I was all ready to say "get the 66" tub", but if it's only for the toddlers and you never use it, a case could be made for the large sink/small tub setup. If it were for you, I'd choose a small but elegant 24" sink and go with the larger tub. Maybe it's a good idea even if it's just for the kids. Something like a vessel sink vanity (pic below) takes up only 24" of width, but has plenty of storage space, and you and everyone else who sees it will think "wow, nice sink!" instead of "gee, the sink is too small". If you're on a smaller budget, Ikea's Hollviken or sinks look and work great, and cost under $100. Another good option is a which makes the sink feel much wider than it is by extending over the toilet. Get one of these, and every time you stretch out luxuriously in your 66" tub, you'll be glad you didn't get a 30" sink....

For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

I know this is an old thread. I'm comtemplating if I want a tub at all but if I get an air or a jetted tub, if the sides have stone around, how do you reach the motor if you need a repair? Just curious if anyone has dealt with that situation. For my current outdated tub, I can reach the motor through the the cabinet; I have a cut out there. I could do the same thing. But adding a slab of quartz to a tub make for a very expensive tub. Dominique, what did you decide and are you happy with your decision?

I bought an AMERICH WRIGHT base level acrylic tub for $1,000 from a bath and kitchen store in 2017 and it is a piece of plastic. After two years It was stained, difficult to clean and never feels entirely clean, the caulk around the tub has needed replacement several times, and the Americh label partly wore off almost immediately. I never use any abrasive cleaning products (all organic). When I contacted the manufacturer they pointed out that I the care instructions said I was supposed to WAX my tub with high-quality carnauba paste type wax. Wax my tub? They also referred me to a very expensive tub cosmetic repair company. Unfortunately I removed an old enamel tub instead of refinishing it. Number 1 worst decision in my remodel after seeking lots of advice. I dream of ripping this one out and replacing it with an enamel tub. Taking a bath in an acrylic tub feels cheap even though it wasn't..