Contractor doesn't want us to do our own demo/finish work
divotdiva2
13 years ago
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MongoCT
13 years agodivotdiva2
13 years agoRelated Discussions
re-doing master bath - contractor wants to demo ceiling below
Comments (5)I'm just wrapping up a bath gut and rebuild. I completely gutted the room, including the old tile floor, mudjob it sat on and the 1x6 subfloor. Even with that I had to cut a hole in the ceiling below to access the shower elbow (took out the tub and replaced with shower only). Couple of thoughts: 1.Is the ceiling below plaster or sheetrock? If it's sheetrock...and you can live with the mess...a tear out might be easier to work with. Having said that, a small hole (I consider 2' x 2' to be small) is VERY easy to fix on sheetrock. As I found, you'll only need access to the tub/shower trap from below. 2. Plaster is a MAJOR pain in the @ss to patch. I love plaster. Have it in my house now. Love how it paints and prevents sound transmission thru the house. Even with all that, I would consider a complete tear out of plaster if A. the space is small, and B. you can live with the mess. If I had to cut a hole larger than 2ft square in my ceiling that was plaster, I would plan to hang a "new" ceiling of sheetrock over the hole and remaining plaster. It's about the only way to guarantee a clean looking ceiling. I just reread your post. Have you ever gutted something before? There's A LOT more too it than most realize. Let me know if you're new at it and I'll share what I know....See MoreContractor doesn't use vapor barrier behind tiles in tub
Comments (10)Hi Jenna - Your contractor has been doing it wrong for years -- many have... Hardiebacker and Durock are more water-resistant than ordinary sheetrock, but they are certainly not waterproof. If you ever see a scrap of Durock that has been left outside in a wet environment for a few weeks, you'll see what I mean. In a finished shower, moisture will go through the grout lines very easily, and even through the tile faces themselves to some extent. That moisture will seep into the Durock where it sits until it evaporates (slowly) or continues on to the wooden studs behind, causing them to rot. A moisture membrane behind the Durock helps slow this process down A LOT, preserving the life of the wooden framing studs behind. What's even better is a relatively new product called 'Kerdi' that's applied on top of the Durock. Do some reading on this board, and have your contractor do some research on Kerdi, and the benefits will become apparent very quickly. The over-simplified version is that Kerdi is a moisture membrane that goes between the tile and the Durock. The Kerdi layer prevents the moisture from ever reaching the Durock, dramatically lengthening the life of your installation. Of course, for leaks that occur at the valve, none of these precautions will help much... There are moisture alarms you can buy that will notify you if there's a leak, and leaving an access panel behind the valve will be invaluable then....See MoreWanting a curbless shower, math doesn't work, looking for alternatives
Comments (38)Tundra Finish Works, thanks for the reply. Yes, exactly my concern - tying the pan to the room floor! One thin line of silicon sealer is all that is between me and disaster? I will have the room floor fully waterproofed and the room walls are going to be tiled to about 45" and waterproofed to some reasonable height (have not discussed it yet with Jim, the contractor). He knows that he is pitching the room floor toward the shower and has instructed me to chose a room tile no larger than 3-4" for that reason. One of the reasons I chose Transolid is this video:Transolid shower pan demo He says that they solved the problem of the transition between the floor and the pan, though he does not explain how they solved it. Now that pan is not exactly the same as the one they are selling to me, as it does not have the covered drains or the faux tile look. The video is from 2010, and I imagine they have made changes to the pans in that time. Not to mention that this was a "facilities" show and not aimed at the homeowner. But their design is otherwise similar, with their half-inch "low static barrier redirecting the water to the center drain." They do not talk about the transition to the floor in their Spec Sheet. I am using their Remodel wall system. This Spec Sheet is for the 60 x 36 size shower. For some reason, they do not have the ADA shower size Remodel walls in their web offerings, though they do sell them. I am buying a couple extra pieces of their wall material to do the ceiling, too. I spray upward and hit the ceiling sometimes. Plus the one shower I had where we did the ceiling with the same wallboard as the walls lasted FOREVER when it should never have worked at all, since the material was not approved for use in the shower (I was young and stupid and had run out of money). Shower Wall Specs Creative Tile Eastern CT, thank you so much for the Trending Accessibility link. I have started to look at this. I see the part about their wall system being made with plywood so that things can be added later. Smart. I am putting in all the bells and whistles and bars to begin with. We are tearing out and rebuilding the walls in different places, so blocking will be put in place for everything when the walls are built. I have an "L" Jaclo grab bar for one end, a hand-held shower head vertical bar that is also a grab bar, toward the opposite end, a corner shelf (HealthCraft Invisia) that is also a grab bar and a grab bar to use vertically at the entrance. I will use a free-standing stool because I already have it and it is more flexible. I do want to look at the Trending Accessibility shower pans more closely. I see that their wall systems are assembled in the same way as the Transolid. Off I go to explore their site and learn more!...See MoreDesign-build firm doesn’t want to use epoxy grout
Comments (8)Epoxy is overkill outside a commercial environment. It doesn’t provide the benefits that you think it will for it’s difficulty of application. An acrylic or urethane based grout is more than fine, unless it’s natural stone. Use natural stone with with caution. You want a high quality cementitious based grout with it that lets it breathe and dry out. What is more important is the waterproofing system behind the toppings, and the person installing the system....See MoreStacey Collins
13 years agoBilll
13 years agoantss
13 years agoCarrie Burinda
10 months agocpartist
10 months ago
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