Light fixture over medicine cabinet
sixkeys
9 years ago
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sloyder
9 years agosixkeys
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Is mixing brushed nickel with chrome a sin?
Comments (6)I had the same dilemma. I was happy to find certain decorative items (soap pumps, cotton ball jars, etc.) that had brushed nickel tops with chrome knobs, etc. A nice way to tie the finishes together, and make it look "on purpose"....See Moretimer to control just fan or fan and lights?
Comments (6)Look at this switch from EFI. Turn the switch ON, it will turn the light and fan on. Turn the switch OFF, the light will turn off but the fan will run for a set amount of time, you set the "DELAY" so the fan can run for up to 60 minutes after the switch is turned off. If you don't want the fan to run for it's timed DELAY cycle, then cycle the switch ON then OFF and the light and fan will turn off. It also has a "VENTILATION" function that you may or may not want to use. That function turns the fan on for a set amount of time per hour. You can set it to zero. EFI also offers this switch, which is slightly different than the one above in that it doesn't have the VENTILATION function. I prefer the first switch, though I almost always have the VENTILATION function set to zero. EDIT to fix link This post was edited by mongoct on Sat, Feb 16, 13 at 0:08...See MoreOpinion on Lighting position over Medicine Cabinet
Comments (6)I think there is a range of height that the light could be mounted. Higher might cut down having you eye catching the glare of looking directly at the light bulbs. I would consider installing a second light. If you are going to have a vent fan fixture, you might want to get one that has a light and a night light which could come in handy for you. This is the one I installed recently. It's pretty quiet when the fan is running. Here is a link that might be useful: Hunter vent/light...See MorePreparing Bathroom for Tiling
Comments (5)First off, I'm a HUGE don't tear down perfectly good plaster fanatic. However, that ends at the bathroom door. The main reason is mold. Old houses don't generally have mold problems because they leak air like a seive. In modern times "air infiltration" is a dirty word (phrase?). However stopping the air infiltration, gives mold a perfect habitat to live. A nice warm, damp area with a bunch of tasty lathe to munch on. If you insist upon it, go top end ventilation with a forced 20 minute timer on the fan. Meaning don't wire the fan and light to separate switches and get a fan that runs for 20 minutes after the light switch has been turned off. There is no such thing as a water proof tile job and plaster is a sponge. The best solution is gut the whole thing and cement board all the walls. Your tile work will look much better and go up worlds easier due to the fact you are mounting them on a truely flat surface. As for the rest of the walls not being tiled, mold & mildew resistant plaster skim coat over the cement board looks and feels like the real thing. You get the same mold resistance from green board, but it just doesn't feel right. It looks like it could be a lathe and plaster wall, but as soon as you touch it you can tell it isn't. Since this is your only bath though, I'd probably settle in the middle if I were you. Remove all plaster and lathe where you are going to tile and put up cement board. It will cost you time on the front end in the demo stage, but demo is much easier than varying thinset depth to get a nice looking tile job. Patch any holes you make for plumbing/electic with cement board (if possible, depends upon the original plaster job), skim coat it, and cover it all with a high quality mold/mildew resistant paint and don't forget to a decent ventilation system....See Moremonicakm_gw
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