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The bathroom Bill and Mongo, and we built

rob333 (zone 7b)

16 years ago

Thanks for all your help! It's done, mostly. If I wait until it's 100%, no one will ever get to see it.

Here is the final slideshow.

Here is the before (it's the old bathroom in another place) and during (starts out with where we put the new one, in the kitchen!) slideshow.

Thank you for all of your help!!!!!!

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Comments (11)

busybme
16 years ago
Really great results! Very different and dramatic. Congratulations!

Sandy
0
MongoCT
16 years ago
Ah...This job must have gone smoothly because I don't even remember being there!

Glad you're happy with the end results, it's always satisfying to check something off the Big List.

Now it's time to get started on the next project! Back to work! Now!

Mongo the Taskmaster
0
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"Mongoct-- (sorry OP) If not using Kerdi shower pan, but just a mudbed/liner, can you use a topical membrane for a shower floor? I've posted previously, but it didn't catch your attention. I'm trying to understand this more as well... " Sorry if I missed your previous post. I seem to be hit and miss on the forums these days. I'm a little confused by the "mudbed/liner" comment and the desire to use it in conjunction with a topical membrane. So let me ramble a bit: I consider "liners" to be the CPE or CPVC thick shower membrane liners, the ones where you use a deck mud preslope, then install the liner over that with a clamping drain, then top the liner with another layer of deck mud, and you tile upon that. If that's what you're asking about, no I wouldn't use a topical membrane on top of all that. Here's what I consider to be a liner installation. Now back-tracking a bit: There are folk that use a topical membrane with a clamping drain, but they have to "dish out" the sloped mud bed as it gets close to the drain. It's sometimes referred to as the "divot method". That way the topical membrane will drain to the drain's weep holes. If you don't use a divot, then the raised part of the clamping drain can sort of act like a dam, causing water under the tile to pool around the drain. The area around the drain might appear perpetually wet. The divot method is not a technique I embrace. Nothing really wrong with it, it's just not my cup of tea. Here is a photo showing the "divot" carved out of the mud base: Virtually every shower I do is a one-off size or shape, so I'm almost always doing a sloped deck mud base. As to which topical membrane to use, when using Kerdi, I'll do a sloped mud pan and then cover that with Kerdi. If using Hydroban, then I'll still use a Kerdi drain in the sloped mud floor but then use Hydroban on the floor and walls. So if you want to use a topical membrane, then no , do not also use a liner within the floor. One membrane is all you want. Does that help?
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Thanks Mongo, I spent a long time today at the tile store looking at all the grouts and decided only this so far: set the wall tiles tight with unsanded grout. But I am having a terrible time with picking the type/color for the floor in the shower and the bathroom. I looked at Mapei, Custom and Laticrete (sp?) grays and none look right. Many almost looked purple or blue not silver at all or else they look way to dark against the rest of the floor. The tile store had bunches of people helping me, all women, luckily they were not busy and the general consensus was to pick Customs Snow White for both the silver glass shower floor and the bath floor and the avalance on the walls. Next to the Avalanche the Snow White did look "a little" gray but isn't that still too white for a shower floor that I paid almost $600 for silver glass so I wouldn't have a white floor in the shower!? Ack! Said to do the walls in Mapei "Avalanche" and the lines would disappear because the color was almost dead on and the lines will be tiny. I left there and went to another store and they only carried Customs and the 2 men/owners there said right away-wall tile-bright white, bath floor-snow white and shower floor Platinum. Told me to set the wall AND the floor tile tight-unsanded on the floor and wall both. It took them about 30 seconds but neither store would let me bring home the little sticks so I still don't know what to do. None of them recommended any epoxy (not Spectralock or Opticolor) once they heard my tile guy hadn't done it. Said I did NOT want to be his test case for a glass shower floor. The second store said Customs "polyblend" grout already has mold and mildew inhibitors but will have to be sealed yearly unlike the spectralock. Geez, this is 2008, can't they just put the sealer in the grout already-lol. Please give me your advice! Thanks so much. (I swear this whole bathroom is giving me an ulcer! In CA, so had the hotmop done and while it didn't leak, now it won't drain because of a big puddle lower than the drain's weep holes-ack. Just had the drywall guy finish up and the painter came and did primer and all the tile is here and ready to go but now this-grrrr. Hopefully the hot mop guy will just come out and do more on that lower part but still, another hold up.)
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Lovely! I like the classic white tile and porcelain and how you used furniture pieces in the bathroom. I love that the storage at the end of the tub has pull-outs that can be reached from the toilet. Your custom sink and backsplash and counter are unique and beautiful. Yours may be the first bathroom sink I have seen in which a small or medium dog could be washed! That is a good thing! I showed your pictures to my DH because I am thinking of classic tiled walls with a chair rail for when we redo our bath in a couple of years. He liked it! I was expecting him to say, "too old fashioned." He did not, he said it looked nice. From him, nice is a compliment. He even liked your rows of listello. I was just at the Tile Shop's site the other day looking at the Hampton tiles because someone was selling some on Craigslist. I am hoping to do as you did and get what I can cheaper there, and fill in the rest from the store. I can see that you worked very hard to secure all of your materials - and then cut the floor tiles to size and culled the Hampton tiles, too! You succeeded very well in getting the look you wanted while saving money along the way. Congratulations, and thank you for the pictures and great detail and supply list.
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rob333 (zone 7b)
Original Author
16 years ago
You helped convince him the sink could be any height. Bill gave advice on the vapor barrier, and making the tile shinier. You better be careful, if you're gonna crack whips, I'll make you help with the next in process project... the w/d closet and master bedroom closet. Oh wait, the plumbing is done. Can you frame, drywall, and move the light switches for us? Thanks dear ;)

