True norfolk island pine have large spacing between branches and are symmetrical. Their needle like foliage on the branches are also long a narrow. Btw... you can buy them in stores during holidays. They are frequently mixed up but we do have one that is a true Norfork island pine bought at meijer. Another helpful tip is the branches along the main terminal come out growing upward and then may level out or droop. The cook's branches immediately grow outward or downward. N. Island pine are also known for the dark green foliage and less peeking bark as they are not actual pine trees but are tropical. First photo is of our norfolk. It is 4-5years. Sunburns easily in direct sun. Needs high humidity otherwise drooping like this occurs. It recently changed locations due to a move and is not happy. Second photo is foliage. The top foliage is a cook and the second foliage is a norfolk island. I hope this helps.

There are over 200 varieties of Pine, if you purchasing a furniture-grade pine such as Eastern White, you will get excellent service out of it for generations. Most the antiques that are still usable 300 years later are of Eastern White Pine. Pine is a softer wood than cherry. Cherry is a softer wood than Maple. Soft does not mean inferior, it just indicates that if you drop say a candlestick on the table, in a pine top table you might get a 1/8" deep gash whereas on the maple table it would be 1/32". I don't like pine top surfaces for writing desks, or if your kids to homework on the table top. A ballpoint pen used without a backing surface will leave an impression in pine. Hardwood tops are better for that. What's more important than the top wood, is how is the table constructed? Is the base mortise and tenon (best), or doweled (not as good) or a screw-on leg (awful)? That's the key to durability. Does the table have breadboard ends? (A cross grain end-cap)? These are needed to keep the table top from warping over time. The # 1 killer of table tops is heat. Doesn't matter what wood its made of, heat kills the finish and leaves whitish blemishes on the table. And NEVER, EVER, let the little girls get near the table surface with Acetone (Fingernail polish remover). -Duane C. www.keepingroom.com

Unlike Michael, I am not amazed that your architect would spec single glazed divided lite windows. I have occasion to meet and discuss window and door performance with architects and builders and other folks in the industry and I am no longer surprised by anything I hear or see or read. There are many, probably most, architects who fully understand energy and basic building codes, there are others who don't fully understand them. Some of those want to learn the new codes and some of them seem of the opinion that the only idea that matters is their own "creativity" and be damned to anything that interferes with that. I am sure any of our GC friends who visit these sites have met that type all too often! Like Michael I agree that while some folks may prefer the aesthetic considerations of single pane windows, the energy performance - the pure waste of the indulgence - I believe is unconsionable. Has anyone bought gas in the past few days? That price is only going to go up in the future. All that of course does not affect a decision to buy all wood windows or clad windows. That is a personal choice and there are many options available both ways. There are some very nice replacement windows - all wood - that have excellent energy performance numbers. I also agree with corgilvr that in an older home windows are simply one avenue of energy waste. Money spent on improved insulation and weatherization is often a better investment than replacing windows...an energy audit will tell you what has to be improved. But, IF a person is replacing windows, then there is absolutely no reason at all forgoing with a window that has the energy performance considerations of the turn-of-the century rather than a window that will maximize energy performance in today's world - and keeping as close to the original aesthetics as is possible - a compromise between efficiency and looks. Good luck!

I'm not sure I understand the question. Do you want basic mouldings now that will be ripped out later when you start adding details? If so, then I'd go with the cheapest option available and I suspect that actual moulding will be cheaper than using 1x lumber. Or are you saying you want good quality but "essential" moulding now (baseboard and door/window casing) and then add things like crown and chair at a later date? I don't like MDF moulding because I find it difficult to cope and I don't think nails have the same holding power. But since you're not installing it... When sanded, primed, and two top coats, finger jointed pine should look just fine. Poplar is another option, it's a softer hardwood that takes paint very well.