"For the stucco cracks, can I just use caulking to fix it" No, it will only slow down the penetration from the cracks. The damaged underlayment/flashings need to be repaired in order to keep the area's framing dry. Stucco, or hard coat in your case, isn't waterproof. It's the underlayment/flashings/drainage plane that keep the wall/floor cavaties dry. It doesn't take physical water,(rain, sprinklers, leaks, etc.), for your framing to get wet. It can be from condensation/ moisture build-up behind the cementious coats. That's why it's important to have what's behind the coats in good working order to keep moisture or physical water out. These days, most underlayments for traditional stucco are double plyed. With single ply underlayments, the scratch coat attached to the undelayment can cause moisture build-up behind. The two ply application is geared for the second ply to catch that moisture and allow it to run down and out the weep screed,( drainage plane). Your best bet is to have it repaired by a reputable, experienced outfit. Another avenue would be to get estimates on an elastomeric or acrylic top coat, but in order for that to tie in right, it would be a whole house application. Someting to consider if you were thinking of re-coating anyhow. Elastomeric top coats remain flexible in temperature changes meaning virtually crack free finishes, and is way more water resistant than traditional stucco or hard coats.

If you want something that is waterproof, they do make AquaGuard or NuCore laminate flooring that is made with recycled rubber. You could also go with a wood look tile option. But you could never really go wrong with a hardwood floor to increase the value of your home. Just throwing a few options into the ring. Check out Floor & Decor if you're interested in a waterproof LAMINATE. - Woodruff Floors, LLC

When it comes to "trends" vs. "timelessness" you want to look at your personal timeline for selling. Are you planning to sell in the next 5-7 years? If so, go with the trend and ignore your own tastes. If you sell in a few years then you are not buying/constructing the home for yourself. You are creating it for the NEXT buyer. If you are in it for the long haul (7+ years) then you put in the floor that makes YOU happy and that makes YOU smile and that makes YOU feel better about your choices. If you want flooring that can be "extended" into other areas for a later remodel (like in 10 years time) then work with the 3" product. It will be around for a long, long, long time. Wide planks are trending HEAVILY right now. They come and go. And if you are in there for 10+ years, you will want to have the option of refinishing so that when it comes time to sell, you can update your floors for $5/sf instead of having to pay someone to rip out and replace the floors ($10+ per square foot for a job like that).

First of all, I've taken carpet out of many areas where there were original hardwood floors underneath them. A hardwood floor is not structurally worse than plywood; in fact it is better quality wood and therefore structurally better. So, if I were going to do LVP throughout the home, and I was worried about the subfloor (the plywood part), I would pull the carpet up first to see what is under it. If there is structurally sound plywood under the carpet then you can make your decision from there about the hardwood. You could always raise the carpeted area to the level of the hardwood and do the LVP then, which could potentially save you money, depending on the size of each room.. Or, you can look for a reducer (strip that connects two different kinds of flooring), but that probably won't be your first preference because it will create a lip and looks old fashioned. Second, in my area (midwest) the market for good used carpeting and any hardwood flooring is so hot that pre-pandemic I advertised an entire second floor of carpeting, in good used condition (no stains, but used) on craigslist and within 24 hours it was gone. People came and took it all, padding and everything. Same with hardwood - family members took theirs out, replaced it with LVP, and sold the used hardwood at an overall profit. It is not hard to take carpet out; hardwood can be trickier depending on how it was put down. Seriously, I'm a 50 year old woman and with a claw hammer and some gloves I could get that carpet up in an 6 hour day, pad and all. Two preteens could take it up in half that time. Now if the subfloor is concrete (no basement), then you may have to scrape the glue off when you remove the padding, but even then glue is usually just in targeted lines, not evenly spread all over, so there is not much to get up.