{{gwi:198588}}
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MongoCT
16 years ago
Framing and electrical? No problemo.

Drywall...Daddy doesn't do drywall. Daddy hates drywall. Allergies...yeah, that's it...I'm allergic to gypsum!

Mongo
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Flowerchild
16 years ago
Great job!!!! It looks terrific. I love the uniqueness of the whole look, especially the shower. Nice slideshow too.
Congrats guys. Enjoy
0
bill_vincent
16 years ago
Allergies...yeah, that's it...I'm allergic to gypsum!
0
MongoCT
16 years ago
Honest Bill...it's something like that! Yeah, that's the ticket!

rob333, a couple of things...first, great kudos to all for the work. Can I add a couple of pointers?

Electrical...when wrapping wires around the screws on switches of outlets, wrap the wire clockwise around the screw's post when you are looking at the top of the screw head. That way when you tighten the screw, the clockwise rotation of the tightening screw pulls the wire tight to the screw post, keeping it under the screw head. If you wrap the wire counterclockwise then tighten the screw clockwise, sometimes the rotation of the screw head can open up the "U" in the wire, resulting in a less secure bond at the screw terminal.

Plumbing...they have small asbestos cloth pads, about 12" square or so. I've seen them at home depot. You can put the pad between your plumbing and the wood framing, so when you sweat the joint you don't char the wood framing.

Also, after soldering, you can wipe the joint with a cloth. Careful you don't burn yourself, and careful you don't jar the freshly soldered joint, it's just a light wipe. It cleans off the excess solder and flux, which gives you a cleaner sweated joint. Flux left on a joint can cause long-term corrosion and oxidation at the soldered fitting.

Neater work will also earn you points with the local building inspector. ;)

Not meaning to be critical, just trying to help you and others improve their methods of work.

And kudos to your son for recycling all that wood.

Best,
Mongo
0
rob333 (zone 7b)
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks for the pointers! I'll pass them along to the wire twisting, wood charring guy. He's still learning. I'm just glad he's a go-getter, even if he's hard headed. Yes, we're teaching the little fella how to do what we do, and recycling is the best way to do it. Our w/d closet plumbing is completely made of leftovers from the "old" bathroom.
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arleneb
16 years ago
Love the bathroom . . . just bought the same slate 4x4s for our master bath shower floor . . .
0
bluekitobsessed
16 years ago
Beautiful! I have wall mount faucet envy! Details please :)
0
rob333 (zone 7b)
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks hostagrams. I love the tile so much... I bought vinyl tiles that look exactly like it for the w/d closet.

blue, YOU? are complimenting me? Wow. I am honored. I love your taste and vision. The sink bracket is this one, and the bowl is this one, I think. Is this what you wanted? Danggit! Did you see the price on that bracket? I think we paid triple that. Shoot.
0

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