Our 4 yr old Delta (model# 132900 ) works as you describe. It is stamped "Delta" on the trim plate and the handle, and the trim plate screw holes are at 1:00 and 7:00 (actually closer to 2:00 and 8:00, but not quite.) Anyway, I would suggest taking both the trim plate and the handle off and take them with you to a big box store to match them up. The key is matching the holes on the trim plate, as well as the turning "stops" on the backside of the handle (so take the handle out of the package and look at the back of it closely). If they don't match, try a real plumbing supply, since the trim plate holes and stops can be different even for the same brands. This is how it is with Moen. Sometimes I buy a trim kit from a plumbing supply, other times the big box version, and sometimes I even have to parts from each place to freshen up a bathroom. (If I want a shiny new Moen tub spout, it's almost the same cost at my local plumbing supply to buy the entire trim kit vs. the spout by itself.) Good luck.

I'm pretty positive not. There are only 11 units; only 9 resident families (one's a duplex; one's empty). There's no room in the units to be installing devices; it's pretty tight. My big question isn't really "what's causing this?" bcs I'm pretty sure the plumber will figure it out. (I think it's a check-valve that has gone bad; we had the same problem 10 years ago when the plumber put in new water heaters & put the valve in backwards. He fixed that--but this problem is SO much like it, that's my theory--a failing check valve) But I'm just wondering--does it really matter whether you turn the shower diverter down AFTER you turn off the faucet at the handles, or BEFORE? I always thought it didn't matter, and I'd like to confirm it.

This handle can be re-attached with rivets. Solid, tubular (eyelets), or semi-tubular rivets may be used. I recommend the solid or semi-tubular type. However, the semi-tubular type must be of proper lenght to work right. If you do not have such, choose solid. Heading a solid rivet requires more peening, but it is the most simple rivet and is strong. Solid rivets can be cut to length as required. The cut end does not have to be pretty since it is going to be hammered over. Rivet materials: Do not use steel. Corrosion is a problem. Since the colander is made of stainless (probably the 400 series), a soft stainless rivet is good, but you may not be able to find one to suit. Other rivet materials are aluminum and brass. Aluninum is corrosion resistant due to an oxide film on it; Aluminum in contact with stainless may sacificially corrode and fail. This leaves brass. Select the rivets and drill holes: Two holes at each end of the handle. Dry fit the parts to insure that everything is ready. Joint sealer: A joint sealer is recommended. Mix up some clear to light colored epoxy for this. Put some epoxy in the joint and on the rivet. The object is to seal the joint and rivet holes. The sealer keeps water and crud from collecting in the joint, and reduces potential for toxins (from bacteria). After the handle is tightly riveted, wipe off the excess epoxy with paper toweling. After the epoxy has well set, the colander is ready for use. you may consider tagging the colander with the message, "Do not use in oven". I don't know why one would put a colander in the oven, or any other very hot place, but such a reminder is a good precaution. Many 5-minute epoxies soften at 150 F and melts with a little more temperature. Epoxies resistant to higher temperatures usually require longer setting times, some running more than an hour. But these epoxies can fail at 350 F. The best policy to preserve your good repair is to not heat it to high temperature and smoke the adhesive. A weather sealed joint can last the lifetime of the item.

I would rough up the backer with a grinder (or just put some notches in it), then use thinset one more time. You'll have more surface area that way, and it will be "cleaner" so the thinset adheres. I'd probably replace the soapdish, too, since they're cheap and will give you a clean surface w/ more space for the thinset. After it cures, seal the perimeter with adhesive caulk. This post was edited by homebound on Mon, Jun 3, 13 at 9:34