Those with wood base board do you have shoe molding?
minac
14 years ago
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ckstjamj22
14 years agocat_mom
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Tile or wood base molding?
Comments (5)Jenna, We're starting the remodeling of three bathrooms. Aren't you lucky to be almost finished! The fellow who gave us a quote for our shower surround is making a custom window sill and shelf too, when my DH asked about making baseboards to match he discouraged us. Even though he has them in his own home, he says he prefers the look of wood, and would like to redo his. Since he talked us out of ordering more product from him, I would lean towards wood. Totally understand about wanting to have a waterproof floor, guess it's hard to say without seeing samples side by side in person....See MoreWood floor shoe molding question: stain or paint?
Comments (8)Thanks everyone! michiganrachel - -Hmmm, vacuum scuffs are virtually guaranteed, but I do like the look...I'll have to check whether magic sponges take those off. rmkitchen & dianalo, I see your point and probably would have gone for the shoemoldingless look (if I had thought about this detail beforehand!) but I think it's too late for me now that the floors are done b/c the boards are not all perfectly abutting the baseboards- - I don't think it's sloppy, but I guess the GC had shoe molding in mind and must've communicated that to the flooring guys. Luckily I'm ok with the shoe molding....See MoreWhite base boards, doors, door frames, but wood windows?
Comments (7)LOL I figured photos would probably be needed, I'm not great at explanations. This is the hallway, the pic doesn't show all the doors, the darkness of the trim just really got to me after 5 years and the doors/door trim aren't in the greatest condition, the house was built in 1966, we are the second owners, most of the house is still in it's original built state. The trim and doors have a lot of scratches and poly drips from whoever originally finished them. The dining room area, after we installed and finished the hardwood floors, the floors have evened out a lot since this pic which I'm kind of sad about. What the windows look like up close. This is an old photo of the living room area after we moved in, you can see the size of the windows are really nice. This is a mock up of the living room/entry room space and shows sort of the built in plans between the two rooms that will serve as storage and separation in place of the common railing that is used in splits, most of the storage is on the entry side (which is how we wanted it) Built ins will be white with a wood top to match the floors. We're no longer going with the planks on the ceiling or all the way up the entry wall instead we're thinking a white thin depth coffered ceiling to hide the swirls (that I'm not a fan of) and wainscoting only in the small entry area underneath the built ins and around the front door going down the steps to the lower lever. Last two pics are the start of building the built ins. Two closed cabinets on each side with the middle one being open shelves....See MoreHow is your shoe moulding installed?
Comments (4)Hi, There are only a few times when it would be appropriate to run the shoe into the area of the casing. In a small number of trim jobs, the casing will be the exact same thickness of the baseboard, and this casing will have a portion of square (plain) profile at its edge before the molded portion begins. In that situation, it's acceptable to overlap the shoe onto the flat portion of the casing. This is encountered in old houses. When there is a deep backband molding atop the casing and running to the flooring so as to make a natural stop to the baseboards (and the shoe) it would be prudent to stop the shoe into it, rater than making lots of little miters to run around it. Same goes for thick plinth blocks. If the amount that the plinth block sticks out beyond the shoe is less than 1/2", you need to "ease" back that portion of the shoe that projects clear of the plinth so as to give a neat appearance with no sharp transitions. The basic way to and a butt cut on shoe, where the entire end is seen, is to leave a 1/8" flat of shoe and miter the rest at 40*, not bringing the shoe to a complete point. The ends of the shoe, if you have the ogee shoe or if the work is very fancy, would be to form molded returns on all ends; instead of easing with a 40* cut, the profile is repeated to resemble a mitered return where the molding turns back into the wall. This is done by carving the shape into the end grain, not by glueing in a tiny sliver of molding.It must be "worked in the solid" as they used to say. If you have a column base in the middle of the floor, let need dictate using shoe. Only if the joint or scribe of the flooring up to this object is wanting should you lay shoe mold there. More than you wanted to know, I'm sure. Casey...See Morebill_g_web
14 years agominac
14 years agoUser
14 years ago
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