I haven't wrapped azaleas yet because they rooted as easily as the hibiscus, the same way I rooted hibiscus. I have wrapped lilac and it callused. So far, there are still four pieces of lilac pushing new growth, but no visible roots in their pots. They're fresh and appear to be growing. I won't know for a while if it's going to work. Laurus noblis hasn't callused, but it also isn't deteriorating once planted (three weeks). I did the azalea out of curiosity, using various size and thickness cuttings. They took easily. I don't know if they flowered this year or not as I really don't have anywhere suitable to grow them except where they already grow and that's full. They were pieces which grew where I didn't want them to grow, so I tried rooting them instead of just throwing them out. They were cut in October of 2010 and rooted by spring/summer 2011. All I did for the hibiscus and azalea was to fill two gallon cans with Miracle Grow Moisture Control Potting Soil, firming it in very well by hand. I cut the various cuttings and stripped of all but the top leaves. I used Dip'n Grow diluted to between the 10 and 15X levels (probably about 12.5X), just because that "seemed" right, soaking the newly cut cuttings for about six seconds before jamming them into the moistened soil. Once all inserted, I watered a second time and left them in the shade of the house, north side, where they received strong, reflected light and all the rain which fell. It WAS a wet year and spring lasted until June. This year, there hasn't been any rain to speak of and "winter" hasn't happened. It's supposed to be nearly ninety here tomorrow. I gave away pots of hibiscus and azalea last year because they rooted SO easily. They were all varieties I already grow and I didn't need more.

I agree with Lurk. Choosing the correct orientation of the diode before you make "hard connections" can be done using a simple test light or volt meter. Here's how to do it. Connect your test light clamp lead to the battery positive post of the starter solenoid. Then, hold one lead of the diode pressed against the test light probe (so that other end of the diode becomes a "probe"). Touch the free lead of diode to the black stator wire. If the test light burns........turn the diode around because it is conducting the wrong way. The diode needs to be oriented so that current can flow "out of" the alternator windings, but not back the other way. If it is turned wrong, it is a dead short. Looking at the picture you posted I would suspect it may have been caused by someone connecting booster cables in reversed polarity, or connecting the battery backward. It may have been that the diode "innocently" became shorted of its own volition and thus got fried...........but usually what you see here is the result of human error (as described above). There is a Briggs diode part number (Briggs calls it a harness) But there is a caveat if you do that part # on YOUR application. That part comes as a "2 diode,1 input wire, 2 output wires" (red and white) configuration which allows for DC positive on the red wire for charging the battery and DC negative on the white wire for headlights. If there is no need for the white wire (no lights) you will need to tape that white wire up soundly so it can never short to ground. There seems to be a hint that Briggs made some kind of change up on the tri circuit wiring in 1988 and that might account for how come you aren't seeing a white wire on the beast. For it to be a "true DC only" system you would be looking at a RED stator wire and a RED connector on the engine side. This post was edited by mownie on Fri, May 3, 13 at 19:04

If you look at the url that provides a link, you'll see the term "a href=dskjfsdfld" and ends with the "/a" tag. I hope you understand these are surrounded by the greater than and lesser than sign (they don't show up here even when I escape them). To turn this into a photo link replace the "a href=" with "img src=", and remove the ending "/a" tag. Voila. Make sure there are no spaces around the "=" sign, and that you put the stuff after the "=" sign in double quotes. Here's a link that shows you how if I'm not clear: HERE BTW, you don't have to put in an "alt" like they do in the above link.

I wasn't going to do anything because I'm supposed to get auto updates. Ususally when I get the Updates are ready message, I check and they are already installed. Well, I just checked and I have one update necessary. I'm doing it now, hoping that nothing is wrong. It's working, but boy is it slow. I do have virus protection. More scary though - I got a message the other day that a virus was innoculated. Here's hoping nothing is wrong. I can't stand these bored techno-geeks!! With all that we could use their talents for, they choose to do this. I'm sure they could get satisfaction and more money working their talents honestly.