Thank you so very much Mongo, you do a superb job of explaining things. I remember you telling me on a previous post about a small wet saw, thanks for reminding me. My husband doesn't have enough hair for spray so I think I'll use some cheapy brand; it is a wonderful tip. I can do this, I pulled it off on my kitchen backsplash with even less information and the herringbone ran on the diagonal. Those tiles were pre cut and I am thankful that they were, because I didn't have a clue to the problems that could have developed if they weren't. They were apparently cut to your equation because they matched perfectly. Crazy spacing, I like the grid tech for the floor:) I remember taping my 45* drafting square to the sides of these sections for drying overnight. One night I stayed up all night to tile. It was fun though. This was my first wall, I got better on the second wall as seen in the 2nd pic: I just picked a center spot over the stove location and started - it wasn't exactly centered though, The grout was still wet at this point: You've just boosted my confidence, and others if they are following this post. Thank you so much again Mongo, for your help on this project, and on all the other projects that us lost souls post on GW.

How you arrange the tiles is purely esthetics and only you can answer that one. Who is doing the tiling? Have you looked at inspiration pictures on Houzz? You will need to plan every detail of the layout before you start. That means very detailed drawings to accommodate the grout width and the exact tile dimensions. My tiles are 12x24" but not really, more like 11 something and 23 something. You don't want to have a sliver of tile at the top or the bottom of the layout. I center my tile on the wall area so that it is equal tiles top and bottom, side to side. you will need to figure out how you will lay them, squared or staggered. If there is any bow to the tiles, and there very well could be, you will want to do squared, or a 1/4 or 1/3 (or so) staggered. Not a 50%, because the distortion in the tiles will be very obvious. How are your wrapped walls going to line up? This needs to be determined as well. Are you going to have a niche, if so that is another element that you just don't want to through in there without careful planning of how it will lay with the tile layout. Remember, go to Houzz dot com to look at pictures if you haven't already. ps it seems with my 12x24 bathroom, there was a lot of wasted material. I had to do a lot of cutting of almost every tile. You might want to revisit if 12x24 is really what you want. I wouldn't do it again, I don't believe. I could be wrong about the wastage and it would be interesting is someone that has done more tiling them me to weigh in on the subject of wastage.

I am in the middle of a remodel and the guys have started tiling the shower walls. This is a reasonably large shower about 70 inches long and 50 wide. We are using 12x24 inch ceramic tile laid with a 33% offset. They have completed tiling the 70" side wall and we have got into a discussion on how to continue the tiling on the two side walls. It has always been my understanding that the tiles would "fold" at the corners and the section of tile cut off from the 70" wall would continue at 90 degrees. They say that they prefer to "frame" the tiles on the 50" walls to get the best layout on the 50" wall and then let the corners end up as the pattern falls out. What I can see that I end up with a pice of tile 3" wide on one side of the corner and then have a 8" section continuing - this looks a bit odd to me but they say this is a layout they commonly use - my thought is maybe not with 12x24" tile and in an offset pattern. Most of the pictures I see on the internet show the "folded" tile look which is what I think i prefer but since the tile layout was started on the back wall may end up with some odd cuts at the ends. Just trying to get some feedback from the experts here as they will be coming back to start on the other walls first thing in the morning! Thanks

nuppal- Those tiles do look pretty good from the picture. If the tiles were all flat like that, lippage can still occur if the walls aren't really flat. They often look flat, but, if you lay, say, a 6' straight edge against them you can see bows due to the studs not being perfect. If the tile setter is particular, he adds thin shims to the studs before the backer board goes on so that it lies perfectly flat. My tile guy last time was a fanatic and would not accept even 1/32" of deviation. Varying the amount of thin set behind the tiles can compensate for slightly non-flat walls, but it makes it a lot harder to get a good result. I can't say whether this is a non-flat wall issue or just the fact that the tile setter is not perfect, or both. Please update when you meet with the tile guy and let us know what he has to say. Good luck.