Just an FYI Linda, the heat "mats" come in various lengths and widths with the wires "woven" through them. The wires are evenly spaced out. It's rather easy to cut the mesh "mat" and not cut the wires (usually 4 to 6 inches between the wires or something like that). Once cut, you can turn the mats to fit small spaces. We've used it in our small master bath, in our very large den (26 x 26) and in our super small spare bath. In the small bath, I used one small mat and cut and turned it to fit myself and it was very easy. Using an electric staple gun made it very easy to stretch and put down the mat and hold it securely. Once it was down to my satisfaction (I put it where I thought my feet would be the most often -- front of the tub, front of the vanity, and front of the toilet), I poured some laticrete self-leveling cement over it. It really was not a requirement for SunTouch heating, but it did make it much easier to tile the floor over it, rather than troweling directly over the wires. Plus, it was cheap, it only takes about 4 hours for the self-leveling cement to dry, and it gives you a really good level surface for tiling. That was a plus for me since I'm an amateur at best. I also have pictures I took of my heat mat installation for the den. Self-leveling cement was not used there. We have the programmable thermostat in all the rooms we used it in as well. That way, it comes on when we want it (shower time, etc). We keep ours set at about 90 degrees. The cost has been hardly noticeable. We've had ours installed for about 3 years now and everyone RAVES over it who visits. Bear in mind though, its not designed to heat your room -- just your feet. However, in a small bath, once my feet are warm, I find the rest of me does just fine. We have central heat in our den, but not the bathrooms. Suntouch also has a "cost calculator" on their site to help you determine how much it will cost you per month for heating your space. You just need the room dimensions and cost per kilowat hour for your area. I called our electric company to find out our cost. I think it was something like $2 per month for us. By the way, that's a phone cord stretched across the room during the remodel, and a piece of cardboard toward the bottom for walking on the mat.

Maren- The answer to your question depends on how your house is built. If the garage is not heated, what you need to do is insulate any shared walls it has with the living space. If it's unheated and you only insulate exterior walls of the garage, then heat from the interior makes its way to the garage and is costing you money; exterior wall insulation in the garage slows that heat and money loss down some, but you are still unnecessarily using the heat you want to keep in the living space to heat the garage. Basically imagine your house without the garage: the walls, floor and ceiling that remain are the areas you want to insulate. You want to create an "envelope" that surrounds all sides of the living areas that you want to keep warm. Does that make sense?

Order 220V product from Nuheat or any other electric heat cable provider. They all have 220V product; and it is more efficient than 110V product. if you had to supply 110V to heat the floor, it would not be a bad thing or a big loss. HTH David

Forgive my spelling! My fingers were resting on the wrong keys. That should say Recipe of the Day.