linen closet in bathroom? How wide?
likewhatyoudo
9 years ago
I am working on my Master bathroom design again!
I would like a linen closet in the design.
I have 9' 1" of wall space and a 10 foot high ceiling to put my double sink vanity and a linen cabinet. I would like at least a 72 inch vanity and a linen closet on that wall. To do something like the picture below how wide of a space would I need for the linen closet to get this look? With 36 inches left for the built-in cabinet could I get a 30 inch wide one?
I love the look of this set up:
This post was edited by rtwilliams on Tue, Nov 11, 14 at 17:28
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jewelisfabulous
9 years agolikewhatyoudo
9 years agoSo with 36 inches of space with only 3 inches of drywall on each side you don't think it would look like it was too crowded?
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Linen Closet size in your bathroom
Comments (5)My hall bathroom linen closet inside demension is 37 inches wide by 26 inches deep. It is very easy to access because the door is 30 inches wide. It has 5 shelves in it but could easily have 6. I think the size is more than adequate. We don't store sheets in it but it does hold a lot of things including a case of toilet paper and a case of paper towels, pool towels, bath towels, and all sorts of other assorted bathroom items. My MB closet is another story. It is a tunnel at 37 inches deep and 22 inches wide with a 16 inch door. Not sure what the previous owner (who was the builder) was thinking when he put that closet in. Maybe he had extra, extra long arms!...See MoreHow wide are your bathroom and bedroom doors?
Comments (9)I wouldn't worry about the bathroom door matching the other door sizes. Without close scrutiny, 28" and 30" doors off the same hallway, painted the same color, will look the same. Our reno'd bathroom will have a 30" door and that feels right for comfort. Any larger and we'd have clearance issues. I have a functional 21-1/2" door into my less-used bathroom (old house, weird door sizes all around - we have doors that are 24" wide and 9-1/2 feet tall) and several functional 24" doors into other rooms. For me, even though I can fit through the 24" doors just fine, I feel like I need to angle my shoulders to get in. It's a mental adjustment I make unconsciously - the doorway looks and is smaller than standard, so you feel like you need to lessen yourself to fit through. It's fine for less-visited or less-used rooms like a pantry or closet or even a guest room, but for everyday high-traffic rooms like kitchens and bathrooms, I'd go for the standard 28-30"....See Moreadjustable white shelves for bathroom linen closets
Comments (10)You can have deeper shelves. But it will be much harder to access the contents. That’s when you need all kinds of labeled organizer bins. 12” deep shelving is much more efficient. Especially if you were to create it in an L shape for your closet rather than the standard straight across. Then you have room for a broom hanger too. The base shelves can be slightly deeper for towel storage. But you will be able to find and reach what you need rather than tossing the whole closet b cause it’s in the back of s 24”D shelf....See MoreHow to layout the master bathroom and closet
Comments (5)You have about 10'4" between your bedroom door frame and the left exterior wall. Build your bath from the bedroom door to the exterior door along the hall and closet wall -- 10'4" long and 6' wide. Put the back of your toilet at the closet wall with its left side against that exterior wall. About one square yard would be what you'd need. From that same wall behind the closet, build a 36" dividing wall (2"x4" studs) along the right side of the toilet to create that niche for the toilet. Within that wall will be your plumbing for your tub/shower and, if you plan ahead, a shelf or two -- above and/or below that -- for a toilet tissue holder within the wall. With its faucet, shower and drain end against that dividing wall, put the left side of your tub/shower combination against that closet wall -- usually 62 ". -- and then build another 36" wall opposite the other dividing wall to frame the tub/shower. You've now used used most of that 10'4" Measure 3' from that last 36" wall to the next wall. Your door will go in that opening. Then across from that last 36" wall at the end of the tub, build a 2' wall (2"x4" studs) that will be on the right side of your 18" deep vanity/countertop with the left side of your vanity/countertop against the exterior wall. You could even hang an 18" countertop between the two walls -- exterior wall and the last 2" wall and have your vanity built only beneath where you want your sink(s), leaving plenty of room beneath the wide countertop for laundry hampers and/or roll under cabinets or a wheeled stool for sitting at the mirror. Plan ahead as you set your studs so you can build any "medicine cabinets" recessed into the wall above/behind the vanity/countertop. You could center the vanity base and sink(s) across from the tub and leave the space beneath the countertop across from the toilet open. Another option could be a sink and vanity at each end or even create a vanity beneath the entire width of the countertop. The back of the master bedroom closet(s) -- multiple closets or one elongated closet -- with bi-fold doors for access from the bedroom -- would be against the same wall as the back of the vanity -- about 10' 4" long and as deep as you need it to be: measure the heaviest coat with the widest shoulders either of you has and your closet needs to be deep enough for that coat to be hung in the closet without touching the front or back wall -- front wall with your bi-fold closet doors built in front of that between closet and bedroom. If possible, put a small window shoulder high in that exterior wall of the bath centered across from the door accessing the bath. You'd have a hallway alongside the bath and closet, not take up much more of the bedroom floor space and you could even add a door between the bedroom and the bath door in case at any time you wanted to leave the option for closing off the bedroom but not the bathroom....See Morejewelisfabulous
9 years agosjhockeyfan325
9 years ago
llcp93
9 years agoI agree on attaching it to the cabinet and no dry wall on that side. You are loosing space you could have in your cabinet. In fact, we are demo-ing our vanity/linen cabinet that is just what you are wanting to build, so we can attach extend the vanity top and attach it directly. We are also loosing the furdown.
fnmroberts
9 years agolikewhatyoudo
9 years agofnmroberts
9 years agolikewhatyoudo
9 years ago
Gracie
9 years agofnmroberts
9 years agosjhockeyfan325
9 years agoI can't believe I found this - I am debating switching my photo site from Google+ (formerly Picasa) to another. Well, I used to have a Photobucket account, so I logged in, and there were my pictures of my old house!
So here's a picture of my old bathroom, with the linen closet cabinet I described. I had forgotten that we made it shallower and there was counter in front of it. We didn't actually store linens in there - it was more for miscellaneous stuff. You can see, though, that the rainglass kept the interior mostly obscured.
likewhatyoudo
9 years agomrspete
9 years ago
Melissa Smith
2 years ago
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