Alot of people will laugh and skoff at this -- but here goes anyway! I have done this on several pieces of furniture-- It does work. Once you have the glove drawers totally finish free--Raw wood- Carefully take the tops off -- Take your time -- they may be screwed, nailed, tacked, or glued. Any combo of these may be present. If this scares you may need to talk to a "in-person" restorer. Just remember they were in pieces once -- and with care they can be disassembled. Once you have the CLEAN/FINISH-free tops. You can actually lay them on the warm grass with the bow up -- put a heavy object on top and check them often and do not leave them out in the rain -- only warm sunny days work here. I have done 2 dropleaf walnut table sides this way. Trouble is that walnut in particular will actually bow the opposite way if you leave it out too long. Been there done that!! Once it is flat again -- bring it in out of the sun and moisture (which comes out of the ground (unless you live in a desert)). AS soon as you can --- seal ( with finish of your choice) BOTH SIDES of the wood. I know Im am risking all sorts of doubters here -- but I have done this at least 4-5 times on various parts and pieces. Sometimes it has taken two days in the sun out on my (flat space) lawn. Only walnut has reversed its warp by leaving out too long.I just turned the part over and did it over while watching it closer. Oak seemed to unwarp and stay where it should. Good luck -- I know this sounds overly simplistic -- but IT WORKS!!

Hi Mojo, I think the confusion over the spam issue is simply that the link goes to a site where, at least, I am not seeing the dresser you're talking about. It's a main web site page, and I even tried digging around but couldn't find furniture on it. (It's early and maybe my coffee hasn't kicked in, but...) So I think that might be why folks are interpreting your message differently than you intended. I honestly don't know how a curved dresser would look with straight wicker baskets in it. It might be worth an investment of one inexpensive one to give it a try. --Jenn

An excellent topcoat in a wet environment is Waterlox - DIY friendly, easy to repair, and has excellent water resistance. Bleed through is usually found with those deep red stains usually found on Mahogany. Shellac is a good barrier to prevent/minimize that. Likely not necessary on the piece you show but no harm in doing it. Caveat there though is the shellac in the can is not de-waxed and may affect your choice of top coat. As for staining the body darker to match the top - probably not necessary. The little bit of color that will peek through after you distress will not appear that much different - and as stated above a bit of dark wax can even it up if it is that noticeable to you. A little dark wax goes a long way so use with a light hand. As for the underside of the top - use a sanding sponge to get under there - easiest if you flip the piece over and work that way. You may not need stain under there but you will want your topcoat to cover it. Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox

Heat and moisture will loosen hide glue so dis-assemble the whole thing,refit/tighten joints and use nothing other than hide glue(including veneer) to re-assemble. Why hide? Because moisture and water will alow joints be separated if needed later on. IDK what to do with finish either,your call. Good luck and post pics when you are done.