Shawn, In my case I don't yet have A/C in my house, but would consider leaving the humidifier on (I'll probably leave the furnace fan on, for air filtration and better circulation, it may also keep the whole house a bit cooler since my basement stayed nice and cool last summer) - the climate here is very dry. I can't see it as a problem to humidify within reason, can you? My damper is an odd thing, it's just a flat metal disk behind the humidifier duct (well that's the duct that runs back from the central part of the warm air register, it connects to humidifier which then goes into the cold air return) so to 'open' or 'close' the damper, I'll have to remove a screw and loosen another....not a big issue but somewhat primitive, besides, I don't know how they arrived at where the damper's currently at. I'll check my manual, but it's not the original manual for my humidifier, just the only one I could download from the company's website. It's pretty close. How would running the humidifier affect the latent heat load, whatever that means? I understand the problems that'd be created if your ac is trying to dehumidify the air whilst you're trying to humidify it. Is that it, or just the nature of air cooling to remove moisture from the air (does it just drain from the system somewhere externally? I can see the point of the uv sterilising light if they can do the cooling coils as well as the air itself, I'd hate to be breeding mould. Car manufacturers ought to consider some sort of UV system for car air, when I lived in Australia, the "dirty sock" smell from car ac units was a real problem.

No argument heating with electricity is the most efficient? I can't let that statement stand. Let me quote: The efficiency of any system depends on the definition of the boundaries of the system. For an electrical energy customer the efficiency of electric space heating can be 100% because all purchased energy is converted to building heat. However, if the power plant supplying electricity is included, the overall efficiency drops. For example, a fossil-fuelled power plant may only deliver 4 units of electrical energy for every 10 units of fuel energy released. (That's only 40% efficient.) Even with a 100% efficient electric heater, the amount of fuel needed for a given amount of heat is more than if the fuel was burned in a furnace or boiler at the building being heated. If the same fuel could be used for space heating by a consumer, ***it would be more efficient overall to burn the fuel at the end user's building.*** So if your goal, at the end of the day, is to produce the most heat with the least fuel, burning natural gas in a boiler at your house will win over the natural gas-steam turbine plant-electricity-back to heat at your house every time. And I'm reiterating this because there seems to be some sort of disagreement. Also, because for example on the bathrooms forum, I'm surprised at how many people I see installing radiant electric heat systems in their bathroom floors. "Don't they get it," I wonder, "how wasteful it is to heat the space this way". But if there are authoritative voices (like engineers) throwing around terms like "electric heat is 100% efficient", then I can see why they'd make such choices. It's like saying the garbage goes to zero mass after you put it out on your curb for collection and it crosses your property line. Sure, maybe it weighs zero to you once it's gone, but you have to take into account the whole cycle. Same for the electricity you use. If you're only looking at what happens inside your property line, you're not seeing the whole picture. Let's end this thread. I've fallen into one of those gardenweb black holes that I want to avoid. Future comments are welcome of course, but I may not respond, except to those pertaining to the original topic, which was steam towel warmers. Willtv, thank you for your encouraging comment.

As I suggested somewhere else, a while ago - on a windy day, light a candle and move it around the margins of doors, windows (uncluding cracks in the middle), light switches, wall plugs, range hoods, exhaust fans, etc. to find drafts. Then - plug 'em. Somewhere else, a few months ago, I gave instructions for installing a (heavy) plastic sheet (preferably UV light resistant) into drafty windows, holding it in place with slim strips of wood around the margins. In such a way that it can be removed easily in spring and reused for years, unlike the kinds that you install by gluing around the window edges, then tighten by shooting hot air on them. And scrap when you remove 'em in the spring: stores love that kind - frugal folks don't. Or, rather would prefer to find a more economical system, if possible. If some of you didn't see the instructions you may be able to find them elsewhere on this forum, but if you can't find them and want to know more, send me a request. Some folks, having worked hard to make their homes more airtight, then found that there was a problem with too much condensation on the windows. So have become more blase [acute accent on the "e" - which my non-French-friendly computer can't handle] about a certain amount of cold air entering the home. Some years ago, my brother, who lives in an area where the temperatures go as low as -40 degrees, built a home. They built it so airtight that moisture from cooking (usually for 2, sometimes for three, occasionally for more), showers, etc. collected on the windows to such an extent that they had to put towels down on the sills and floor to collect the moisture. So - they bought a heat exchanger, which blows heat out of the house through a series of concentric cans, with cold air from outside travelling through alternate channels, such that the warm air is cool to cold as it exits - and the cold air coming in is warm to hot as it enters the home. Works great. Cost something over $1,000. somewhere around 10 years ago, I think. Haven't talked to him about whether he's had to replace parts, etc. He's smart and innovative, and loves working in metal, welding, etc. and plans to do more of it, and refurbish some old tractors (including one that we took out from this area when we moved there, nearly 60 years ago), now that he's retired. He doesn't have an email address: no computer. He does have a phone, though. Hope your neighbours can say that your home is full of hot air. Especially when you're there. Just my way of agreeing that it is a good idea to turn the heat down when you expect to be away for a while. Probably a good idea to pull the fuses/ flip the circuit breakers on the (electric) hot water heater, as well. Maybe turn off the gas-fired one - but only if you are permitted to relight it yourself (not need a gas co. technician to do it - which you'd probably find too expensive). Good wishes for getting all the hot air that you need - at as reasonable a price as possible. still joyful

HI ms shanyne. lol we keep changing our mind about the tile. My hubby is the one with the ideas. I hope it will look okay but I am a little nervous it might look too dark http://www.ylighting.com/bocci-series-14-1-mini-pendant-light.html http://rbctile.com/series/life/ [http://www.floridatile.com/products/time2_0(http://www.floridatile.com/products/time2_0) the vanity will be in the walnut below by this company [https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-contemporary-bathroom-seattle-phvw-vp~1131578[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-contemporary-bathroom-seattle-phvw-vp~1131578) the floor tile will be the florida snow tile and that will be on two side walls of the shower. The middle of the shower will be the walnut tile as will the side of the Jacuzzi/ we have not picked anything for the the sides over the vanity and around the mirror. in the separate toilet rom the back wall will be the walnut tile going straight up. the floor will be the florida snow and the walls will be a light color of some sort. over the vanity we will have 3 robern 36 x 24 mirrors for a total of 72 x 36 inches. I might put those bocci pendants on the sides of the mirror or over the tub r both . not sure. the pebbles will go on the shower floor http://www.cooltiles.com/stafp108.html