The new G-E Monogram 36" induction seems to be the most powerful--with a 3700w and a 3200 watt burner. In black it comes without stainless trim, so it can be flush mounted. It should be in wide release in a month. It is also reasonably priced.

Greg

GE Profile is also making an induction cooktop available. 36" and 30". They pack the same amount of power as the Monogram but I suspect even better priced. I don't like the silver trim around most units either, but the GE's offer models with trim and all black without trim. Someone mentioned concern that they require 12" clearance underneath. The specs say that's the case unless you are installing a coordinating wall oven underneath.
I'm mighty interested in one, but a little nervous as this is the first year they are offering them-wondering if they'll have any inaugural kinks that need to be worked out.

Ditto to Moose's comments about GE.
Is it for sure there's a 12 clearance on the bottom?
Does anyone have the Kitchenaid?

happygram-if you go to the GE web-site and read the installation specs, they write that there needs to be a 12" clearance from combustable materials, but there can be less if you put a wall oven underneath as you will be needing to install some kind of heat shield in between.
The Kitchenaid looks pretty good too. Don't know what their clearance is, but the warranty seems to be marginally better than the GE's

I'm far more impressed with the GE Monogram in black without a stainless rim that can be flush-mounted to granite or whatever heat resistant countertop. The 36" KitchenAid has 9 levels on each burner: 1 x 1,400 watts, 2 x 1800 watts, 1 x 2,200 watts, and 1 x 1,800/boosted to 3,600 watts. This is a poor comparison next to the G-E Monogram which has 19 levels on each burner: 1 x 1800 watts, 2 x 2500 watts, 1 x 3200 watts, and 1 x 3700 watts (11").

The GE, like most induction units (and certainly all anywhere near as powerful as this one) require air to keep the components cool. They say this doesn't have to be 12", but it has to be 12" from any flammable surface or items. That is why they say you can install this induction unit over a GE single oven--as the top of the oven isn't flammable. I'll just store lots of pots and pans under the cabinet, as they certainly aren't flammable. Or anyone else could put an insulating shelf about 4" below the bottom of the lowest components to insure enough air to cool. Then you can put whatever you want underneath.

Heck, I'll buy a 3 or 5 year warranty with the unit and it will still be far cheaper than Vikings and Wolfs, and others. I think I saw a 5 year $99 warranty for the GE's. That seems too cheap to not be a missprint:-)

GE has been in the induction business before--they are hardly a newcomer. I guarantee they have far more knowledge on induction units than most manufacturers, plus they have a huge American Service department. The only unit I find competitive with the GE (mind you, this is based on specs and feauturesets) is the DeDietrich DTI909X. As DD is usually considered the flagship of the Fagor/Brandt Group I would be very confident, except for the fact that it isn't made for the American market or doesn't have an American repair service system in place, has no UL approval, and might be very difficult to get a warranty. Also the DD has stainless trim. It's burner configuration and power is basically identical to the GE. Makes me think that GE used the 909X as its template for making a top drawer induction unit. Who knows, GE might have bought the same induction burners using Fagor/Brandt as a source. This is just a guess. But it seems their power sharing pattern is identical with the major differences being 15 levels on the DD and 19 on the GE and stainless trim on the DD black and no stainless on the Monogram black--but stainless on the Profile black. And stainless on both the Profile and Mongram stainless tops (which makes sense).

I haven't drilled deep enough into the GE brochures to know whether their timers are all individual, like the DD.

In sum, these two models that are currently available strike me as the gold standards on paper that are currently available.

I'm putting in a mostly Thermador kitchen, but I don't think the more expensive Thermador induction unit is close to being the equal of the GE Monogram, Profile, or DD DTI909X.

And the GE's and DD are very reasonably priced for 36" induction units and are screaming bargains compared to the more expensive and less-featured and lower-powered big name brands--from Viking, Wolf, Thermador, etc.

Greg

I just installed the Thermador induction cooktop. (30 inch)
It is a convenient to operate unit, looks good, and seems to perform well. (3days history)
One problem that I did have is the so-called "heat shield" that Thermador requires to be installed on the bottom of the cooktop. It takes the cooktop from being a normal 3.3 inches deep to 5.6 inches deep. wiping out the drawer beneath it. When I looked to see if this was a Thermador only design flaw, I found that most of the induction cooktops require some heat shield or ventilation space. I sent an Email with my disappointment and a couple of questions to Thermador. (no response yet)
The KitchenAid induction cooktop that is pictured in the KitchenAid installation manual has the IDENTICAL bottom configuration as the Thermador, with EXACTLY the same heat shield and requirements. The GE required 8 inches of space, and several others had other requirements. The Fagor was the only one that did not have any requirements of this sort, and it was only 2 inches deep. Even though I installed Thermador in the rest of the kitchen, I am not sure that I would have purchased their induction cooktop, had I known of this restriction.

