we dud add an automatic fan behind it (like the ones used in stereo cabs to cool off components) to blow hot air out of the cubby and protect our cabinets. If I were to do it again, I probably would make the cubby height 18" not the 15" we did to help with air circulation. Here's mine: You could do something similar on your pantry wall. Here's another example: You could also place it on a pull-out shelf in your pantry. Here's an example of MW and toaster oven in a tall pantry cabinet. How large is your toaster oven? Our cubby is 19" deep with counter, which gives us room behind it and in front. We don't really need room behind it, per mfg specs, just room on each side of it and above. HTH!