Do I need a liner for a ventilation insert?
12 years ago
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- 12 years ago
- 12 years ago
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What info do I need to figure out my hood ventilation?
Comments (29)Hi - this thread is a little old now so this might be too late, but I have some related Qs even after reading all this helpful advice. I'm starting gut reno of a 120+ year old townhouse in NYC and plan to install 36" bluestar with 2, 22K BTU burners (in addition to other smaller burners of course) which we'll use primarily for stir fry. We HATE grease smell in the house and cook all the time, so want to get what we need for the stove we have. So I'm fine getting major CFM, if that's what it takes, but my concern is the ducting. It seems we have 2 options - up an existing chimney (which we're having relined and is not used for fireplaces; fireplaces were all sealed up decades ago) - but that would be 3 stories or about 50 feet needed to get to the roof and I wonder if that's too far for it to function properly...2nd option would be to bring it down into a soffit on the floor below (a rental apartment that already has a dropped ceiling) and vent out of the exterior wall, but this would require making a new hole in our masonry, and would mean the venting would be just outside our kitchen, under a french door that we're likely to want to open often while we're cooking - so the smoke could in theory end up back in the kitchen, no? I am by no means an expert so forgive me if I'm totally off base here, but any thoughts/advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!...See MoreDo you have a Vent a Hood liner insert
Comments (2)Yes, I have one, and had a custom hood built around it. You don't say what kind of stove/range you have, but we have a 48" dual fuel range with 6 burners and a griddle. I like all the lighting and fan options it offers. A smaller size probably wouldn't have as many since it's not as wide. It's on the loud side when turned on full blast, which I rarely do. We don't fry and only have all burners going for large gatherings/holiday meals....See Morewhich liner do I need?
Comments (9)OK, again to the barricades ... You size the intake aperture (the hole that leads to the baffles), whether it has a wood overlay or a stainless steel overlay, or a copper overlay, to capture and contain the rising and expanding cooking effluent plumes. This usually means overlapping the cooking zone by a few inches on each side. In this particular case, if you don't mind the entire area being a hood and accumulating grease, then overlap is achieved, but I don't recommend approaching the plume expansion this way. Just make the insert large enough and the rest of the volume will stay clean. Having sized the overlapping intake aperture, then determine required maximum volumetric flow rate by multiplying the intake aperture area (in square feet) by 90 ft/min to find CFM. Next, account for pressure losses in baffles, hood transitions, and ducting, plus, imperfect make-up air (MUA) pressure balance. If you don't know all these often unpublished parameters along with the blower's fan curve, multiply the required CFM by 1.5 to find rated CFM for the blower. This approximation has a good chance of being sufficient for residential hood and liner designs. Duct area should yield 1000 to 2000 ft/min air velocity at the required CFM. MUA is needed for the hood to work. If it isn't provided by house leaks (and I don't expect 600 or whatever CFM of leaks to be available) and if opening windows won't pass code or winter conditions, then a deliberate MUA system is needed, either passive (no blower) or active (with blower). How well the MUA must make the house interior pressure match the house exterior pressure depends on several factors, the most important for safety being the presence of combustion appliances taking air from inside the house. Read various MUA related threads here for more information....See MoreDoes a ductless range hood insert need to have open ventilation?
Comments (6)@3onthetree Okay, that makes sense. I hadn't considered the pressure issue. But this is an insert that is designed to be put inside a cabinet or frame. And I have seen a lot of these ductless inserts placed inside frames like mine that are against the ceiling and with cabinets on either side and no visible vent at all. So are they all installed wrong? I have watched so many tutorials and read so many blogs and no one addresses this issue. What if we create a top out plywood with a hole, then install a duct that goes up through that hole to blow the air out of the top? That way I could still enclose the frame and I wouldn't have to worry about dust collecting in the cavity, but the air would have some place to go. Would that work? Here is a pic of what the unit looks like inside the frame:...See MoreRelated Professionals
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