I have contemplated mounting the heat sheild to the drawer so that it accomplishes what it does mounted to the cooktop. But I want to find out a little more before I do that.

Hope this is helpful.
Carguy

The GE installation instructions say that there needs to be a 12" clearance from combustable materials, it also states that if there is a drawer below the cooktop dishtowels or other combustable materials should not be stored there. I was hoping to have a drawer for spatulas and other utensils?

tucgran
I also have a drawer beneath the cooktop, but it's hard to imagine that utensils are combustible. That's all I'd like to put beneath the unit.
Does that seem OK to do???

Your drawer is made of wood--that is potentially combustible, particularly if it is a shallow drawer. If it is a 12" deep drawer there would be no problems, as long as you don't put combuistibles or meltables in the drawer. I doubt anything bad would happen, but if I were building or remodelling I would put a cabinet under the cooktop. Heck, I might even put a cabinet in if I already had drawers there. You can install pull-out metal sliding baskets underneath, put an insulating metal plate 4-6" below the induction unit, or use the whole cabinet area to store pots and pans.

Personally I would rather compromise on any drawers beneath the cooktop than compromise on my cooking unit.

Greg

Well now, here's a question that just occurred to me. If I don't get an answer I may have to start a new thread. Induction has become quite an attractive feature for our new kitchen. Part of the beauty of induction, I keep reading, is that as a part of it's energy efficiency, only the pan is heated, the cooktop stays relatively cool, contributing to a cooler kitchen in the summer. But I also read that the unit heats up while cooking and needs to have clearance underneath to cool it. How much heat is produced by the unit and do you markedly feel it while you are cooking?

Having used gas, electric, and induction, I feel much less heat when cooking with induction. The induction unit only heats up significantly when you are on boost or very high power for a long time. The reason being that if you are cooking at 3,500 watts for 20 minutes the heat from the pan gradually starts heating the ceramic top. But if you heat a ceramic topped electric at its highest level, which would probably be around 2500 watts at best, between the inefficiency of heating the pot/panand a lot of the lost heat heating the surrounding air and ceramic top, it will get far hotter and much more dangerous for stray hands even within a foot of the burner. Gas rangetops or cooktops at 15000 BTU's or more will heat a ton of air when set on high and will similarly heat up the surrounding grates, which are meant to be conductive.

Operating under similar circumstances the induction is many times cooler. The main difference is that the magnetic induction burners need from 2"-5" of free air underneath to keep them sufficiently cooled, particularly if you are using powerboost and ultra high setiings for a long period. Most people never use the powerboost or ultra high settings for very long as most food would get burnt to a crisp. The longest one might use the powerboost or ultra high settings is to bring a large stock pot to boil and after it reaches boil you would back down to simmer, which on a good induction unit is far easier to do than on gas or electric.

Gasis particularly difficult to set at an accurate simmer.

Greg

Thanks Oskiebabu for ALL your information. Makes me feel more positive about considering a GE Profile(I'd probably consider the Monogram too, but I suspect it will cost more for the same product). I'll have to go ask the store I'm planning to get one at if they offer the extended warranty that you were talking about. I don't know yet if those things work the same in Canada-I've never had to do it before.

Thanks you all so much for the great great info -- I didn't realize GE even made and induction and now I think I am going to buy one!! I will investigate the Profile vs. Monogram question, and the clearance issue -- at Lowes website, the "Product Measuring Guide" for the Profile (appears to be a GE publication) says 5" clearance from combustible materials, which plus the 3.25" height of the unit, puts the total at 8.25" from the top of the counter to any combustible materials. I too am planning to have a drawer full of pots/pans under the cooktop, so not a big deal -- just don't want to lose a drawer or anything. BTW, price at Lowes on the 36" Profile is $2349 -- a great price, if the Profile really is equivalent to the Monogram.

Outonalimb-let me know what you decide on after you've seen both and why.

I am going to start a new thread because this really has become a GE discussion -- see that new thread for my comments about GE's clearances.

moose 2007 -- I will definitely let you know what I end up doing. Right now, I am pretty much just tearing hair from head ; )

It will definitely be induction, just trying to figure out which one -- never thought it would be this hard, or time-consuming!

I have a new Kitchen Aid Induction Cooktop. I have the 30" size. I love love love it! What a joy to cook with! My only question is this...I have a stainless double griddle. I read somewhere that unless there is a "bridge" this could damage the cook top...does anyone know?