Normally, a Construction Contract might give an Owner control of the Design and Documentation and allow purchasing of certain specified materials delivered to the site, but the General Contractor would have full control of the Work including Means & Methods and Safety. It is possible to add a clause to the Contract for the Owner's Forces but it should clearly stipulate what Work that would be for, how it would be scheduled and coordinated, and how the liability and insurance would be divided. The other major concern (as others have mentioned) is that removing Work from the Contract reduces the GC's income and in most contracts the GC is allowed to retain the OH&P (markup) if it was not specifically excluded. However, contractors are finding it difficult to keep their forces busy much less make a profit so it may be wise to negotiate with your favored contractor early rather than bidding the project. It's difficult to beat a low markup on a Cost of the Work contract if you can supply some of the materials. But be careful about what you supply because the quality of internet materials is generally lower than what an architect would specify and the installer/GC would have no responsibility for failure and it opens up the possibility that the manufacturer and installer will blame each other for a failure and you will be left holding the bag. So, it is often wiser to let the GC supply the materials at a reduced markup. I am finding that many will forgo any markup for costs over an Allowance so low allowance values can work in your favor (if you anticipate the inevitable cost overruns in your contingency budget). But I find that the lowest cost method is a Cost of the Work with a Fixed Fee and a 50/50 Shared Savings (with or without a Guaranteed Maximum Price) because it most closely aligns the interests of the Owner and the GC (something that is completely missing in most projects whether you realize it or not). But that usually requires a very knowledgeable GC willing to do the paper work and an experienced Owner, Consultant, or architect to monitor it.

>Fortunately, the best, most reputable builder in our area is a design-build firm. >After a $3k deposit (applicable toward the contract) and about 6 weeks, we had a >design that we absolutely loved, and a contract just a little bit over our ideal budget >(but that we could get to if we eliminated the 14x14 screened-in deck or dropped >back to a 2 car garage from the current 3.5 car garage.) This is the same thing I have been saying. Having worked for a builder, if builder design satisfies you or require some "minor changes"* - go with it. The cost is nailed down to last stud. I do not believe that IF you are trying to build house on the budget, and this budget 400k (may be $500k) I would be involving architect . Now if you are willing to pay $200/per sq ft go ahead. @lapsangtea As far as original issue: " 630 has become 855" - I can easily see this. Large foundation, upgraded finishes + complicated exterior will do this.... Talk to a builder: ask point blank when can you to put it back in the budget. Most of the time you can build shell for $100k, it is all in finishes. (So reduce finishes for bidding). Get rid of high end faucets - replace with Moens to keep plumbing under control. Always bid 200A service and once you got the bid, ask about "upgrade to 400A". Avoid high-end HVAC (never cost effective), drop hrv/erv and ask about it as an option later IFF you need it. High-end windows add up pretty penny, with little ROI. If you want budget construction - act like it. Specify all high end finishes - builder will get concerned and pad pad pad - when your budget goes out of the window.

First, a home inspector will not have the capacity for complicated electrical situations. Second, your last post, starting with "Center11" 3700WAmp" is off. The word amp, and all further suffixes need to move down 1. NOTE; This permissive code "exception" is something I will never use, but some electricians use it like a get out of jail free card :-/ To do the calculations, you need to know the KW rating of each appliance at 240 volts. (Not 208V) "Rating at 240V=40amps" is the allowable circuit rating if ONLY the cooktop is on the circuit. (Not the max unit rating, unless there are electronics limiting the total) We need the total KW rating, which presumably would be 13.7KW @ 240 Volts, but not sure from what you wrote. It should be on the nameplate. The oven is apparently 9KW @ 240 Volts. Here is the code. Here should be a fair explanation. Make sure you can get the right answer for the example first ;) You will notice that even electricians have trouble remembering this because it is a cheap route to take that nobody ever intends to use. http://www.electriciantalk.com/f5/range-calculation-n-e-c-220-55-a-42998/

Design build firms are just vertical integration (backward or forward). They typically create some value for consumers, but just like all created value there is some sacrifice. Theoretically, a design-build firm should create designs they are more efficient at building. In other words, they will design to their strengths, that is the nature of their existence. That efficiency will typically create value for consumers, we imagine that being from improved communication, fewer reworks, etc. However, that comes at a cost, and that cost is creativity (again this is theoretical), if a design-build firm designs to its build strengths, then it will avoid designing to its build weaknesses. Since an independent architect doesn't have to worry about working in those parameters then they should be more open to more creative designs. However, theory and reality are not the same thing. Just because a design-build firm will generally create some additional value, that doesn't mean that it will necessarily create additional value for your particular build. Just because an architect should be more open to creative designs, doesn't mean your particular architect will be able to achieve your vision. The best choice for any individual is going to be somewhat unique to that individual. Sometimes a design-build firm might be better for your particular situation than an independent architect and vice versa. Good luck