Maybe related or can point you in the right direction. I recently visited an area resort on Cape Cod where a golf course was being renovated. On a tour of the facility I asked why there was so much sand being put down and where the loam or topsil was. They put down atleast 8" of a 80% sand and 20% seed mix...and no loam or soil! Pretty sure it was rolled out. They were planting bent grass (tee boxes, fairways, greens) and bluegrass on the first cut. True they have drainage and irrigation, but I was surprised they were using a mix with primarily sand.

In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process There are three things you have to do to get emails sent to you when someone posts to a thread you started: Be sure you have a valid/current email address in your profile Again in your profile, be sure you have the "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked (at the bottom of the profile page) Be sure to check the box labeled "Check here if you would like copies of follow-ups to your message emailed to you" when you submit your post. (Below the "Message" box) Hmmm...maybe a 4th step...don't forget to "Save Your Member Profile" when you make changes! (button at bottom of profile page) If you do all 3 (or 4!) things, you should get an email when someone posts to your message. Note: Some members have said they still have problems getting emails. I seem to always get emails, but I have noticed that occasionally there will be a several hour delay and once there was a several day delay...I don't know why. Also, check your Junk Mail, sometimes the emails end up there. Add "gardenweb_user@gardenweb.com" to your "safe senders" list as well. If you still don't get emails, check with your internet service provider and be sure emails from GW are not being filtered out as junk before they get to you.

Misting succulents every week as a general advice is not very helpful -:( - not your fault but store employee. It needs to be in container with drainage holes (I can't tell if yours has them or not). It should be potted in fast draining mix - what I see looks like peat with very little perlite in it. Simple and better mix you can make is 50/50 mix of Cactus & Succulent soil and sifted/rinsed perlite. It should be watered when potting mix is almost completely dry - use bamboo skewer or chopstick to check it. It needs as much light as possible but should be acclimatized to it if it was in darker spot. This is what just about all succulents need.