Interesting thread. I have an 11 y.o. frigidaire that has had the same issues listed in this thread. After defrosting the ice maker one too many times, we bought a new one through a parts dealer on ebay. The shape/style of the ice maker purchased after-market was a bit different, but we've had zero problems with the ice maker since (knock on wood). Also had a temporary problem with the temperature and found it to be what Kaseki mentions a few posts above. In our case, keeping the refrigerator side cool, requires keeping certain pathways free- we found those particularly to be in the back of the shelf under the ice maker on the freezer side, and on the top shelf in the fridge side- so that must be where the circulation takes place. We have to keep that middle shelf in the freezer loosely packed with nothing pressed all the way to the back, or there goes the temp in the fridge side- just the way it's designed, but sheesh. I'd be especially frustrated if I didn't have a deep freeze in the garage and depended on that freezer for more packed/long term storage. Wayne, I'd try to get the contents of the fridge and freezer down to a minimal level and away from the back of the interior-- and see if doing that allows more circulation and hence the fridge cabinet cooling to a greater extent. Also, keep in mind that if you are opening the door frequently to check the air temperature, you can get misleading readings. We used a high quality mercury thermometer placed in a glass of water in the refrigerator- this gives you an accurate reading of what the contents of your refrigerator are being kept at. This morning I had the door open for a while to clean the shelves, so the air temperature in the refrigerator had increased somewhat, but the temps of the milk/meat/etc. didn't have a chance to rise much before the cabinet cooled again.

We recently bought their latest counter depth model. We were mistakenly sent the full depth model, which we got to keep for a few weeks, so we have experience with both of the new 36" SS FD models. I intend to post a full review when I get a chance, but my short and sweet opinion is "save your money." I wish we had.

We have a single 27" Elux wave-touch, non-Icon, electric wall oven. We've used it a lot in the year since it was installed. We do NOT use the self-clean, in part because of the many warnings that it could cause failure. We had this message reinforced by a service technician who came to check on it. We thought it wasn't heating as evenly as it should. He told us we needed to pre-heat for longer than I was allowing. But he said that the self-clean cycle was too hot for the electronic panels behind the oven which aren't adequately vented. So we risked having these fail if we used the clean cycle. Some people say they have used self-clean without a problem. I want this oven to last a long time, so we clean it manually with elbow grease and Barkeeper's Friend. BTW the technician told us that the oven needs to pre-heat longer than it seems. You hear the beep that it has reached the set temperature, but the oven will cycle on and off for several minutes until the temperature stabilizes. For our oven, that means pre-heating for about 20 minutes. At that point anything that you bake or roast will cook evenly. We accept these limitations, but you may not. Other than this, the oven is just perfect. I couldn't be happier. Cheryl

Your evaporator drain line is plugged and what you are seeing is the overflow of the defrost condensate. The rear wall inside the freezer need to be removed (unplug refrig 1st) and hot water will defrost the drain. You may need to use some air pressure to clear the blockage after all the ice is melted. If your not sure you can do all this it would be wise to call for service.