LEDs are a joke. They work, but you might as well use spiral florescents, which give you more light for about 1/10th the cost if you build them yourself. Your tent is 4x4x6= 96 cubic feet. Your exhaust blower moves that much air in 24 seconds. You'd be fine with a tiny computer fan instead of your big blower. I would just add more light, which would make more heat, and then you could put that blower to use. And you don't need both an intake and an exhaust fan. One of them can be passive, which means just a hole. Air pressure will make fresh air find a way inside the tent if you are actively exhausting. For most people, if you have access to fresh air at all, CO2 will be a waste of time. That CO2 generating bag thing would be most useful if you had everything sealed up in a closet and were not able to ventilate with fresh air. But it's tricky, because you don't know the CO2 level of the air without a meter ($500 US last I checked), and too much is bad. If I were you, I would lose the CO2 bag, add more light, and run a smaller blower constantly to regulate temperature. Stanley makes a variable speed floor blower and sells it at Wal-Mart for $40. I think the 3 cfm settings are 90,120, and 250. Also, 4" ducting would be plenty, rather than the 6".

HVAC is not my trade. The pros hopefully will weigh in on this one as well as the amateurs. The cooler air will actually have less moisture. Only more cooling in the ducts would cause condensation in the ducts. Your idea is so complex as to be unworkable. The systems I have seen have both sets of coils in the air handler plenum. The plenum heating coils get heat only when the circulating pump runs-- and that pump is controlled by the room thermostat.

Checking for the Proper Lubrication Larger ceiling fans use oil contained in a reservoir that lubricates the bearing. A small hole located in the upper part of the motor housing allows for additional oil to be added to the fan when needed. Normally the hole is marked "add oil" by the manufacturer. Put plastic sheeting below the fan to avoid any oil getting on furniture or carpet and using a step ladder locate the "add oil" hole. Start off spraying a little light oil into the hole and let the fan run for 20 minutes. Then stop the fan and add ceiling fan oil until the reservoir overflows slightly. This will normally be SAE 15 or SAE 10 oil. Wipe the fan housing off to avoid any drips. Some fans are made with permanently lubricated sealed bearings and oil cannot be added. Make sure you know whether your fan has an oil reservoir by consulting your manual or the manufacturer. Balancing for Improved Operation Poorly balanced blades can cause wobble that results in slower-than-normal operation. To check the balance, you should measure from the tip of each blade to the ceiling with the fan turned off. Each blade tip should be the same distance to the ceiling if the ceiling is level. If there is more than 1/4 of an inch difference, the blades are out of balance. Tape a standard metal washer or coin to the top side of the blade that is closest to the ceiling. Make sure the top of the blade is clean of dust and use about 3 inches of tape to make sure the washer stays in place. Experiment with washers on various blades until all of the blades are level with each other and the ceiling. If your ceiling is sloped or otherwise unlevel, use a building level to measure levelness between the blades. https://www.heating-air-conditioning.net/ Identifying a Defective Capacitor Ceiling fans are single phase motors and rely on capacitors to start and run. Some fans have a combination start-stop capacitor and some have a capacitor for each. Other fans use multiple capacitors for speed changes. In your breaker box, flip the breaker that powers your fan to the "off" position. Use a stepladder and remove the lower cap on the fan that usually houses the capacitors. While the disassembly process is slightly different on various fans, the capacitors are easy to identify. They are small black cubes or silver cylinders and will have a micro farad rating printed on the side. The capacitor rating will be a number followed by the letters "uf." Look for any distortion in the cube or cylinder indicating capacitor failure and replace any that are discolored or swollen. The capacitors are either connected to screw terminals or have wire nuts connecting them to other wires. Disconnect the suspect capacitor and use the information on the label to obtain the correct replacement. https://www.cooling-heating.net/ Inspecting the Motor for a Damaged Winding Partially shorted windings are the final possibility that could cause a slow-running fan. Windings are sometimes damaged when a start capacitor fails causing the fan to stall and heat the coils beyond their limits. To check for winding failures the fan must be removed and completely disassembled. Visually inspect the windings for heat discoloration or any burn marks. If the copper is badly discolored by heat, replace the motor and associated capacitors.

I’ve just installed an Ortal 130 linear fireplace (double glass), and love how it came out. My only concern is that the fan noise is a little too loud, and I haven’t figured out how to adjust it down using the remote control. The fan runs at constant high speed regardless of how I set it on the remote. Perhaps this functionality is lacking from the 130, or perhaps I’m just overlooking something. Does anyone on this forum have any advice? I reached out to Ortal USA, but have not gotten any response...