I have Monogram, but they're all pretty similar, and very simple. Jenn-Air and KitchenAid are Whirlpool, but they're almost identical to the Monogram which is GE. :) As far as I can tell the Jenn-Air and KitchenAid are completely identical to each other. The moist/dry lever slides a piece of metal over or away from the vent holes. There is a hollow area between the inner surface and the front panel, whether factory or custom. I assume, though don't know for sure (where' Kas?) that the steam condenses in the relatively cooler hollow. On mine there are slits in the bottom of the hollow. Of course, that means that the moisture will be venting right into the drawerfront below, but there isn't enough moisture to matter for most things. It's really more about crisp vs. spongy. Sometimes you want one, sometimes the other. The air inside gets very dry. Retaining the moisture from the food for things that are supposed to stay soft could be important, especailly if they're held uncovered for quite some time. OTOH, venting the little bit of steam when you want crisp to stay crisp is really useful too. It's not perfect. If your crisp thing is like a waffle, which is crisp on the surface, but still moist in the middle, it's not going to stay as crunchy as right out of the waffle iron. OTOH, if you have soft crackers you can recrisp them. They're not so moist that they'll soggify in their own dampness. Does that make sense? It's really very similar to how there are some things that are moist inside, like crusty bread, that you wouldn't put in a plastic bag because it would get soft. That's the kind of thing that you don't want to seal in a closed up warming drawer either, so you open the vent.

I copied this from page 4 of the user manual for the IWD models, which are integrated models. The diagram showing where the vents are didn't copy, so if you want to see it, check the manual. FWIW, the manual for my current IWO27 specifically states that integrated warming drawers do not have humidity control. I didn't find that anywhere in the IWD manual, although you are right, it is the manual for other, non-integrated models as well. I should be getting a response from Dacor early next week and will post what they state the differences are between the IWO and the IWD. __________________________ Humidity Control The warming drawer has two distinct humidity modes. The "MOIST" setting seals the foodÂs moisture in the warming chamber, maintaining the water content of the food. The "CRISP" setting allows the moisture to vent out of the sides of the warming drawer, retaining the crispness of other food types. The MOIST  CRISP lever opens and closes vents located on the inside of the drawer front.  Do not block the humidity vents any time you operate your warming drawer. Operation The warming drawer is equipped with four temperature settings and a timer that can be set for one, two, three or four hours. The warming drawer can also be set for continuous operation. See the table on the facing page for suggested settings for different foods. To turn the unit on: 1. Select the humidity level. Slide the lever located on the back of the drawer face to the desired position. To increase humidity inside the drawer, slide the lever closer to the MOIST symbol. To decrease humidity inside the drawer, slide the lever closer to the CRISP symbol. The lever can also be positioned anywhere between the MOIST and CRISP settings. 2. Push the ON/OFF key. 3. Push the key for the desired temperature setting. 4. Select the amount of time you want the warming drawer to be on: Push the SELECT key until the desired number of hours lights up on the control panel. or Push the continuous key (â) to keep the unit on constantly. Push the ON/ OFF key to turn the warming drawer off, when done. Warming Serving Containers  To warm plates, and other serving containers:  Place them carefully into the warming drawer and set the temperature to PROF or LOW, depending upon your personal preference. Do not drag plates across the drawer. They may scratch the drawer surface.  Before using any delicate dinnerware in the warming drawer, determine its maximum recommended usage temperature from the plate manufacturer. It is not necessary to preheat the warming drawer when warming serving dishes.  You can also use plastic wrapping on plates to keep foods hot and moist. Seting Temperat ure* PROOF 100°F (38°C) LOW 140°F (60°C) MED 175°F (80°C) HIGH 200°F (93°C) * Temperatures are approximate MOIST CRISP

I have the Monogram warming drawer. The panel ready one has a stainless front which can be removed and replaced with a custom panel. It's flush integrated at 25". They include a red plastic disk for the surface so the on light can shine through. I haven't installed that yet. I think I've grouped the WD in my mind with irons and coffee pots which have to be checked for being off before retiring. There isn't a "slow cooker feature" on the Monogram. The instructions specifically say to only use it for hot foods, not to warm or cook anything. Them's weasel words, however, since Wikipedia says, "Typical slow cooker is designed to heat food to 170 F (77 C) on low, to perhaps 190-200 F (88-93 C) on high." The top setting on the warming drawer is 230. The thing is whether whatever is slow cooked in it will develop an internal temperature that's safe for consumption (should do if it's in there long enough), and also whether leaving the WD on for 6-8 hours is the best use of electricity. (I have no clue!) Warming drawers are made to be run for at least three days straight by Orthodox Jews, so it should be safe from that point of view. And many Jews do use all kinds of warming devices for slow cooking Sabbath foods without killing anybody. The tray kit includes one long and two short stainless food service trays, as well as rails and cross bars from which they hang. The manual claims they're an extra cost, but they were included with mine. It probably became a bonus incentive when the downturn hit.

Came late to this thread, but have chimed in on the WD ones over on the appliance forum. Couple of things: Thermador's previous generation drawers would take a panel (flush) and allow moist/crisp feature. You can still find them on the secondary market as they haven't been gone all that long. Just about all warmer drawers can be made to fully integrate, it just takes thourough planning and very good execution. You cannot really adapt or modify many exsisting situations to fully flush out a wd front in the field. As I've said in previous threads , this is the most complex appliance integration out there. Your typical cabinet dealer, appliance salesman, cabinet maker or remodeler is way out of his/her depth on these. I've even seen experienced CKD's and installer make a mess of them. It is best to find a designer who has EXPERIENCE with them, particularily the one you are looking at. Chipshot's designer must be one if she's putting her $$$ where her mouth is. Miele's drawer does flush out if desgned properly. The 3/4" drawing and warning is for those slackards who don't fully think through an integrated install. Anyone who passe 4th grade math should know that if I add 3/4" to something (the frame or flange or drawer of a warming drawer in this case) that the whole gets larger by 3/4" an inch. You'd be suprised how many designers this fails to register on. As long as your wd carcass/ frame / flange is FLUSH with the face of you cabinet carcass or frame the unit with drawer front will be in plane with everything else. Here's where it gets tough. It matters what type drawer you have. Some have no flange (Dacor) some have huge ones (GE). Width matters, depth of the unit matters, your cabinet depth matters, the elecr. location matters. Cut sheets often show the opening size for a unit but that is not always the dimension that accomodates the unit AND the flange to allow for full integration. If you have faceframe cabinets the sizing will be vastly different from euro constructed cabinets. The concept is really simple you learned it in nursery school: The square peg in the square hole, the round in the round and the rectangle in the rectangle one. Exectuting it is much harder as tehre are multiple puzzles with pieces that look very similiar but are slightly different. The Wolf is one of the deepest units on the market, you'll have fewer options with this unit. I believe the GE can be made to be flush/totally integrated. Looking at the drawings it seems that you need only add 1 1/4" to the opening the 9 1/4" opening + 5/8" each side. It may actually require + 1 1/2" as the finished drawer ht. reads 10 1/2" on the spec sheet. This new opening will allow the unit to be flush with your carcass or face frame. Of course your depth increased to at least 24" mabey more and you'll hav elect. box issues to resolve. If this wa our project we'd advise you to use a unit we have a proven record with, Dacor, Miele, or older Thermadors. I you still want x brand we would tell you a: it might not be possible, b: we'll be glad to research it for you at our regular rates - a: still applies, and c: we'll require the unit in our possession before the cabinets are ordered. A: still applies and the unit may not be returnable for a credit.