So you have two issues: the shut-off valves need to be accessible in case you have to shut of water to the bathroom to do repairs, have a leak, etc. That's what's in the access panel in the corner of the room that we're trying to find another place for... The shower valves are behind the handles ("trim"), behind the tile, inside the shower wall. Since you're considering doing away with the access you currently have and creating a finished, tiled wall on that wall, you want to be sure that all the plumbing in there is in top notch shape and won't need replacing soon. In a situation where there's just drywall on the other side of the tiled wall, it's not a big deal to cut out the drywall, replace the valves, replace the drywall, finish and repaint. Doing the same thing on a tiled wall is a lot harder and more expensive. You just need to think about how you'd handle that scenario in the future (for your new shower plumbing) and if I were you, and you have the budget, I'd go ahead and replace the valves in the old shower, from the back of the wall while you're reno-ing the new bathroom. (Although I have only done this from the front/tiled side, I am pretty sure it can be done from the back side without damaging the tile) Then you won't need to remove the old bath's tile at all. Your old bathroom probably has the sort of showerhead/handle/faucet/valve that comes all together as a kit... but in your new shower you're likely to be buying seperate valves & trim. It's kinda confusing, depending on what you're adding (just a showerhead and one control? Or, also a handshower or body jets?) Keep in mind when you start shopping for these parts that if you do it a la carte from Kohler, Grohe, etc, you need to get a valve and trim (that's the guts and the shiny handle) for each component. I was dismayed at first because I found the picture of the handle I wanted on an online plumbing store and thought to myself, well, that's not too expensive!... it was like $100... and then realized that was the TRIM ONLY and I still needed the valve which was another $200!

Hi, I've been thinking about your floor plan since I first saw it and I think it looks nice. I love your stairs. I too thought furniture placement would be difficult with the bathroom door in the middle of your best wall for a dresser. I tried moving your bathroom wall to the left a couple feet. Your bedroom seemed very wide, especially not having room on that wall for furniture. Then I put a linen closet to the left as you enter the bathroom. This allows you to move your bathroom door so that you have wall space for a dresser. The door to the bathroom would then open up against the linen closet. That door would take up 30 inches when open, so you need to have it clear the tub. Unless you do a pocket door. I think I would like a pocket door going to your MB closet. My mom's bedroom was similar in size and it looked great. She also had a chest to the left of the bay window if your room has the length and you move the windows a little. I reconfigured the 3 rd bathroom, now accessible to office too. You also have a linen closet in your much larger hallway at the top of the stairs, which also helps to lengthen the wall in your bedroom for a piece of furniture. I like Mongo's idea of bookshelves on bedroom 4's wall, unless you decide to take that 8 or 10 inches and add that to your bedroom and move the BDRM 4's closet further into that bedroom. You gain you an extra 10 inches in your bedroom! It is probably a very good idea to use graph paper and cut out pieces of scaled furniture and chairs to see how every thing fits.

olychick, thank you for taking a look. :) I'm relieved to hear you think a white shower pan is best. I am heading out now to find porcelain marble look tiles for the shower walls to pick up the gray as you suggested. I want a shiny finish to the walls. Tell me if you think that's a misstep. I am avoiding marble as I have a marble topped vanity now that is pock marked with etchings. As far as seeing myself in the vanity, yes, I think I will be able to do so. I was planning on a black framed mirror spanning the vanity. My current vanity is 32 1/4" high (as will be the new vanity) and when seated on my vanity stool my reflection is seen up to my chest. The only issue currently is that my knees are pressed against drawers. I failed to mention that I was thinking of using absolute black granite for the vanity top for two reasons: one being cost and the other being to avoid etching. Will doing so deviate too much from my inspiration? Lastly, I had the idea of applying pieces of beveled mirror framed by black molding floor to ceiling along the back wall and continuing behind the toilet (similar to this only floor to ceiling with the exception of base molding & crown): [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by Northbrook Architects & Building Designers Michael A. Menn Thoughts? Suggestions? Thank you for reading this far. :)

Contractors do not design. They build. You need an actual K&B designer. You have a very restrictive space to get all that you want without turning it into a wet room. You, and your husband especially, need to educate yourself on modern waterproofing systems and how a wet room is properly created. The Schluter system will offer a lifetime warranty if their products are used from start to finish, including their thinset. Look at their YouTube channel. And don’t be so sure that your choice tractor can actually do this properly. Especially if he hasn’t had the wetroom and waterproofing conversation with you. Read below, and have a tough conversation with him on all points raised. https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer